919fd-main919F/D Fairway Drivers

A Superb Fitting Option for More Control on Tight Holes

The 919F/D Fairway Drivers are the answer for players looking for a high COR “mini-driver” or for a tee shot club for use on tight par-4 and par-5 holes for greater control without losing any distance normally achieved with a conventional high COR titanium driver. TWHT’s proprietary bendable hosel allows an extremely wide range in custom fitting specs for loft, lie and face angle.


  • Designed for the golfer who needs more control off the tee or wishes a much smaller size driver head
  • Thin, variable thickness, high strength steel face for high 0.830 COR for maximum distance
  • Bendable hosel for a wide range of fitting options for lie and face angle, +/-4° from spec
  • Can also be played off the fairway by more skilled players who want every bit of second shot distance on long holes
  • Available in RH in 11° and 14° lofts, cosmetically designed to complement the appearance of the 919THI Drivers


A 360º view of the 919F/D Fairway Driver Clubhead.

Ratings and Reviews

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Rating: 4.1/5 (146 votes cast)

919F/D, 4.1 out of 5 based on 146 ratings


  1. Hi Tom,

    I had a couple of questions regarding this driver head (919F/D) when compared against a 460cc driver (EG 919 THI) and was hoping you might be able to help.

    By having a smaller head size, I understand that this might give a potential advantage for good players that are capable of playing this size head from good lies on the fairway. The additional COR and potentially lower loft of this head in comparison to a 3-wood might see a distance gain in these kind of scenarios, that aid in reaching the green in 2 shots on a PAR 5.

    I was hoping though that you could give an overview of why else one would consider using a mini-driver instead of a 460cc driver.

    I often hear and read that these mini-drivers are ‘more accurate’ than 460cc drivers, and that they are well suited to narrow fairways, but what exactly is it that makes them more ‘accurate’? Is it not the case that a poor off-centre strike on a 260cc head such as this would still be an off-centre strike on a 460cc driver? And would it not be the case that by having a larger surface area, really poor strikes are likely to perform better on a 460cc head than a 260cc head?

    I thought that perhaps by ‘accuracy’ people are referring to being able to put their swing through the club and onto the ball more accurately, but again in a like-for-like comparison (EG 43″ shaft vs. 43″ shaft, similar swingweights etc) why exactly would a 260cc head be any more straightforward to put your swing through the ball accurately than a 460cc head?

    Or I was thinking it might perhaps be loft? Is it the case that people generally play a mini-driver in a higher loft than their 460cc driver, and therefore see less slice or hook spin on the ball because of the higher loft? Would this make any visual distance to people considering the minor differences in loft we would be talking about?

    Sorry – I hope this doesn’t come across as contentious, just genuinely wanting to understand more about why these clubs would go in the bag over a 460cc club assuming that both clubs had similar specifications otherwise (shaft length, swingweight, loft and so on).



    • DAN

      Not at all contentious, these are all good questions for sure and I enjoy having the chance to respond. The 919F/D is a specialty design that has a handful of small things that it can do over a normal large volume driver, but one big thing it can’t. It’s primary use is as a club to use off the tee on tight holes that otherwise would require a driver. The F/D headweight means you won’t build this to a length any longer than 43.5 with 43 being what most would do. With our knowledge of high strength alloys and face design, the F/D has the same COR as any normal driver so it doesn’t give up distance v. a normal driver and can be a straighter hitting club because it would be shorter than pretty much any drivers.

      The F/D is also for players who simply don’t like large heads but still want the same high COR that comes with all normal size titanium drivers. That too was a motivation in the design. Another small one is for off the fairway use for long 2nd shots, but only if the player has a high level of confidence in hitting low lofts off the deck. The face height of the F/D is 40mm so that makes it taller than any normal 3w, hence a player has to be confident in being able to get the ball up to fly with a little taller face.

      What it can’t do as well as a normal driver is in the area of off center hit performance, because it is so much smaller than a normal driver head. Normal driver heads will have a much higher MOI and some normal size drivers like our 919THI will have a variable thickness face that really does combine with the higher MOI to offer about the best off center hit distance possible. You can’t do that in a head the size of the F/D. But with the F/D being built to a shorter length, that too helps with reducing the severity of hitting the ball off center to begin with. Yet we still do.

      So the bottom line is if you play courses with a fair number of very tight 4 and 5 par holes, if you are really good hitting a 3 wood off the deck and you’d like to have a little more 2nd shot distance, then the F/D is a possible. But if you love large driver heads and you are totally ok with using a normal 3w off the tee on tight holes, then no, the F/D probably won’t fill a need. Hope this helps and thanks much for your interest,

  2. I currently use a Cobra M/Speed Offset 3-Wood with an Accra shaft as my driver. I had the shaft installed by my club fitter. I use the 3-wood because my slow swing needs loft for maximum distance. Can the 14-degree Fairway Driver be fitted onto my Accra Shaft?

    • Fred:

      As long as the Accra Shaft has a tip diameter of 0.335″ which is most likely, it can be removed from the other head and installed in the 919F/D with no problems. As to what length it would come out to be, that depends on the difference in the distance from the bottom of the shafting bore to the ground between the two clubheads. That is something a competent clubmaker should know about to be able to allow for any differences there might be in this dimension in the two heads.


  3. Tom,

    Thank you for answering all of my questions, especially in a timely manner.

    Does the F/D have any amount of face progression? I couldn’t find the measurement. As mentioned before, I own a 12 degree model that is 1 degree open and the face progression seems minimal.

    Thanks as always.

    • BEN

      To give you a frame of reference, the FP of the 919THI 11* loft driver is 19mm. The FP of the 919F/D-11* model is 17mm and the FP of the 929HS #3wood is 16mm. As a designer I only see FP as a visual aspect of the head that has to be matched to the size of the head. In very, very minute terms only with players who have a very late release, more FP on a head can contribute to a slightly higher trajectory for any given loft while less FP is the opposite. But these things are so very, very slight that 99.9% of all golfers don’t experience that and only view FP as a visual aspect that they like or dislike about the clubheads. Therefore, I do not see it has having any contribution on its own to performance other than how it looks to the golfer and how that can breed a level of confidence which can then result in better performance indirectly. But the look of a head is huge to many players so you do have to take that into account. For example, making a driver with only 12mm FP would really turn off a ton of players while making a driver with 22-23mm FP would as well look very odd. That’s why for most 450-460cc size drivers you see the FP existing between a narrow range from around 17-20mm, not usually more and not usually less. But as you go smaller with the head size, you do need to reduce the actual FP to obtain a similar look because the small size of a head most definitely tricks the eye when you look down on it in the playing position.


  4. Hi Tom,

    Does the hosel bore open up to the sole of the club? I am wondering how I can get hotmelt to that area, mostly for sound purposes.

    Thank you.

    • Ben

      All metal woods regardless of maker are manufactured so there is a small hole in the bottom of the bore that will open up into the open cavity of the head. The head production factories do this so they can inject a special “sticky glue” into the heads that is intended to catch and hold small particles that may break loose from inside the head during the life of the club. All makers of metal woods do have a stopper plug installed in the bottom of the bore to close off that access hole so when a shaft is installed, epoxy from the installation will not ooze into the open cavity of the head to eventually break loose and cause a rattle. So to access this hole at the bottom of the bore, you would need to remove that stopper plug. In all my heads this stopper plug is at the bottom of the hosel weight bore which is a secondary bore of 7.5mm diameter located directly below the 8.6mm shafting bore. Doing that can be done with a thin sharp ended probe to “lance” it and pull it out or to drill it out with a 9/32 drill bit. Either way the existing stopper plug will probably be damaged so would not be able to be re installed. In that case when you re shaft the clubhead, you would want to be VERY CAREFUL not to let any of the epoxy ooze down into the head. Which means installing the shaft with the head UP and letting the shaft cure with the club horizontal.


  5. Tom,
    I have the F/D and I just noticed there is a tubular hollow near the toe end on the underside of the club. It seems that there was a sort of cover for the hole, but the cover is no longer there. Ironically, the club whistles in the key of D along with the Doppler effect when swung, Ha, and that is how I discovered that there was this hole in the club. Would you explain to me what the purpose of this void is for?
    Thank you,
    BTW, love the club.

    • Jarrod

      that is one of the two weight bore chambers in the head which are there to enable the clubmaker to add weight to the head to get it to the swingweight or head feel that best fits each golfer’s strength + swing tempo and sense of headweight feel for good timing and rhythm in the swing. The other weight bore is below the tip of the shaft in the hosel. The weight bore on the toe end of the sole is covered by a little oval shaped medallion with an adhesive back. Unfortunately it sounds like it just gave way and came loose. You can go to the clubmaker who made the club if he is in your area and ask him to replace it. If that is impossible, send me your mailing address to tww@wishongolf.com and I will mail you one. It has a peel off backing that covers the adhesive. It is best to put a tiny toothpick dab of epoxy onto the flat surface, then peel off the paper hack off the medallion and then press it into place. Let the epoxy dry and you’re ready to go.


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