S2S White Wood & Iron Shafts

S2S White Graphite Shafts for Woods and Irons

The S2S Fitting System Design for the Widest Range of Golfers with Average Swing Characteristics


  • S2S White is Wishon Golf’s most popular shaft for golfers with average swing characteristics: ideal for golfers with smooth to average tempo and average strength

  • S2S White retains its popular bend profile design for average golfers but is now designed with a slightly stiffer lower tip section to offer more control through impact for tighter dispersion


  • S2S Shaft Trim Charts



Ratings and Reviews

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Rating: 4.2/5 (52 votes cast)


S2S White Wood & Iron Shafts, 4.2 out of 5 based on 52 ratings


  1. Dear Tom, it is so great that you answer all this questions. So maybe you could help me with mine. I struggle with an open face at impact with my woods and hybrids and was wondering if a different shaft could help. I am playing only a few years but thanks to a fitted set of Sterling SL my swing gets more and more consistent. Got S2S Black shafts on my irons and S2S White on my hybrids and woods. Clubhead speed with my irons is around 80, got an aggressive swing with a mid release. Because I do not want to risk a slice from the tee my i4 is my driver. And its ok, I shot in the low 90 and my FiR is over 70%. Propably my release is just too bad. But the other day I tried a Titleist fairway wood (TS3 16.5 HZRDUS Smoke Black 70 6.0 3.5 Hosel Settings D2). Played it over 3 days for 36 holes and the ball flight was as straight as with my irons. No proplems with an open clubface at all. So now I‘m confused: What I thought was a bad release… could it just be the wrong shaft for my swing?

    • Christian
      The most probable reasons for a change in clubs to bring about a reduction in a slice or push are, 1) the head on the new wood has a more close face angle than that on the wood with which you slice the ball. You can get a feel for this by looking VERY CAREFULLY at how the face points when you sole the head on the ground in the address position with both woods. 2) The total weight of the new wood is different, either demonstrably more heavy or light, which may have an effect on when you release your wrist hinge angle on the downswing to give you more time to rotate the face around to be less open, 3) the swingweight of the new wood is different to potentially have the same effect I explained in #2 to alter your release. 4) the length of the new wood is shorter than that of the old. Shorter length can also help a player control the release better than longer length. It’s highly doubtful that the flex/bend profile of the new shaft is having this effect unless it is substantially more flexible than the shaft in the club that you struggle with. The only way you’ll know the answer is to have a VERY COMPETENT clubmaker measure ALL of the specs of the two clubs to compare them one by one.


    • Shaft flex on driver and fairway woods makes a huge difference for me. I get tuned in to the feel of the shaft kicking during the downswing, and my accuracy really suffers if I have to use something different.
      Fortunately you have found a setup that works, so you could just go with that and be happy. If you absolutely must break down the factors, you could start with that known-working case and start varying things to see what happens. Change the hosel setting, add or remove weight, swap out the shaft for ones with different lengths, weights, and flexes. This is easier than it used to be, now that shafts are not glued in, but on the other hand, shafts used to be a lot less expensive than they are now. (The glaring exception being Wishon S2S shafts, which I find to be outstanding value.)
      There are so many factors, and individuals respond differently to them, so it is really hard to reduce clubfitting to a small set of rules that always work the same way. Hence what Tom said about really competent clubmakers.

  2. Hello
    Fantastic that one can ask you questions directly. I have a question about Sterling iron shafts. In the charts for choosing shaft you ask for five iron club speed. How should one think when Sterling iron clubs are a lot shorter at eight iron leangth?

    • LEA

      There is only about a 2-3 mph difference in clubhead speed between the 5i and 8i for the vast majority of golfers so it is not significant to worry about that when using an iron speed for fitting Sterling irons’ capability for whether a golfer could use the #4 or 5 irons as part of his set. 5 iron speed is also how most shaft companies rate their flexes in terms of swing speed rating for shaft fitting so this is another reason for using a mid iron speed in fitting irons.


  3. Tom thanks you for your reply. I have these discussions with people that own golf shops and consumers that think because they are spending 200 to 300 dollars for this premium shaft that they are getting the “perfect” shaft. I am so happy that u=you addressed this. I think the golf IQ needs this info and I can’t think of anyone better than you to explain it.

    • ROGER

      Well, it is actually very simple, but the power of marketing is so strong that no matter what, people are always going to believe that if it costs more, it has to be better. There are 4 things only that determine how any shaft will play for any golfer – shaft weight, the bend profile stiffness design over the whole length of the shaft from butt to tip, the torsional stiffness AKA the “torque”, and the weight distribution of the shaft which is other wise called the balance point. That’s it. Nothing else they talk about in a shaft has any other separate effect on performance. Just these 4 things. With our bend profile software, it is easily possible to select any of the high dollar shafts and then find an exact duplicate from other companies that costs a fraction and show the measurement numbers of the high dollar and lower cost shafts side by side to prove this. But no matter what, I have seen many times that I can show a golfer this information and he still will believe the expensive one is better. Probably because he does not want to be made to feel like a complete fool for having spent $300 on a shaft.


  4. I’m beginning to think that Mr. Wishon’s shafts are among the most underappreciated products he designs. With today’s adjustable drivers and adapters it’s so easy to experiment with shafts, but not very affordable for those with modest means. The S2S shafts (with their modest price), are an exception.

    I ordered an S2S white shaft to try in a Cobra Fly Z driver, and it has been far and away the best shaft I’ve experimented with and is the one I will use from here on out.

  5. Tom some of the quote “premium shaft makers” talk about how their shafts are better for the adjustable or rotating driver heads. Can you speak to whether the placement of the shaft in the adjustable drivers has anything to do with the performance of the finished product? They will say that their shafts are not affected by the spine of the shaft and that their product is better for adjustable driver heads because the “spine affect” doesn’t bother their shafts. This seems like spin( no pun intended) but maybe you can clarify this subject. Thanks

    • ROGER
      It will probably never cease to amaze me how some companies can make up stories to verify a quality matter with their product. They can do this because 99.9% of the people they talk to/communicate with do not have a shred of technical experience to challenge them with factual information. The ONLY way that any shaft company could make a shaft so that no matter what the rotation position in the head it would never demonstrate any form of bending asymmetry is if they spent 2 or 3x as much money in the production of the shafts to painstakingly try to eliminate bending asymmetry so the shafts always had the same exact bending property no matter how you installed the shaft in the sleeve or head.

      And even that is purely theoretical. In practice no company has ever made shafts that do not have some variation in asymmetry of the bending of the shafts. You do have companies that will check every shaft in production to find a stable plane of bending or the most stable plane of bending. We do that on our S2S graphite shafts and it can be seen by the red and white lines drawn on the butt end of every one of our shafts to guide the logo position and installation.

      But once you take any shaft today and start to rotate it in the head, whether by use in a adjustable hosel sleeve or what, you do change the orientation of the different bending planes of the shaft.

      Now, all that being said, much of this matter of shaft asymmetry today is overblown and insignificant to performance. The better shaft companies today know that shafts will suffer from degrees of bending asymmetry so they do like we do and check bending planes of all shafts before painting to find a stable plane that they mark and set up their finishing so when a person installs the shaft with the logo up or logo down, the stable plane is at the target. And 98 out of 100 times today with the better shaft companies, if you did rotate the shaft to some other position, it would be highly unlikely that the slight asymmetrical bending plane that might be revealed could ever cause bad shots. It’s remotely possible, but unlikely because most of the good shaft makers do know this and do take steps in production to keep these asymmetry variations at a minimum.


    • Hi Tom,

      I know (from this thread) that the red and white lines indicate the stability plane, but I don’t know which line is which, and haven’t been able to find the info after quite a bit of searching.

      My guess would be that the white line is on the stable plane and the red is orthogonal, but I’m just guessing.

      Could you please clue me in on the correct installation of the shaft relative to those marks? If you have already addressed the question, a pointer to the answer would suffice.


    • Mitch
      It’s easy to remember what’s what with the red and white lines on the butt of our graphite shafts. The WHITE line is the most stable plane of bending. The read line is 90* away from that to tell the painting department where to place the shaft name/logo pad printing artwork. What you want is the white line plane either pointing toward or away from the target, does not matter which, so the artwork is straight up or straight down, as per which side you want to show on the top of the shaft when the club is built.

    • Thanks!

      Before I was aware of the lines, I always built with artwork down, so it appears that it got it right by accident. Thanks for the attention to detail that is so evident in all your products.

  6. Tom, I’ve been experimenting with shaft flex for my 929HS 5 wood. Right now I have the white S-flex tip trimmed 1″; length is 41″. That combo is close to what I want in feel. It may be a tad soft (maybe). I was wondering if I was to try the white R-Flex shaft and trim it between R and S if that may be better. What would the tip trim need to be for the R flex shaft to be between R and S for the 41″ length? My driver SP average is 92-95. I noticed in one of your posts that you went to R flex trimmed between R and S for a 7wd. Could you please explain what would determine whether to use S flex trimmed less or R flex trimmed more? I really appreciate and thank you for you time.

    • ORAN

      Technically, to be halfway in between the R and S with the White graphite wood shaft, you would first tip 1.25″ from the R. Then since you seem to like the lesser 1″ tip trim for your 5 wood (2″ is normal) for its 41″ length, you could then do 1.25″ + 1″ for a total of 2.25″ to get halfway between R and S for the 5 wood. Whether you go S and less trim or R and more trim only is determined by the length of the parallel tip section on the shaft. That’s 3.5″on all our wood shafts, and you have to have 30mm for bore depth insertion (1 3/16″). So a tip of 2.25″ gets close to using up all the parallel tip section. if you go much more than that, the hosel bore would have to be reamed a little bit to allow the shaft to penetrate all the way to the bottom of the bore.


  7. Tom after a few years out of the club making business, my interest has heated up and I’ve again become a customer. I was lured into the idea of the longer driver, and after a few years of erratic driving came back to my roots. I’ve read all your books and find your science compelling.

    Using your White heavy, which I can’t believe is only $24, while most OEM shafts of decent quality are $150+ I re-shated my driver back to 44.25 inches, and yesterday hit the ball more consistently, father, and with more control than I have in three years.

    What a great shaft for the price a real bargain. I could move the ball left, and right at will and swing as hard as I want all with predictable results. Great product at a great price.

  8. Tom,

    Carter Penley talks about the importance of Tip to Butt Ratio of Shafts. Could you tell me how this applies to how you rate shafts? It seems very similar to me.


    • ALAN:

      Wihle I haven’t spent any time digging into any of Carter’s stuff, I am pretty sure from remembering him talking about this 20 yrs ago that what he is referring to is the progression of stiffness in a shaft from butt to tip. I.E. what we call the bend profile of a shaft and what our software charts through the data tables and the graphs it generates for all shafts in the software data base.

      I don;t like the term “ratio” in this because it infers thinking only about the very butt and the very tip to be able to compare the two in a math/numerical ratio. That leaves out the rest of the shaft in between which most certainly can be varied in its stiffness quite dramatically – for example our S2S Red would throw a raio of butt to tip out the window because it is a very stiff butt/very soft center/very stiff tip design for its profile. to use only the butt and tip would lead you to believe the shaft is telephone pole stiff, but it is not because of the very soft center in between which mutes the stiffness of the butt and tip enough to make a huge difference in the bending feel and performance of the shaft.

      The main thing that is important in looking at any relationship of stiffness over the full length of the shaft is to know how all those different progressions of stiffness from but to center to tip do or do not match up to each golfer’s unique combination of swing speed + transition + tempo + release + strength and then any preference they may have developed/acquired for the bending feel of the shaft. This is the whole sum and substance of what we call our S2S shaft fitting system, as it is explained in brief, but with enough detail on the 4 pages that lead off the shaft section in our catalog.

  9. Dear Tom

    I did a try with your S2S shaft fitting program and was astonished obout the outcome. First I did a run with ratings of 2,2,2,2,driver speeed 95 mph,5 iron speed 80mph.The program recommended stiff shafts for woods+irons and regular for the hybrids.
    I did a second run and changed only the rating of physical strength so the rating for the second run was 2,2,2,3 and the program recommended stiff shafts for the driver and regular for the irons and the hybrids. That means according to my understanding: the higher the physical strength of a golfer the more flexibel the shafts should be. It’s my interpretation correct? Thank you for your efforts

    • HANS

      With over 2800 different possible combinations of the shaft fitting inputs in this program, I cannot say that I did not make any mistakes in compiling each different output for each different combination of speed, transition, tempo, release, strength. You;re absolutely right in saying that it’s not logical to see the flex drop simply from a change in the golfer strength only so that has to be a mistake I made that I thank you for catching and bringing to my attention. I do have to re-visit all of these outputs in January to make the changes necessary to correspond to the changes we are making for 2014 in our S2S shaft design product line. So I will make a note of your 2223 vs 2222 finding for the 95 and 80 speeds so I can correct that mistake.

      But to answer your question, I base the initial swing speed rating for our shaft designs on the actual stiffness measurements of the butt through the center to upper tip section on each shaft. In most all of the shafts I design for our company, I do set up the butt to upper tip section stiffness design so that a 95mph wood speed and 80mph iron speed would correspond to what we define as an S flex for most of our shafts.

      Hope this helps, and again, thanks for letting me know about this mistake in the program,

  10. S2S white wood shafts……I have used many different golf shafts over the years, but to date none has compared to the white S2S for consistency. A great shaft at a fair price and Tom’s shaft fitting program has been right on target.

  11. A new client called me a few days ago, having broken the shaft of his Callaway driver. I told him not to worry, that I had a good replacement for him. The old shaft was a Fujikura, Speeder R flex, and I replaced it with a S2S Whte, R, 75-90. After his first round with the new shaft, he called me enthusiastic about the change, and said that almost all his drives found the center of the fairway.

  12. Love ‘all’ of the S2S shaft’s, but the white has been the #1 in my shop, and the gold plus is running a close second. If you haven’t tried these, your missing something good.

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