919fd-main919F/D Fairway Drivers

A Superb Fitting Option for More Control on Tight Holes

The 919F/D Fairway Drivers are the answer for players looking for a high COR “mini-driver” or for a tee shot club for use on tight par-4 and par-5 holes for greater control without losing any distance normally achieved with a conventional high COR titanium driver. TWHT’s proprietary bendable hosel allows an extremely wide range in custom fitting specs for loft, lie and face angle.


  • Designed for the golfer who needs more control off the tee or wishes a much smaller size driver head
  • Thin, variable thickness, high strength steel face for high 0.830 COR for maximum distance
  • Bendable hosel for a wide range of fitting options for lie and face angle, +/-4° from spec
  • Can also be played off the fairway by more skilled players who want every bit of second shot distance on long holes
  • Available in RH in 11° and 14° lofts, cosmetically designed to complement the appearance of the 919THI Drivers


A 360º view of the 919F/D Fairway Driver Clubhead.

Ratings and Reviews

VN:F [1.9.22_1171]
Rating: 4.1/5 (137 votes cast)

919F/D, 4.1 out of 5 based on 137 ratings


  1. I currently use a Cobra M/Speed Offset 3-Wood with an Accra shaft as my driver. I had the shaft installed by my club fitter. I use the 3-wood because my slow swing needs loft for maximum distance. Can the 14-degree Fairway Driver be fitted onto my Accra Shaft?

    • Fred:

      As long as the Accra Shaft has a tip diameter of 0.335″ which is most likely, it can be removed from the other head and installed in the 919F/D with no problems. As to what length it would come out to be, that depends on the difference in the distance from the bottom of the shafting bore to the ground between the two clubheads. That is something a competent clubmaker should know about to be able to allow for any differences there might be in this dimension in the two heads.


  2. Tom,

    Thank you for answering all of my questions, especially in a timely manner.

    Does the F/D have any amount of face progression? I couldn’t find the measurement. As mentioned before, I own a 12 degree model that is 1 degree open and the face progression seems minimal.

    Thanks as always.

    • BEN

      To give you a frame of reference, the FP of the 919THI 11* loft driver is 19mm. The FP of the 919F/D-11* model is 17mm and the FP of the 929HS #3wood is 16mm. As a designer I only see FP as a visual aspect of the head that has to be matched to the size of the head. In very, very minute terms only with players who have a very late release, more FP on a head can contribute to a slightly higher trajectory for any given loft while less FP is the opposite. But these things are so very, very slight that 99.9% of all golfers don’t experience that and only view FP as a visual aspect that they like or dislike about the clubheads. Therefore, I do not see it has having any contribution on its own to performance other than how it looks to the golfer and how that can breed a level of confidence which can then result in better performance indirectly. But the look of a head is huge to many players so you do have to take that into account. For example, making a driver with only 12mm FP would really turn off a ton of players while making a driver with 22-23mm FP would as well look very odd. That’s why for most 450-460cc size drivers you see the FP existing between a narrow range from around 17-20mm, not usually more and not usually less. But as you go smaller with the head size, you do need to reduce the actual FP to obtain a similar look because the small size of a head most definitely tricks the eye when you look down on it in the playing position.


  3. Hi Tom,

    Does the hosel bore open up to the sole of the club? I am wondering how I can get hotmelt to that area, mostly for sound purposes.

    Thank you.

    • Ben

      All metal woods regardless of maker are manufactured so there is a small hole in the bottom of the bore that will open up into the open cavity of the head. The head production factories do this so they can inject a special “sticky glue” into the heads that is intended to catch and hold small particles that may break loose from inside the head during the life of the club. All makers of metal woods do have a stopper plug installed in the bottom of the bore to close off that access hole so when a shaft is installed, epoxy from the installation will not ooze into the open cavity of the head to eventually break loose and cause a rattle. So to access this hole at the bottom of the bore, you would need to remove that stopper plug. In all my heads this stopper plug is at the bottom of the hosel weight bore which is a secondary bore of 7.5mm diameter located directly below the 8.6mm shafting bore. Doing that can be done with a thin sharp ended probe to “lance” it and pull it out or to drill it out with a 9/32 drill bit. Either way the existing stopper plug will probably be damaged so would not be able to be re installed. In that case when you re shaft the clubhead, you would want to be VERY CAREFUL not to let any of the epoxy ooze down into the head. Which means installing the shaft with the head UP and letting the shaft cure with the club horizontal.


  4. Tom,
    I have the F/D and I just noticed there is a tubular hollow near the toe end on the underside of the club. It seems that there was a sort of cover for the hole, but the cover is no longer there. Ironically, the club whistles in the key of D along with the Doppler effect when swung, Ha, and that is how I discovered that there was this hole in the club. Would you explain to me what the purpose of this void is for?
    Thank you,
    BTW, love the club.

    • Jarrod

      that is one of the two weight bore chambers in the head which are there to enable the clubmaker to add weight to the head to get it to the swingweight or head feel that best fits each golfer’s strength + swing tempo and sense of headweight feel for good timing and rhythm in the swing. The other weight bore is below the tip of the shaft in the hosel. The weight bore on the toe end of the sole is covered by a little oval shaped medallion with an adhesive back. Unfortunately it sounds like it just gave way and came loose. You can go to the clubmaker who made the club if he is in your area and ask him to replace it. If that is impossible, send me your mailing address to tww@wishongolf.com and I will mail you one. It has a peel off backing that covers the adhesive. It is best to put a tiny toothpick dab of epoxy onto the flat surface, then peel off the paper hack off the medallion and then press it into place. Let the epoxy dry and you’re ready to go.


  5. Love the 919 F/D! I’ve played a 10 deg 919 thi for a few years and absolutely love it, but for me with the modern driver head sizes I really have a tough time hitting a draw with them, not sure why, but it isn’t a huge deal because most tee shots I just want to hit a nice little controlled fade anyways. The 919 F/D fills the perfect spot for an alternate tee shot club for me. Slightly larger face than a 3 wood gives a little more confidence, but its small enough I can really turn over a nice draw on those few holes i need it. I have the 14 degree and I haven’t had any issues playing it off the deck like a normal fairway wood either. The custom face angle and lie angle adjustments are by far Toms greatest invention. Thanks for a great design!

  6. Tom,
    Can the f/d hozel be bent 4 degrees in any direction as the driver can? The description says only two degrees. Also, is it possible to ream these hozels bores to accept a .370 shaft, or even a .355 shaft? Thank you for your response in advanced.

    • JARROD

      Yes, the 919F/D has the same identical construction and materials as the 929, 950 and 775 which are the other steel/high COR face models with bendable hosels. So the F/D can be bent +/-4* in any direction provided the clubmaker has the right bending machine to properly clamp and secure the body of the head to enable the hosel to be bent. While the hosel could stand reaming to a 0.355 taper or 0.370 parallel I would question doing this from the standpoint of performance with an iron shaft. This is a wood, made to the weight of a low loft wood head. With an iron shaft it would play too head light at any length less than 42″. And iron shafts are twice as stiff as wood shafts in terms of actual bending amount so I really question the playability of the club with a typical iron shaft installed. UNless of course you happened to install an iron shaft that was 1 to 2 flexes softer depending on your transition force in the downswing.

      Hope this helps,

  7. I purchased a 919FD @ 11* and shafted it with the TW shaft that was recommended for my 98-100 mph swing speed. I struggled to elevate my shots and Not hit a fade with it. I generally have a high ball flight and I don’t usually hit fades, so I re-shafted it 2 more times with similar results. I also never got much distance out of it.

    3 Questions:
    1)Can I order another head at 1 or even 2 degrees closed?
    2)Is my swing speed enough to compress the face to get max output out of the 919?
    3)Should I try the 929HS at 12* instead?


    • RICH:

      First questions I would ask to try to get to the bottom of the performance issue you have had with the FD would bem 1) what length did you make it, 2) what swingweight did you build it to at that length, 3) what length is your 3 wood or 4 wood in your previous woods, 4) did you have any issues at all in the past hitting a fairway wood high to fly and carry.

      Most people who use the FD play it at a length of between 43-44″. Most build it to have the same shaft and swingweight as they like and prefer in their driver or previous fairway woods. Ball position is to be still off the left heel, just like any driver or 3w.

      This head you have can be bent to have a closed face angle. It is made with a special softer steel hosel so it can be bent for a face angle or lie fitting change as needed. Now as to who would have the proper machine to bend a woodhead like this with a bendable hosel, that can be tough to find someone to do that. Not very many clubmakers have invested in a 2nd LL machine to do that and instead prefer to ask for the head to be bent before it is shipped to them. I’m at a loss to tell you a sure fire way to find who does and does not have such a machine because this is info that we did not keep before we handed the product line distribution over to Diamond Golf in the fall of 2016. And I am sure they would not have tried to query all the clubmakers to know this either. About the only thing I can think of would be to go to the Club Tech Forum on Golf WRX. Register to post and put up a thread that asks who has a LL bending machine that could bend wood heads.

      And yes, your swingspeed is plenty enough to make the face work fine. Even at a lower speed than that the head still should offer a high smash factor of over 1.47 (smash being ball speed divided by clubhead speed with 1.5 being the absolute limit for a legal conforming high COR head).


  8. Hi Tom,

    I have a TM 16 degree mini driver for short or tight holes. I have a 17 degree Callaway 4W for the fairway. I am a 14 HC with a driver speed of 93-95 MPH. Could I use a 16 degree 919F/D for both so I could put an extra wedge in my bag?


    • Bruce

      The 919F/D is offered in spec loft models of 11* and 14*. Through our Hand Select service, we could sort through inventory and potentially find lofts of 10, 12, 13, 15 in addition to the spec lofts of 11 and 14. But we would not be able to find one at 16* because the production tolerance on the heads is only +/-1* from spec. I kind of doubt you would want to use the F/D as a fairway wood because it has a 40mm tall face height. Typical fairway woods these days have a face height between 32mm and 36mm. A 40mm tall face would look like it is towering over the ball and could psychologically make it difficult to feel comfortable about hitting the ball well up in the air to fly and carry. On the other hand, if you have never had any problem with a deeper face fairway wood, then what you suggest is possible.


  9. I have a wishon fd driver 14* and love it. Hit it high with good distance but no roll because of high ball flight. Would like to try 11* to possibly get lower flight. But all fitters have only 14* and also believe that absolutely nobody could be a fit for a 11*. We’ll I know I would be. This same attitude is why I can’t buy or try a wishon driver. I currently use a 9* callaway with a blue stiff shaft and hit it good. I think I could go from good to great with wishon but absolutely no way will a fitter have a 9* for a try. Very frustrating.

    • ALLEN

      Sigh. . . . having been a teacher to the clubmakers for over 30 yrs now through my books and articles and information, I can tell you with great disappointment that there are some of the clubmakers who start to spew out bad information when they think they are starting to get smart in this field. I used to call it “sophomore-itis in clubmaking” when I began to see this among some clubmakers many years ago. Whoever said that you no one could use an 11* 919F/D head is ignorant and has no idea what he is talking about, plain and simple.

      First and foremost, the F/D is nothing more than a small size driver head – to be used with the ball perched on a tee for shots on tight holes where accuracy from a shorter length driver is needed. ONLY if the player has very good ball striking skills would it be thought of as a possible fairway wood too. And really, logic certainly dictates that. All a player has to do to find out if he can hit the F/D off the deck is simply toss a ball down and have at it to see. There have been good players for years who can hit a 460cc size driver off the deck and get it airborne just fine. Doing the same with this F/D would not be an issue, IF THE GOLFER HAS A GOOD ENOUGH SWING. But day in and day out I designed the F/D as a tee shot club to be made to shorter lengths for use on tight holes, OR for golfers who simply hate the look of a larger 460cc size head. Any clubmaker can order the 919F/D in its 11* loft version – and the clubmaker can ask Diamond Golf to hand pick through all the F/D 11 heads to find one at 10* so if you wish to have one lower in loft than 11, that can be done. But not 9, that is not possible. Hope this helps,

    • Allen Griggs
      I’ve got the fd driver in 11 deg and it’s the best thing I’ve ever hit
      I don’t think I need a driver as this is long off the tee but I do want to try Tom’s driver as people say it’s long
      It’s easy to hit off the fairway and when in the rough it flys out with no spin (I was laying up to a par 5 hit it out of the rough and it rolled on to the green 250yards could not believe it)
      Just wished they could do this club in 8 deg to play a stinger shot when into the wind
      Buy this club and prove the fitters wrong

    • I found a 10* and had it bent closed 1 1/2 degrees and I am loving it. I use it instead of my 3 wood since I also bought a 8* driver and finally hitting the ball straight. Love it

  10. Hi Tom,

    I’m interested in understanding a little more about the 919f/d, particularly how it compares against the stronger lofted options in the 929HS Fairway Wood line, and why someone would choose one design over the other.

    Reading between the lines I would assume that the 919F/D offers more forgiveness (and distance?) off the tee due to the larger face/head, and the 929HS offers more playability from the fairway due to the shallower face/head?

    I see you sell a 12 and 14 Degree 929HS and an 11 and 14 Degree 919f/d, how do the two designs compare in terms of ball flight, forgiveness etc, and would one be better suited to certain swing characteristics (angle of attack, clubhead speed etc) than the other?



    • Hi Garry

      Thanks very much for your interest and we’re always happy to help. I designed the F/D to offer an alternative to those players who, 1) disliked the larger size drivers and just mentally wanted a driver that was much smaller, 2) wanted a shorter tee shot club for tight holes and wanted a larger head with larger face and potentially higher COR than what they could get if they used a 3w for such shots. Because of the larger face area vs the 929HS woods, the COR of the F/D is higher than the 929, but not by a huge amount. I still was able even with the much smaller face area of the 929 to get the COR up there decently. With any of my wood designs, you can ask for a hand select to be performed to pull heads and measure the loft to try to find lofts other than the spec design lofts but within the normal production tolerance of +/-1*. So with the FD it is possible to find a 10, 10.5, 11.5,12 from the inventory of the 11 heads, and to find a 13, 13.5, 14.5, 15 within the inventory of the 14 heads. +/-1 tolerance for loft happens on EVERY single head model ever made by any factory for any golf company. We just do the hand select program to take advantage of that to offer clubmakers more precise specs when they need that for a golfer. Just because of the size of a wood head, there is no relationship of that to the golfer’s swing. Psychologically there certainly can be, but nothing swing wise. Any golfer who hits a large size driver fine will hit the FD fine as long as all the specs are the same. And we never really saw any real difference in shot height from the FD vs the 919. Mainly because the testing was done off a tee since the main function of the FD and 919 are as tee shot clubs. When you test shot height with a ball on a tee, you really do eliminate a whole lot of the potential for a difference coming from the Center of Gravity difference in the static heads. Hit them off the ground and that’s when the CG effect becomes greater. But then most people do not hit either the FD or the 919 driver off the ground so that is not a valid part of testing. No question if you can deal with the smaller head size of the 919 off the tee, then you do get the added benefit of the 929 being far easier to use off the deck for long fwy shots than will be the FD.


  11. Tom,

    I was just wondering if you could clarify something for me – what is the actual size (volume) of the 919F/D? I have seen both 200cc and 260cc, both in multiple places. What would be the size difference between this and a 365PF 3 wood?



    • BILL

      Sorry for the confusion. The 919F/D is 260cc not 200cc. To contrast to the 365PF #3 wood, the 919F/D has a face height of 39.5mm while the 365PF has a face height of 33mm. To give you more of a frame of reference, a typical 460cc driver will have a face height anywhere between 52mm and 58mm. Hope this gives you a better sense of the relative size difference with the 919F/D head.

    • Tom,

      Thanks for the info, that was just what I wanted to hear. I am thinking about making up a set of woods with the 11 degree 919F/D, and 4/79 365FS fairways.


  12. In the catalog it says the f/d has an adjustable hosel that can be bent 2 degrees. The website description says it can be bent 4. Just wondering which one is correct.
    Thanks again for the time you spent sharing and answering our questions and I wanna wish you happy holidays.

    • KOURT
      Actually, the hosel on the 919F/D head is a BENDABLE HOSEL and it can be bent to change either the lie or the face angle or both by a range of +/-4 degrees, not 2 degrees. This must be a typo in the catalog, I am sorry. Lots and lots and lots of spec numbers to get right and I have always missed a few when I do the catalog info work.


  13. Good evening Tom.

    It’s me Rob again from the UK. I have a question about shaft fitting on the new 919FD. Your UK agents recommended the white shaft 60 gram stiff flex to my coach for fitting. This shaft is rated for 90 to 105mph swing speeds.My swing speed average is 103 mph and quite an aggressive swing. So my coach built the club with the recommendations of the UK agents. However when I hit the club there is a terrible aftershock from a clean ball strike and it feels like the shaft will shatter. The result is total loss of distance and a very poor low trajectory. Can you please advise on a shaft in this instance as I dont believe that in my case that the shaft is the correct one. I am only 5 foot 7 and the recommendation was a 44 inch shaft.

    • ROB
      Than that sounds to me like you should be into either the S2S Black 85 S with a bit of additional tip trim such as +1″ or you could be into the S2S Black 85 X with normal 0 tip trim to fit your more aggressive move at the ball. Whether you go tipped S or std X depends on your sense of feel for the shaft – if you have a definite dislike for a shaft to ever feel even slightly soft, then go with the X. Other wise the tipped S. The 85g weight of these shafts is also recommended when a player is above average for his downswing force and aggressiveness to help get the total weight of the club up higher as a means to help prevent you from being too quick with your tempo.


  14. Tom, does the 919F/D use a driver or fairway driver headcover?

    • Ronnie, the fairway wood covers will fit the 919F/D.


  15. Hi Tom: Can you comment on the strategy of building a mini driver from a 919THI versus a 919F/D? I very rarely use a fairway wood off the deck. Almost exclusively off of the tee. I suppose if I built my mini driver from a 919THI then I definitely could not hit off the fairway, but then I am not sure how useful an 11-14* 919F/D (with a slightly higher face hight than some of your other woods) would perform off the fairway either. Really looking forward to hitting some next summer!

    • BRETT:

      When I designed the 919FD fairway driver, I designed it chiefly to be a club to use off the tee with a peg under the ball for tight tee shot holes. While I knew that better players could hit it off the deck, that was not the intent. So any use of the FD for fairway wood shots off normal lies is an afterthought, not a primary intent. Mini driver to me is a smaller head size built to a driver length. What you sound like you want is a driver that you can control better and hit much more accurately without having to give up too much in distance. In that respect, I’d think of the 919 but built to a length not more than 43 or 43.5″ so the shorter length can offer the improvement in control. At that short of a length you will be somewhat limited in terms of how high you could get the swingweight to be but with the weight bore in the head and if you did choose to use a smaller tip weight in addition, you could get to a reasonable swingweight with normal weight grips and a 65-75g shaft.


    • Brett

      I’m sure Tom will answer this properly, but I can tell you what I have found with the 14 deg 919 F/D after putting it in the bag a few months ago.

      The main benefit for me is that I can use it for accuracy on tight holes, and also can use it instead of my driver for the whole round if my driving isn’t that good. Perfect example just yesterday. I hit two poor drives and then just used the F/D for the rest of the round. I lose very little distance and am more accurate. With my old fairway wood, I couldn’t really do that.

      In addition to that, being able to hit it off the deck is a surprise bonus. I wasn’t sure if I’d be able to handle it prior to purchasing the club, but it’s actually as easy as my old 16 deg fairway. Even when I don’t catch it, it still goes quite far. My driver swing speed is only about 90-95 mph but I can hit this club off the deck without much trouble.

      For me it’s a perfect club because (a) I hit it nearly as long as the driver (maybe 10-15 yards less) (b) I hit it straighter (c) I can hit it off the deck and (d) the head is big enough to instill confidence. I feel as confident with it as with my driver. I sometime used to sky or mishit my old fairway wood but have never done that with the F/D.

      I consider the club to be a real weapon now as I can reach previously unreachable par 5’s, and can rescue a bad driving round with it.

      Tom will doubtless give you the professional view but that’s my experience as a user


    • Thanks Tom and Frazer

      I think this kind of club is exactly what I am looking for. A 2-wood. Maybe even have it as a 15th club that I can alternate with a 4-wood depending on the course. My driving can be my biggest weakness so having a go-to straight club is ideal. My only thought is that building the 2-wood from a 919THI head would give a lot more off-center forgiveness. I have to admit that I do like the smaller size of the F/D head. Either way, something to discuss with my fitter when the time comes.

      As for use as an actual fairway wood, I typically have very little trouble getting the ball up in the air off the deck and I actually like hitting low line drives at times since they are much easier to control and predict.

      Thanks again.

    • Building a 43″ 919 FD per my fitting. Do I tip trim inbetween Driver (none) and 3-Wood (1″) for the S2S Red Stiff shaft? Thanks!

    • David
      We’ve always advocated a 0″ tip trim for the F/D,even if it is to be built to 42 or 43″ playing length. It’s been that way ever since we intro’d the model and never had anyone say a negative comment about the shaft installation being done that way.

  16. All things being equal (shaft weight, flex, length etc) if I had a 919thi 10 degree vs a 919f/d 10 degree swung at the same speed and same center contact, would there be a difference in distance or ball speed?

    • Kourt
      For all things being completely equal as you say and especially with respect to the same point of impact IN RELATION TO THE BALL’S CG, there would be no difference in distance or ball speed. The only difference could come from +/- tolerances for the COR of the face in the specific heads of both types that are chosen. But if you equalize that by measuring enough of each head so you find one of each with the same COR, it would be the same for performance. The only place that size of the head matters is with regard to the MOI and the off center hit forgiveness. In that sense, the big head wins every time.

    • Tom,
      So all things be equal the distances should be the same. Okay, in another post by you, you mentioned that if your driver is 44″ then your next longest club(3wd) should be 43″. Again all things being equal where does the extra distance come from when using a driver over a 3wd, is it all in the extra length (44″ vs 43″) of the club/shaft that produces the extra distance? IS this the same for the tour pros who seem to hit their 3wds almost as far as their drivers, typically anywhere between 20 to 30 yds difference.
      I love my present 12* 3wd 43″ but I want something that’s just as accurate off the tee but gets me about another 20/25 yds, which made me think of the 919F/D.


    • Walter

      I believe what I mean to say is that if your driver is 44 then the absolute longest you would ever want to make the 3w would be 43. I do not mean that anyone with a 44″ driver should be locked into a 43″ #3 wood. In fact most people who have had accuracy or off center hit problems with the 3w are finding they are doing better and not really losing any real distance if they go with a 42 to 42.5″ #3 wood length. Two things bring about more distance with the driver in your example question – one is the loft being lower and the other is the slight increase in clubhead speed from the length being 44 instead of 43. But this assumes that the loft being lower is the right loft for the golfer’s clubhead speed AND their angle of attack into the ball. Always remember as clubhead speed gets lower with a golfer, the higher the loft on the driver must be to maximize the combination of ball speed with launch angle to keep the ball in the air longer to sustain carry distance while still encouraging enough roll after landing. So for example a lot of avg players with an 85mph driver speed should be using 12 to 14* loft depending on their angle of attack (upward vs level vs downward). In such a case then the golfer probably would not want to use a 3w because normal 3w loft of 14-15* would just not get the ball to go farther than with the higher loft driver. Hence when the golfer’s clubhead speed and A of A dictates a higher driver loft the golfer should skip the 3w and then make his first fwy wood to be either a 4w at 16.5-17* or a 5 wood at 18*. For you it sounds like if you have a driver at 44″ with a loft of 10.5 to 11, that should be enough to get you some more distance over the 919F/D.


    • I should have added that both the 12* 3wd and 919FD would only be used off a tee peg. What loft would you think would be good for the 919FD, the fight of the 12* is just about perfect and I typically hit it anywhere between 250/260 depending on weather conditions. My present driver is stated as 10* and when I hit it center of face(or close) I like the flight height. would the 10* 919fd be a fit. I know tough question to answer, just your gut feeling/experience is enough.

      Thanks again

    • Hi Tom,

      Thanks for your detailed reply. I think I’ll give one of your 919FD a try and just see how it works out at 44″. With the “hand picked” option you mentioned in other posts, does it cost extra for every spec you want changed? Looking at the specs the +/- of each spec is quite wide.
      For example I’d like a loft of 10* square face, standard 57* lie, head weight of 202/203g(easier to add weight than remove for SW adjustment in the future). Do each of these spec changes constitute an hand pick? Thanks again.

    • Walter

      the tolerances of +/-1* for loft lie and face angle are the best any factory on the planet will offer. You just have to understand how incredibly difficult it is to make clubheads from scratch and try to get them all dead on the many different specs beyond loft, lie and face angle that there are to have to deal with. The Hand Pick charge covers loft, lie and face angle – in other words they do not charge separately for each spec that is requested. The head weight is separate though because mass is totally different than geometry in head production, but the weight pick charge is less than the loft/lie/face angle charge.


    • Hi Tom, Thanks again for your reply. I understand what you’re saying and believe you when you stress the extra mile you have the factory do when getting the specs as close as humanly possible. I was just asking if these specs requested would be checked when doing a hand selecting pick. If a 10* loft and 57* lie are asked for that that is what is picked and I believe the answer is yes, which is what I expected.

      I don’t mean to question you on this, but the last go around I had with another companies product( a vary known name) whose customer service rep couldn’t even tell me what the static loft was on one of their adjustable drivers I have. He tried to tell me there was no static loft because it’s an adjustable hosel, WHAT. Finally he came back and said R/D says it’s 9.5, so I asked at what hosel setting. His reply..R/D says at a dynamic loft hosel setting of 8.5*, WHAT. So the static loft of 9.5 is at a hosel setting of 8.5*. I gave up after that. Even after asking shaft and face square to target with a soled head what is the loft, they couldn’t answer that question, okay move on.

      Thanks again for your honesty in club making Tom, I wish every company was like yours in the golf industry.

    • I should clarify that the first driver model I purchased from this company did have the static loft on the head, which was 10*, the second and different year model I purchased from them did not have any loft marked on the head or in their literature, which led me to question them as to what it was.

  17. Hey Tom,
    I did a fitting with Tom Summerhays in Utah a few weeks ago for the single length irons. He also had a 14 degree f/d that he let me hit. It was built a little longer than I typically would hit but I hit a fairly consistent straight but very low ball flight. I was wondering if that is typical with this club. I figured at 14 degrees loft I would hit it at least as high as my driver but I was surprised at the low flight because I’m typically a high ball hitter.
    Is this typical from this club head? And if so can you explain why.
    I’d really be interested in a club that launched like that.

    • Kourt

      Without being there in person to see you hit the club and observe several things, I can;t really say for sure why this club is generating a lower ball flight. For most everyone else that we get a chance to see or hear from, we’ve not heard that. The smaller size head does put the center of gravity closer to the face than in a 460cc driver by a good bit. That’s one possibility. but in truth, the ONLY way one can know for sure is to see launch monitor data from a normal driver you do hit high and then the data from hitting this club – and then to look at your impact position with both clubs too. Anything else short of that type of analysis would just be a guess.


  18. Hi Tom

    I thought I would comment here, if only to give you a break from the Sterling Irons thread 🙂

    I have been playing the 560 MC’s and 919 Driver for a few years now and love both. My fairway woods were however not fitted, and I’ve wanted to get some TWGT clubs to complete my set. This became more of a priority recently when I started to struggle off the tee with my 4 wood and 15 deg hybrid which I switched between periodically. I couldn’t get the tee height to work – I would either have it too low, or if I teed it up then I was prone to skying it. I also swing a bit differently with my irons vs my woods (more up with the woods) and found that I didn’t really know which swing to use

    I have an old 2 wood (12 deg) which I had cut down and found that I could hit it ok from the fairway, which made me think that a 14 deg 919 FD could solve my issues.

    I got the 919 fd about 2 weeks ago and I was right. I can basically hit it with exactly the same swing as my driver. It goes just as well (which is very well!) and about 20 yards shorter.

    The bonus is that I can also hit it from the deck. You did warn me when I emailed you that its primary function is not as a fairway club, but I have been pleasantly surprised that I can hit it better than my old 16 deg. I’m not that great a player either (currently 9 h’cap) so was surprised how easy it was off the deck.

    As a slight aside, I had Golf Science here in Cape Town build me an 18.5 915 f/h. Although it’s discontinued, they still had one in their stock. Renato built it to 2 iron length and it is quite superb. I absolutely loved it from the first swing. The flight is quite low but very penetrating, which is perfect for our windy conditions.

    These two awesome clubs are really the last two pieces of the puzzle for me. I can use the FD for short par 4’s, the FH for 2nd shots on par 5’s and can use the FD again if I really want to have a go at the par 5’s.

    Shame that you discontinued the 915 fh, as I am now trying to find a 24.5 deg with no luck, but otherwise I couldn’t be happier with my bag now.

    Fantastic job again Tom.

    • Thank you Frazer, I really am pleased to hear you have things pretty well sorted out for your fitting needs and that you like what you have now. Very interesting that you mentioned the F/H heads. They truly were a very nice design that very few people had the chance to discover this. In fact, my 3 and 4 hybrid clubs in my personal set are 915F/H heads (21 and 24.5) and have been for years and will be for years as well. I too wish I would have kept some of them around !!


  19. I am interested in the 919 F/D driver. I am 65 and use your one-length irons and #4H and 3H Wishon. My problem has always be squaring the club at impact so have used a Mini from Taylor. Hit about 1/2 of fairways generally, but would like to be more consistent. My club builder made the shafts for the one-length and other hybrid between a senior and regular. I have no problem squaring the one-length or Wishon hybrids. What shaft would you recommend and what length to go with the 919 F/D

    • ROY

      The question of what exact shaft model and flex a golfer should use is one that cannot be accurately answered by email. That decision is best done after an analysis of the golfer’s clubhead speed, downswing tempo, point of release. Since you said you have worked with a clubmaker for some of your previous clubs, I suggest that you go back to meet with him to have him do the swing analysis that can help him make the recommendation for what shaft would best fit you, to then be installed in the F/D clubhead. If you are currently playing with a big company driver you bought in a retail golf store, that driver is probably between 45-46″ in length. if so, then we would recommend to not go longer than 44″ in the F/D – and if you have any tendency to slice the ball or swing over the top and outside in at the ball, we would not recommend the length to be any more than 43 to maybe 43.5″.

      Hope this helps, and thanks very much for your interest,

  20. What are the specs on the 919 F/D

    For example, CC, face width

    • ROY

      Dimensional specs for the 919 F/D are as follows – 260cc volume, 40mm face height, 88mm face to back breadth, 92mm face width.


  21. I currently use a mini from Taylor. How would you compare 919FD with the mini drivers from Taylor or Callaway? I recently purchased your single length clubs with the 5H. Do you plan to build a 4 hybrid when you make the 4 iron?

    • ROY
      I am sorry but I never look at any of the other companies’ designs or models. They’re of no interest to me in my work and there is no reason I would ever need to look at them. So I cannot tell you anything about the mini drivers from these other companies. I can tell you that the people who have been fit into one of our F/D heads do like it and the COR is every bit as high as any large size titanium driver for ball speed and distance.

      We will be adding a 4 hybrid and 4 iron to the single length set, but they are in development and not likely to be seen or ready for this season. Thanks very much for your comment, and for having gone out to be fit with a set of the Sterling irons. I hope they are performing well for you !


  22. I have been building and playing Wishon clubs for the last couple years. I love the 919 full size 460 cc driver head and was intrigued by the mini-driver concept with the smaller head and shorter shaft length. In years past I remember the confidence of using drivers that were shorter than what is now common / standard. This last week I built one in 11 degrees loft, Wishon Black stiff shaft. I used it in play today and absolutely fell in love – didn’t miss a fairway with it. Compared to my full size 919 head which I play in 9.5 degrees, I found this 11 degree head to give me a slightly more penetrating trajectory and less spin so I actually get more roll out of it. (More penetrating because with this club you tee the ball lower and don’t have quite the upswing at impact compared to the full size head with ball tee’d higher.) For me, total distance is just as far as with the full size head but easier to hit and control. You feel confident with it in your hands. Take-home message here is that this is a concept anyone interested in equipment should take a look at. I’m a decent but not exceptional player (6.5 index) and feel the benefits of hitting a shorter club with a more compact head are very real for many, many players. It can make you re-think what good equipment is all about. Less can be more. It’s a fun discovery. Give it a try and have your buddies scratching their heads about how you are hitting it so straight and far compared to their 46+ inch drivers the OEM’s connived them into buying with promises of extra distance only a robot can achieve. 🙂

    • Thank you Daniel for sharing your experience with the new F/D driver !! We’re very pleased to hear that the new club is working well for you and doing everything it was supposed to do for your game !!


  23. Any idea if or when the 919F/D may be offered in a left handed version? I really like my 919THI.

    • ADAM
      Thanks very much for your interest and we are very pleased to hear you like the performance of the 919 driver you have. Unfortunately at this time, we do not have plans to develop the 919F/D in a left hand version. Our decision to develop any model in a left hand version is dependent on the demand for its right hand version. In all my design experience, never has a left hand version of a model sold more than 8% of the units it will in left hand. The 919F/D is just a little bit too limited in its demand even in right hand so that means with the far lower left hand demand, we probably are not going to be in a position to be able to invest in the tooling dies and inventory production to do that. Thanks very much for your interest,


  24. HiTom, my wife who is 5’3in would like a smaller headed driver, would the 919fd be a possible option? Thanks, Jack

    • Jack:

      Yes, the 919F/D can definitely be a driver for your wife or anyone who wishes a far smaller size head. Form the 919F/D 14 degree model, we can select one with 15* if that higher loft would be more suitable to her clubhead speed and angle of attack, or if the 14* loft itself is enough, of course that can be had as well. we also offer the 730CL driver which is a 400cc size head – still a much larger size than the F/D but noticeably smaller than the typical 460cc drivers that populate the driver market. And remember if she needs a flatter lie and or a different face angle, we can do that on either the F/D or the 730CL to further fit her needs.


  25. Tom had a 919 FD built last year when they first came out & I must say I have to try to miss the fairway.
    The club has a Tour Spec shaft with an A flex for my 65 year old swing speed 7 I get within 2 yards of my 919 THI.
    The club has a 43″ shaft & I am wondering if is should be a Regular flex as my THI & 16.5 fairway?
    It was a rush job as I was leaving on a trip to Virginia to see & play with my son.
    I do love the club as iy preforms as my other Wishon heads.
    Top notch.


    • Louis
      I would say that if you find you hit the 919F/D as well as you say, then this has to fall into a category of saying that the shaft that is a part of the good performance in the F/D most definitely should be the right shaft for you in any fairway woods you may choose to play. In other words, “if it ain’t broke, don’t try to fix it!”


  26. Good deal, that helps!
    Thanks Tom.

  27. Hello Tom!
    My current driver is 430cc and 11 1/4°. My initial thought about getting a 919F/D is that the cg will be lower(being half the face height of my current) and would be wise to request a hand picked 919f/d head closer to 10° because the ball would probably launch a bit higher. Is there merit in that thinking?

    • Scott:
      If you plan to use the 919F/D off the tee, keep in mind that you then would be putting the ball on a tee peg. And since the 919F/D has a shorter face height than a typical 460cc driver, you would be teeing the ball lower with the F/D than with any 460cc driver. This then has the effect of negating any CG difference in the F/D from it being a shorter face height head. So with the lower tee height used with the F/D, the relationship of the CG in the head to the CG of the ball would really be the same as it would be when teeing the ball higher for hitting a 460cc driver.

      Now if you hit the F/D vs a 460cc driver off the ground, there is where the lower CG of the F/D starts to achieve a higher flight per loft vs the 460cc driver because with the ball on the ground now you would have the CG of the F/D lower in relation to the ball’s CG than what would happen with a 460cc driver.

      You do have one other difference in the F/D vs a 460cc driver that would dictate that the F/D could hit the ball slightly LOWER for the same loft – that is the fact that the face to back CG location in the F/D is closer to the face than it would be in any 460cc driver. This is because the face to back dimension size of the F/D is smaller than that of a typical 460cc driver head. So the 460cc head would have its face to back CG location farther back from the face than would the F/D due to this size difference.

      Typically we find that if the golfer gets the same loft on the F/D that was a good fit for him with a 460cc driver, the flights are ok.


  28. The 919F/D is a winner – after several rounds my 14* (44″ long with an Aldila VooDoo shaft) has a place in the bag. Shots hit on the button go as far as my best with driver, now on an extended leave of absence! The 14* launches like an 11* driver, so I expect the 11* would launch like an 8.5* for stronger players. Advantages so far are eliminating the big misses, Fore Right in my case as I tend to be “late” with the longer clubs. Its much easier to work both ways with the smaller clubhead, and the face height is just big enough for consistent solid hits.

    Phil’s wins at the Scottish and British Opens in 2013 with a 12.5* fairway got my attention. His comment that you don’t need a different swing like the uppercut required for the big drivers is right on the money.

    I’d suggest that anyone interested in the 919F/D as driver lean to a softer flex. With an inch shorter club accuracy is not an issue. I wonder if there isn’t as much “hit” with a 208G head and 44″ shaft as with the longer drivers & 200G heads.

    • Dennis

      Thanks much for taking the time to come to our site and offer your comments and experience with the new F/D. It’s great to hear that the club is performing well for you and your swing and it is also very good for other golfers to hear that when it comes to distance, size matters not as long as the face is designed properly to hit the same COR that is typical with the much larger titanium driver heads. Without question though, a very key reason for the better performance is the shorter length that the F/D is designed to be built to have in its assembly.

      The only area where a smaller head like the F/D takes a little bit of a backseat to a 450-460cc titanium driver is in the off center hit performance. That much larger head size automatically brings a much higher MOI to the head for less off center hit twisting. But then too as is typically the case with a shorter length tee shot club, on center hits are usually better with the shorter length, so when coupled with the high COR face better overall results can usually be seen.

      Thanks much and the best to you in this great game,

  29. Greetings Tom:

    I wanted to follow up with you. Colin completed the fitting this past Friday and I was able to play at Inverness on Saturday to try out the new sticks (575 Cavity Back with Black S2S 85 gram regular shafts). Inverness recently sanded the greens so I left the AW, 56 and 60 degree wedges at home – waiting until spring. I did play the 4i-PW, 4W and 7W. Saturday was my 8th round of 2014 due to surgery this summer. (I usually play 50-60 rounds a year) Prior to the 2014season I was a 6 handicap and have been playing to about a 10 since surgery – struggling with custom fit KZG clubs. After surgery, I no longer had the strength to wield them and was getting frustrated.

    The Wishon clubs, shafts and fit are tremendous. I finally have a set that fits my swing! I shot 3 over on the front (I triple bogeyed #9. (I should mention I was playing my old wedges and old 3 wood, which contributed to the triple bogey) I then shot 1 under on the back 9 for a 72. 3 birdies during the round. 🙂 Funny thing, it was really effortless. I didn’t have to manipulate my swing by swinging extra hard or attempt to pull off shots my former clubs would not have permitted. Best shot of the day was a 6 iron under a limb and then over a tree to within 3 feet of the cup on number 7 from 175 yards away.

    Colin and I decided to take driver out of the bag and go with a 14 degree FWD. It should be arriving soon. I can’t wait. We’ll also making a slight adjustment to the 4 iron – for some reason it doesn’t have quite the same feel, but confident we will figure it out.

    I’m a believer!

    • George

      WOW!! How nice is that for you to be able to achieve what you have with the clubs that Colin fit so well for you and your game!! That is so nice to hear! And it actually sounds like your fitting experience with Colin was like a very nice Christmas present for you!!!

      Thanks so much and we’ll hope that the winter weather in Denver gives you a break from time to time so you can keep playing a little more!


  30. Another benefit of a smaller head is the increased effective length, as measured from the butt end to the center of the club face. Compared to a conventional driver, the 919 F/D and similar clubs like the Titleist F/D’s “play” 3/8″ to 1/2″ longer than a driver of equal length. When pushing the limit of length for squaring up the club this is no small thing. I’ve done much experimenting over the years and learned this via the “way thru the woods” as in “fore right!” I have better than average hand-eye so lean to slightly longer and lighter clubs, but at 5′-6″ cannot square up a 45″ driver consistently. A modern miracle are those tiny gals of the LPGA who appear to be hitting 46″ drivers. But they probably hit more balls in a month than I do all year, at 70 the body just can’t handle it. And there can Magic involved (tongue firmly in cheek) – I hit the sweet spot with the 910FD 3W that is my driving club. Its 44″ with a UST Gold shaft tipped 1/4″, head weight at 211-212 grams. I must be close to optimum for smash factor, the length not a problem as I am borderline on early release. Dead solid perfect I hit a driver a few yards longer, but mis-hits go further with the 3W with the extra roll, and more importantly straighter. A 919 F/D may be on the horizon as I would benefit from 40mm face height (910FD is 36mm). Keep up the good work, Tom, you’re a valuable asset to the golfing community.

  31. Hi Tom:

    I had a great fitting session with Colin Callahan today at Park Hill. We were able to hit outside today which was great on December 5th in Denver. We settled in on the 575 cavity backs with the Black S2S regular shafts 4i-AW. The woods and wedges are something we need to dial in on Sunday when I return. That session will be indoors.

    We are going to choose either the 11 or 14 degree 919 FD; the 16.5 or 18 degree 929HS; the21 degree 929HS or a Hybrid; a PFC Micro WS 56 degree or Vokey 56 degree S Grind; and the PCF Micro Tour 60 degree or the Vokey 60 degree L Grind.

    While inside on Sunday in controlled conditions, can you give me advice on what is most important to pay attention to? Re: Woods – carry distance, roll, spin and/or other factors? Re: Wedges – spin bounce, grind?

    I’m the one comparing Vokey v Wishon and don’t want to have to manipulate the club face to create results i.e. open the face or close the face. I play on firm conditions, but soft bunkers.

    Thanks in advance for your help!!!

    • GEORGE

      Thanks so much for taking the time to write with your questions. Yes for sure from my growing up in Greeley and getting to play a lot in my formative years in the game in the Denver area, I remember that there were always weeks in the winter when you could get out and tee it up. But then there were the weeks when the snow shovel got a good workout too!! Glad to hear you hit a week that was nice!

      The most important “litmus test” in a fitting whether indoors OR outdoors is whether the club(s) FEEL good from a tempo, timing, swing rhythm standpoint as you hit 3, 5, 10 shots and more. While other specific performance elements are important which I will cover, it is very important that the combination of the length + the weighting of the clubs be as good of a fit for YOUR individual sense of swing feel so that you don’t have to “manipulate” or consciously do anything with regard to your tempo, timing and rhythm. With such a feel, this is how fitting helps to improve consistency, help increase on center hit performance, and offer the chance at a higher level of swing repeatability.

      Specific performance wise with woods, you want to see that the smash factor (ball speed divided by clubhead speed) FOR ON CENTER HITS is not going to be lower than 1.45 and ideally as close to the max allowed smash factor of 1.49 as is possible. Of course accuracy and precision of the launch monitor is critical to this so the hope is that Colin has a decent launch monitor that can more accurately measure ball and head speed to be able to see an accurate smash factor. Smash factor over 1.45 means you are as close as you can be to maximizing your distance potential. Others with this would be to see if the launch angle is good for your combination of head speed and angle of attack so you know the shot shape is going to be optimized for your swing, and of course your horizontal dispersion so you can see if the fit is resulting in good accuracy too.

      Wedge wise, this is a little tougher indoors because VERY FEW launch monitors can accurately read spin. But if you hit the Vokeys and ours side by side on the same monitor, even though the actual spin measurements may not be perfectly accurate depending on the type of monitor used, you could get a comparative analysis to see if one spins more than the other. I would say if more spin IS of high priority for you, I would recommend you look at our PCF Micro Tour because it’s not very often any other wedge our there can out spin the PCF. the other thing is how the sole feels traveling through the turf – should be smooth and free moving with no “harsh bouncy jarring feel” – although indoors off a mat, this can be tough to gauge depending on how much the mat turf is close to being like grass.

      Hope this helps and thanks so much for your support !!


  32. Tom, Have been using this head with a tour spec shaft of 43.25″ for about 4 months now & am hitting more fairways without losing any distance from my 460 head.
    It seems to be easier to square up off a tee & really performs off the deck as a fairway metal.
    You have a winner here as with so many of your other heads.
    Use this now instead of the 460 which allows me to carry another hybrid.


    • Louis
      thanks very much for your comments and for sharing your experience with the new 919F/D. That’s really nice to hear that the club is performing well for you and also allows you to put another club in the bag that can help you in other ways in the game!


  33. Tom I especiqe ally enjoyed your video of the “adjustable driver” and since I only have about 20 years experience I always refer to you and some of the “old guys” at Golfsmith from the early days. Many of my playing partners and myself included have lost some zip off the swing and one of my biggest beef with the golf industry is the confusion on the size and the type of head one should buy when purchasing a driver. Your video is a must for the common old joe to watch. I have always at least I hope on tending to put friends and customers in clubs that they can play. Why give anyone something that because this PGA pro hits it well so you think are you going to do the same? I am too old to beat 100’s of golf balls a day to put up PGA numbers and most of the people I see play once to twice a week Now to the point how would yor new diver/fairway wood stack up with moderate swing speed players say mid 80’s to low 90’s? Would loss of distance play much of a fact. I try to guess 43 inches compared to 44-45 inch normal driver. I tell them centerness of hit might improve with a shorter driver and I point to the PGA average of 44 inch or sofor tour players. Could you comment for not just me, but others out there. Thank You your passion still amazes me.

    • Thanks so much for your comments Roger! Everything I do is aimed at trying as hard as I can to just give golfers and clubmakers the most truthful technical information so they can make the best decisions for their equipment needs. Loss of distance for most of us simply comes because we all get to that point that our clubhead speed drops due to the changes in our bodies as we age. Happening to me a little bit now too. The only ways to try to stave off as much distance loss as possible are, 1) engage the services of a good personal trainer to put you on a core strength/flexibility training program which if you commit to, will get back 5mph perhaps a little more, clubhead speed. 2) if that’s not in the cards for whatever reason, then from an equipment basis if the clubhead speed has dropped 8-10mph, going with a higher loft will help. And if you have a reasonably smooth swing tempo, decent control over your timing and rhythm in the swing, and if you have a later release, you can increase driver length to gain some clubhead speed without losing too much control. However, golfers with a more outside in path, more quick tempo, early-ish release just are not going to get much benefit from longer length. Also moving into a much lighter shaft can help increase some speed but this too is usually minimal because most golfers right now use driver shafts that weigh no more than 65g.

      But you are right – if the golfer is more outside in with the path, has a little more quickness in the tempo, then going shorter than the usual std lengths of the off the rack drivers most certainly can improve on center hit percentage which in turn can help make overall distance better than it was with their 45-46 inch driver previously.


  34. Tom, say you were a golfer of average ability (ex: 150 yd/7 iron) hitting a 919 10.5* @ 45″. And this golfer is seeking a club for long par 3’s (200+ yds) because his driver is too long and his 3 wood is unreliable. Would this club be a better choice than a short (44″?) HL 919 driver? This golfer would not be using either off the deck. What should be the guiding factors?


    • Pat
      A big part of the answer has to come from what is it about his 3w that makes the club unreliable for him. Is he as inconsistent with the 3w off the tee as he is for the club being hit off the deck? What is the current length and loft of his 3w? most often when a golfer who can hit a 7 iron 150 yds can’t hit a 3w very consistently it is first because the length is too long for his swing characteristics to be able to control very well, and second because the loft may be a tad too low for his ability to get the ball well up to fly consistently.

      In taking a guess before hearing back from you about these things, my gut feel says if you made the 919F/D-14 loft head to be 42″ to definitely not more than 42 1/2″ in length, and to be sure you get the shaft, total weight and swingweight reasonably well matched to his strength and transition/tempo force, he should be more consistent off the tee with that F/D.


  35. Hello Tom,

    Just a question. Is there any chance of one of the 919 F/D 11-Degree heads to be offered left handed?



    • ZANE:

      Thanks very much for your interest in the new F/D’s. The way I have to do the left hand version decision making is to watch the unit sales of the RH version for at least a half year to see how it goes. Since no LH model ever has sold more than 8% of the units that the RH version will (uncanny how that statistic has never changed in 28 yrs of designing heads) I have to see if the 8% figure is enough to merit the investment in the tooling and inventory in left hand. But I will be honest and tell you that so far the 14 is outselling the 11 version so I will watch this and hopefully the F/D will take off enough to allow the LH version to happen.

      Thanks much !

  36. Tom,
    I need your advice on which fairway wood to purchase. The 919F/D or the 949MC?
    The club is for my son. His SS on his 3 wood is 115. He is looking for a higher launch and low spin 3 wood. His shaft is a 7F5T UST Chrime at 43.75. His current RBZ is a tour head 2.25 open and measured loft of 12.5. Which model can be bent to 12.5 and set at 2 degrees open? His current launch with this club is around 8 degrees and 3300 spin and ball speeds around 170. He has tried TM mini 12 degree which had better launch 11 but spin was still around 3300. Is there a way to achieve at 12 degrees but keep spin around 2500-2600? He wants this club just for the tee. Thanks for your help as too which one to purchase.
    Peter Myrphy

    • Peter

      The 919F/D is primarily designed to be a tee shot clubhead to be assembled at lengths shorter than a driver for use on tight par 4 and 5 holes FAR MORE THAN IT EVER WOULD BE CONSIDERED A FAIRWAY WOOD FOR HITTING SHOTS OFF NORMAL FAIRWAY LIES. That’s because the 919F/D is substantially larger and taller than a typical fairway wood head shape and design. Most golfers might struggle with hitting the size of the F/D off the deck while not so with the smaller size of a fwy wood design. However, even though I do not know the size of the TM mini head you say he has hit off the deck, this smells like it certainly is a head that is larger than a typical fairway wood head. If so then perhaps your son could be comfortable hitting the F/D off the deck.

      I cannot possibly predict the spin characteristics of ANY HEAD for a golfer without seeing his swing and seeing accurate launch reports from hitting other heads of known specifications. Spin is so much more a characteristic of the golfer’s swing (or the shaft and the loft of the head) than it is the head’s center of gravity design. Also, please excuse me because I only wish to help, but way, way too many golfers are obsessed with spin numbers from launch monitors today and completely forget about WATCHING THE SHAPE OF THE BALL FLIGHT.

      Whether a golfer has a too much spin problem is far better known from watching the ball flight shape of the shot than it is from looking at spin numbers off a launch monitor. If the launch monitor is anything but a TrackMan or Flight Scope the spin numbers are going to be suspect because only the phase array Doppler Radar technology of the TM and FS launch monitors can read spin reliably. Not to mention, most shots hit on launch monitors are hit with range balls which will result in different and much more inconsistent spin measurements than the golfer’s real play ball.

      So the question has to go back to you and your son – for these shots that were measured at 3300 rpms, WHAT WAS THE SHAPE OF THE BALL FLIGHT? A proper ball flight shape still can be a very high flight but proper ball flight will not just drop straight down from its apex but will have a little less steep angle of descent to the ground. Currently on tour, average shot height runs anywhere from 90 feet to 120 feet in apex shot height. 120 feet is toweringly high and to some less experienced golfers could look like the ball was spinning too much to get that high – so the KEY is to watch the angle that the shot comes down. If it is not a steep angle down to the ground, then it is fine and the spin numbers are irrelevant.

      But if the 3300 spin shots were very high and then dropping steeply down then that can mean too much spin. Problem is that when you have a high speed player as your son and there is a definite too high/too steep down flight shape, 9 times out of 10 it has to be a swing correction to cure than than a club, shaft or clubhead change. Spin is proportional to speed. A 115 mph clubhead speed with a 3 wood is exceptionally high and will bring higher spin no matter what. Look at the PGA Tour statistics on pgatour.com and you will see all the TrackMan measurements for all the golfers. Look at the guys there with clubhead speeds of 115 to see what their spin is and shot height is and you will see some at 3000 rpms and well over 100 feet high – here are very good swings that still generate higher spin numbers.

      IN the end, I cannot stress enough that you have to watch the shape of the ball flight to know if there is a spin issue far more than to rely on spin numbers from a launch monitor. Hope this helps,

  37. Hi Tom,
    What would the effects of making this club up at perhaps 41″ or 42″. Would there be a significant loss in distance over the 43.5″ length or would the added control negate this.

    • PETER:

      With the headweight of the F/D combined with the fact we put two weight addition chambers on the head, it can be built to pretty much any length from 44″ down to 42″. But 41″ would be tough to reach a normal swingweight. The idea of the head is to offer golfers an alternative to their 3 wood off the tee on tight holes in a head design that has the maximum COR and more off center forgiveness than is possible with a typically much smaller 3 wood head. Given that 3 woods are most typically 43″ in length, that’s the primary length we had in mind with 43 1/2 and 42 1/2 being the next most popular lengths for control over the longer length of a driver.

      Whether you lose much distance as you go shorter depends on one key swing characteristic. If the golfer has a later to very late unhinging of the wrist cock angle, they will lose a few MPH in clubhead speed when dropping from a driver length down to a length in the area of 43″. But if the golfer has more of a midway release to even early release, they won’t drop much clubhead speed at all when they go shorter. For most golfers who have been using a driver length of 44.5″ or longer, going with this F/D at 43″ is a big help for control. So you would not have to go as short as 42 or even think about 41.


    • Hi Tom.
      I finally had the F/D built at 41 inches and have been very pleased with the club.
      There have been no issues with the swingweight it just feels very good in the hand.
      My teaching pro calls it a real”fairway finder” and using it I have hit 70+% of fairways, this is on a very narrow course, and of the fairways that I miss the ball is generally still in play.
      It is also playable of all but the tightest of fairway lies even at its 14*.
      Matched with the White shaft it is a cracking combination.
      Thanks for designing such an easy to hit club that after 8 months in my bag still looks almost new.
      Incidentally on the back of having a shorter shaft in the F/D I have had my Driver fitted with a White shaft and reduced in length to 43″. I am not suffering any perceivable drop in distance and am again hitting most of the fairways that I target with it.
      Thanks once again and keep up the great design work

    • Peter

      Thanks so much for taking the time to share your experience with the 919F/D. That’s superb that you have found the fitting combination for the F/D that has made it a good performer for you!

      Best wishes in this great game,

  38. Hi Tom, I hit my new 919 HL. In Florida and really love it. Ollie did a nice job with the head. I am considering your 919 fairway driver in a 14 degree loft. I have a couple of questions before I ask Ollie to order.

    Should I go with the 55 degree lie Angle like my 919 HL. Which is perfect.

    I am thing of a square face just like my driver as well .

    I would hope Ollie would make it 43 or 43 1/2 inches

    My height is 5 feet 4 inches so shorter the better.

    My new driver if it’s perfect at 44 inches so would it be too short at 43 inches for your fairway driver and should the specs be the same as I described.

    I am having trouble hitting a 13 degree loft from a tight fairway lie so I’m hoping another degree of loft will be helpful. I am guessing the fairway driver will perform every bit as well as your 919 high Launch

    Sorry for all my fragmented questions


    • BOB:
      I wouldn’t feel bad about not being that proficient hitting a driver off the deck! The lie you would choose for a 919F/D would be completely dependent on what length you are going to make the F/D in relation to the length of the 919 driver. If your 919HL is 44″, and if the F/D were to be 43″, then the lie of the F/D would need to be whatever your lie is on the 919HL PLUS ONE DEGREE. You did not state what that actual lie was on the 919HL. But when you go shorter, the lie needs to be 1* more upright than it is at the 1″ longer length of the 919HL.

  39. I prefer a smaller head off the tee so the 919F/D seems like an interesting option. What would you anticipate as far as driving differences in terms of distance compared to your 919 driver? Also would you say a slightly shorter shaft would be in order or a not? I know this depends on your individual fitting and every swing is different, just wondering overall how you would compare and contrast this versus your 919 driver. Thanks!

    • ED:
      Since we have been able to create fairway woods with a high COR since 2004, it is not difficult to make the 919F/D with a high COR face even though it is a smaller size head than the usual big driver head size. Distance is a product of the COR of the face, first and foremost. Then it is a product of the fit of the loft, length, shaft, total weight, swingweight to the golfer’s swing so the golfer can have the right launch angle and have as high of an on center hit consistency as possible for his swing and his ability. We did design the F/D at 208g headweight, so that means it is locked into not being able to be built to a length more than 43 1/2″ with 65g or heavier shafts, or 44″ with very light sub 60g shafts. We did this of course because we see the F/D as a control driver for use on tight holes, or as a longer hitting fwy wood for players who have the skill to consistently hit a head off the deck that is larger than a conventional 3w.

      So for the golfers with a late release, if their current driver were to be 44.5 or longer, they would see a little lower clubhead speed with a 43 1/2″ length which would mean a little less distance than what they would get with a good solid on center hit with their longer length driver. But for golfers who play a 44″ driver or any golfer with an early to midway to slightly later than midway release, if the fitting elements are chosen correctly to match to the golfer’s swing, then they should not see a distance drop from the F/D vs their driver.

      The ONLY thing you do not get with a smaller size head like the 919F/D versus a conventional big driver head is as high of a level of off center hit forgiveness. That is because the F/D is quite a bit smaller than a conventional 450-460cc driver so its MOI cannot possibly be as high to resist off center hit twisting. But then the F/D is to be built to no longer than 43 1/2 so that alone should help reduce the incidence of off center hits over what happens with a longer length driver.


    • Hi Tom, I am 64 years old and I have chronic back and neck pain. So far, I don’t think that the problem has affected my swing appreciably, but I want to take measures to reduce the stress on my spine before it’s too late. Does a driver put more stress on ones back than shorter clubs. Do you think that switching to a 919FD would appreciably reduce stress on my back? I currently use a custom fit 44″ driver. Thanks for listening.
      Bob Barbieri

    • BOB:

      From my experience in fitting research as well as in club performance research, there are two things at play here when we talk about a golfer with back and neck pain and his clubs. On one hand it is true that the longer the length and the heavier the weight of a club, the more stress, the more load the club puts on the golfer and any affected joints that have to rotate or support the motion of the swing. But then you very definitely have a point in which the more the golfer has to bend over during the whole swing, the more real stress is put on the affected joints and parts of the body during the rotation of the swing. I think from my work with people with back pain that #2 is more critical than #1. Meaning I have found that if you can allow the golfer to not have to bend over as much during the whole swing from start to finish, he’ll experience less cumulative effect of repeated swings during a rounnd on his back issues.

      I had a recent example of a golfer close to me, my bro in law. He has been a good player, good athlete, but he has definite back problems such that he could not play a full 18 without having to quit from pain in his back. So I got him into longer length clubs which I also tried to make as light as possible with lighter weight shafts and lighter grips. Lighter headweight is rough because you just can’t easily go grinding weight off heads, especially driver heads. But getting the lengths longer so he could stand more erect, less bent over, did seem to help him. he still experiences discomfort after a round, but he can get through a full round where before he could not. Important to go with this longer length + lighter shaft/grip is also to be sure the lie angles are adjusted properly, typically more flat, to go with the more erect posture with the longer/lighter clubs. Size of the head means nothing with regard to this. it is all in what length allows you to stand more erect and remain more erect through the ball as you turn through to impact – then get it as light as you can using say, 45-55g shafts and 37-40g grips and be sure to have the lies adjusted to fit that new more erect posture through the ball.

      Hope this helps,

Leave a Reply to Ben P Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *