S2S WHITE
GRAPHITE WOOD & IRON SHAFTS
Designed for the widest range of golfers with average swing characteristics…
Features:
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- S2S White is Wishon Golf’s most popular shaft for golfers with average swing characteristics: ideal for golfers with smooth to average tempo and average strength
- S2S White retains its popular bend profile design for average golfers, designed with a slightly stiffer lower tip section to offer more control through impact for tighter dispersion
- S2S White hybrid shafts are for average ability golfers who need a lighter weight hybrid shaft
- S2S White is Wishon Golf’s most popular shaft for golfers with average swing characteristics: ideal for golfers with smooth to average tempo and average strength
© COPYRIGHT 2024 WISHON GOLF
Tom, could you provide an update on the expected date for release your new steel shafts Thanks.
Ray
Ray,
Thank you very much for your message.
I can confirm the new ‘Wishon Steel’ shafts are available now.
Please see the link for additional information:
https://wishongolf.com/wishon-steel-shafts/
Many thanks,
David
Tom – reading a few of your replies below about aging and shaft weight / head weight / flex… I see where you mention you feel, literally, that swing weight is more important than shaft weight? That would explain my recent lead tape frenzy (btw is that stuff gonna kill me?) If I understand correctly then maybe it IS reasonable (holding off on total refit) to slap lead tape on to increase feel of loading/slot/head position not despite but BECAUSE I’m aging? i.e. is slowing swing speed and/or temp making me feel like I’m not loading the shaft enough at… Read more »
JON The problem with swingweight is that it is too easy to get trapped into thinking that one particular swingweight measurement is going to be right for the golfer for every club he may play. If a golfer has a club that feels great and he likes everything about its weight feel during the swing, it is wrong to record that club’s swingweight and then duplicate that on any club the golfer may buy in the future. If the length or shaft weight or grip weight and sometimes even the shaft weight distribution is different in a different club from… Read more »
“Hope this helps“ – and then some, cheers!
hey Tom. 32 years old and have purchased some tom wishon Irons575 mmc. they have the white s2s graphite shafts. I’m wondering do I need to be over the age of 50 to be using these shafts or could they possibly suit me
Matthew
The S2S White shafts are for average to slightly better than average swing move players with their tip medium firm design. Only if you happened to be very aggressive with the downswing with a very late release would you tend to feel the White shafts be a little on the tip soft side.
TOM
Tom it seems not too long ago I was hitting my 7 iron 175 yards with a slight draw. I guess Father Time has said it is time to have a reality check. That 7 iron has turned into a 7 wood and that is with some roll out. I have been looking at two choices both in graphite the White in a regular flex and the Blue in a regular flex. The balance points are fairly close with the biggest spec being the weight of the shafts. You probably have played both and it is my bet you’re probably… Read more »
ROG Having just turned “even par” 72 last week, I hear what you are saying. You know the really crappy thing about Father Time is that he is undefeated, a record that will not likely change! Having experienced the bulk of my golf playing decline over the past two years, I have found for me anyway, that the headweight feel (swingweight) is more important for achieving a weight feel that is comfortable for my current physical prowess (or lack thereof!) than the shaft weight. I play the White, in R, but recently shifted the swingweight down to C9 to get… Read more »
Thanks Tom for the reply. I was going back and forth on those shafts and I thought maybe a strength issue as we age or just getting tired at the end of a round might be a factor. The tempo aspect is a great point because if you lose your rhythm you might get too quick.
ROG No question if you are talking about whether the difference in total weight feel between a 100+ gram shaft and a 55-65g shaft is noticeable, the answer is yes, certainly. But when talking about the difference in total weight between a 55 and 65 or even 70 gram shaft, that is much more subtle. The body tends to get used to a change in total weight very quickly such that the lightness you may feel immediately from switching from a 100g shaft to a 65g shaft tends to be “absorbed” in essence by the body. On the other hand,… Read more »
I have been improving a lot and actually managed to break my driver shaft at the handle which suggests to me I might need a stiffer shaft. In your experience is there a shaft you would recommend for somebody who has arthritis in their hands and wants the least vibration on mishits.
IAN 98% of the time a break of the shaft in the grip indicates some sort of defect in the shaft. Breaking a shaft in the grip end when there is no defect truly requires an amazingly strong and powerful initial move to start the downswing, a move that is closer to what a long drive guy with a short backswing would have. Regular players with normal swing speeds never break shafts in the grip end unless there is some4 defect or accidental damage to the shaft in that area. Shaft fitting for flex is all about evaluating the swing… Read more »
Hello. A customer wanted me to replace the shafts on older 721 li hybrids. Two were shafted in R flex Series 5 steel .335 Bend Profile Engineering shafts, and one in a gi335 graphite high launch, R flex. He liked the feel of the shafts and flight profile was what he wanted: relatively high but not ballooning. Problem was the R flex was too soft for him and he felt he needed to slow/delay his release. A stiff flex would appear better and his specs matched the S2S black in S flex very well: 87-91 mph 5 iron speed, slight… Read more »
Chris The Black hybrid shafts are stiffer in the tip than the old GI335 so that may very well be the reason he not only does not like the Black compared to the old GI335, but also why the shot pattern is lower. Closest to the old GI335 in the current shaft design line would be the White. That would drop the tip stiffness down a good bit. As to the steel, the old Series 5 went away a long time ago. Problem is that since we lost the vendor that made the latest steel iron shafts, we do not… Read more »
Hello Tom, I hope you are doing well.
I have been playing for years with the GF YS-6 70grams Stiff shaft in my driver. I have tried several shafts with not the same results. Apparently, the way that it bends and its weight helps me to hit the ball straight and around 250y carry with mu Mavrik SZ 9 degrees). Do you have any shaft that could match the GD YS-6 feeling and performance?
Best Regards
Patricio
Patricio
From my old data base on shafts, the Aldila NVS65-S and the UST ProForce V2-65-S are very close to the Graphite Design YS-6-S shaft. Among my shafts, the S2S Black 65 S would be the closest match to the YS6-S.
TOM
TOM, I HOPE ALL IS WELL WITH YOU AND YOUR’S,
A question regarding the White driver shafts. If an A flex White was tipped 1 1/2″ for a 44″ build with a 919 11* head would that put it somewhere between an A and R flex or only effect the tip feel not the whole shaft?
Thank you in advance
Stay Well
JoeWillie
JoeWillie
1.5″ additional tipping of the White A would make it very close to the same flex and tip section feel of the White R. When you tip a shaft you not only increase the butt stiffness (flex) but you also increase the tip stiffness.
TOM
Tom, how does the S2S White Hybrid Lite R flex shaft compare to the older GI 335 R flex shaft? Is the White Hybrid Lite shaft still available?
TOM I am guilty of a fading memory thanks to Father Time (!!) but I don;t remember us every referring to the lighter version of the White shafts as Lite. We did do a heavier weight version for a few years in the wood shaft to give clubmakers an option in the White shaft for players who do better with a little higher total weight. But the normal White shafts were not really referred to as Lite from what I recall. At any rate, the White hybrid shaft as it is now and as it has always been is very… Read more »
Tom have the 870 ti irons now going on 8 years, thinking of new set and was wondering what you might recommend. have tried several oof friends clubs and they have made some improvment as time has passed the TM simms feel very sweet and forgiving the mizuno clubs all feel great. newer clubs as in drivers have increased distance and forgivness. my 870 have been good but time to move on
Don Thanks very much for taking the time to stop by to ask for a little help. And thanks too for being a long time player with what still stands as one of the very best irons from a performance engineering side that I ever had the fun to create. The only reason any iron might out perform the 870s today is because the average loft on irons today is approaching being a full club lower than it was back when I designed the 870s. So if you hit a modern 7 iron and hit it longer than the 870s,… Read more »
Thanks for the advice. I had my 870 set tested for lie, loft.the lies were ofrf for me as I am now 78 and things change..7 iron is now 32. I am averaging 135 with it and my shot on club face is all bunched together..using white s2s if I remember correct..3 and 5 wood ar eyours as well. now using Mizuno st200 driver works like butter..yes the stronger loft clubs give a lot of my friends a good feel I wish clubs just had loft on sole not a number that means nothing..maybe I should just regrip again..after all… Read more »
Dear Tom, it is so great that you answer all this questions. So maybe you could help me with mine. I struggle with an open face at impact with my woods and hybrids and was wondering if a different shaft could help. I am playing only a few years but thanks to a fitted set of Sterling SL my swing gets more and more consistent. Got S2S Black shafts on my irons and S2S White on my hybrids and woods. Clubhead speed with my irons is around 80, got an aggressive swing with a mid release. Because I do not… Read more »
Christian The most probable reasons for a change in clubs to bring about a reduction in a slice or push are, 1) the head on the new wood has a more close face angle than that on the wood with which you slice the ball. You can get a feel for this by looking VERY CAREFULLY at how the face points when you sole the head on the ground in the address position with both woods. 2) The total weight of the new wood is different, either demonstrably more heavy or light, which may have an effect on when you… Read more »
Shaft flex on driver and fairway woods makes a huge difference for me. I get tuned in to the feel of the shaft kicking during the downswing, and my accuracy really suffers if I have to use something different. Fortunately you have found a setup that works, so you could just go with that and be happy. If you absolutely must break down the factors, you could start with that known-working case and start varying things to see what happens. Change the hosel setting, add or remove weight, swap out the shaft for ones with different lengths, weights, and flexes.… Read more »
Hello
Fantastic that one can ask you questions directly. I have a question about Sterling iron shafts. In the charts for choosing shaft you ask for five iron club speed. How should one think when Sterling iron clubs are a lot shorter at eight iron leangth?
LEA
There is only about a 2-3 mph difference in clubhead speed between the 5i and 8i for the vast majority of golfers so it is not significant to worry about that when using an iron speed for fitting Sterling irons’ capability for whether a golfer could use the #4 or 5 irons as part of his set. 5 iron speed is also how most shaft companies rate their flexes in terms of swing speed rating for shaft fitting so this is another reason for using a mid iron speed in fitting irons.
TOM
Tom thanks you for your reply. I have these discussions with people that own golf shops and consumers that think because they are spending 200 to 300 dollars for this premium shaft that they are getting the “perfect” shaft. I am so happy that u=you addressed this. I think the golf IQ needs this info and I can’t think of anyone better than you to explain it.
ROGER Well, it is actually very simple, but the power of marketing is so strong that no matter what, people are always going to believe that if it costs more, it has to be better. There are 4 things only that determine how any shaft will play for any golfer – shaft weight, the bend profile stiffness design over the whole length of the shaft from butt to tip, the torsional stiffness AKA the “torque”, and the weight distribution of the shaft which is other wise called the balance point. That’s it. Nothing else they talk about in a shaft… Read more »
I’m beginning to think that Mr. Wishon’s shafts are among the most underappreciated products he designs. With today’s adjustable drivers and adapters it’s so easy to experiment with shafts, but not very affordable for those with modest means. The S2S shafts (with their modest price), are an exception.
I ordered an S2S white shaft to try in a Cobra Fly Z driver, and it has been far and away the best shaft I’ve experimented with and is the one I will use from here on out.
Tom some of the quote “premium shaft makers” talk about how their shafts are better for the adjustable or rotating driver heads. Can you speak to whether the placement of the shaft in the adjustable drivers has anything to do with the performance of the finished product? They will say that their shafts are not affected by the spine of the shaft and that their product is better for adjustable driver heads because the “spine affect” doesn’t bother their shafts. This seems like spin( no pun intended) but maybe you can clarify this subject. Thanks
ROGER It will probably never cease to amaze me how some companies can make up stories to verify a quality matter with their product. They can do this because 99.9% of the people they talk to/communicate with do not have a shred of technical experience to challenge them with factual information. The ONLY way that any shaft company could make a shaft so that no matter what the rotation position in the head it would never demonstrate any form of bending asymmetry is if they spent 2 or 3x as much money in the production of the shafts to painstakingly… Read more »
Hi Tom,
I know (from this thread) that the red and white lines indicate the stability plane, but I don’t know which line is which, and haven’t been able to find the info after quite a bit of searching.
My guess would be that the white line is on the stable plane and the red is orthogonal, but I’m just guessing.
Could you please clue me in on the correct installation of the shaft relative to those marks? If you have already addressed the question, a pointer to the answer would suffice.
Thanks,
Mitch
Mitch It’s easy to remember what’s what with the red and white lines on the butt of our graphite shafts. The WHITE line is the most stable plane of bending. The read line is 90* away from that to tell the painting department where to place the shaft name/logo pad printing artwork. What you want is the white line plane either pointing toward or away from the target, does not matter which, so the artwork is straight up or straight down, as per which side you want to show on the top of the shaft when the club is built.… Read more »
Thanks!
Before I was aware of the lines, I always built with artwork down, so it appears that it got it right by accident. Thanks for the attention to detail that is so evident in all your products.
Tom, I’ve been experimenting with shaft flex for my 929HS 5 wood. Right now I have the white S-flex tip trimmed 1″; length is 41″. That combo is close to what I want in feel. It may be a tad soft (maybe). I was wondering if I was to try the white R-Flex shaft and trim it between R and S if that may be better. What would the tip trim need to be for the R flex shaft to be between R and S for the 41″ length? My driver SP average is 92-95. I noticed in one of… Read more »
ORAN Technically, to be halfway in between the R and S with the White graphite wood shaft, you would first tip 1.25″ from the R. Then since you seem to like the lesser 1″ tip trim for your 5 wood (2″ is normal) for its 41″ length, you could then do 1.25″ + 1″ for a total of 2.25″ to get halfway between R and S for the 5 wood. Whether you go S and less trim or R and more trim only is determined by the length of the parallel tip section on the shaft. That’s 3.5″on all our… Read more »
Tom after a few years out of the club making business, my interest has heated up and I’ve again become a customer. I was lured into the idea of the longer driver, and after a few years of erratic driving came back to my roots. I’ve read all your books and find your science compelling. Using your White heavy, which I can’t believe is only $24, while most OEM shafts of decent quality are $150+ I re-shated my driver back to 44.25 inches, and yesterday hit the ball more consistently, father, and with more control than I have in three… Read more »
Tom,
Carter Penley talks about the importance of Tip to Butt Ratio of Shafts. Could you tell me how this applies to how you rate shafts? It seems very similar to me.
Thanks,
Alan
ALAN: Wihle I haven’t spent any time digging into any of Carter’s stuff, I am pretty sure from remembering him talking about this 20 yrs ago that what he is referring to is the progression of stiffness in a shaft from butt to tip. I.E. what we call the bend profile of a shaft and what our software charts through the data tables and the graphs it generates for all shafts in the software data base. I don;t like the term “ratio” in this because it infers thinking only about the very butt and the very tip to be able… Read more »
Dear Tom I did a try with your S2S shaft fitting program and was astonished obout the outcome. First I did a run with ratings of 2,2,2,2,driver speeed 95 mph,5 iron speed 80mph.The program recommended stiff shafts for woods+irons and regular for the hybrids. I did a second run and changed only the rating of physical strength so the rating for the second run was 2,2,2,3 and the program recommended stiff shafts for the driver and regular for the irons and the hybrids. That means according to my understanding: the higher the physical strength of a golfer the more flexibel… Read more »
HANS With over 2800 different possible combinations of the shaft fitting inputs in this program, I cannot say that I did not make any mistakes in compiling each different output for each different combination of speed, transition, tempo, release, strength. You;re absolutely right in saying that it’s not logical to see the flex drop simply from a change in the golfer strength only so that has to be a mistake I made that I thank you for catching and bringing to my attention. I do have to re-visit all of these outputs in January to make the changes necessary to… Read more »
S2S white wood shafts……I have used many different golf shafts over the years, but to date none has compared to the white S2S for consistency. A great shaft at a fair price and Tom’s shaft fitting program has been right on target.
A new client called me a few days ago, having broken the shaft of his Callaway driver. I told him not to worry, that I had a good replacement for him. The old shaft was a Fujikura, Speeder R flex, and I replaced it with a S2S Whte, R, 75-90. After his first round with the new shaft, he called me enthusiastic about the change, and said that almost all his drives found the center of the fairway.
Love ‘all’ of the S2S shaft’s, but the white has been the #1 in my shop, and the gold plus is running a close second. If you haven’t tried these, your missing something good.