919fd-main919F/D Fairway Drivers

A Superb Fitting Option for More Control on Tight Holes

The 919F/D Fairway Drivers are the answer for players looking for a high COR “mini-driver” or for a tee shot club for use on tight par-4 and par-5 holes for greater control without losing any distance normally achieved with a conventional high COR titanium driver. TWHT’s proprietary bendable hosel allows an extremely wide range in custom fitting specs for loft, lie and face angle.


  • Designed for the golfer who needs more control off the tee or wishes a much smaller size driver head
  • Thin, variable thickness, high strength steel face for high 0.830 COR for maximum distance
  • Bendable hosel for a wide range of fitting options for lie and face angle, +/-4° from spec
  • Can also be played off the fairway by more skilled players who want every bit of second shot distance on long holes
  • Available in RH in 11° and 14° lofts, cosmetically designed to complement the appearance of the 919THI Drivers


A 360º view of the 919F/D Fairway Driver Clubhead.

Ratings and Reviews

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Rating: 4.1/5 (143 votes cast)

919F/D, 4.1 out of 5 based on 143 ratings


  1. I currently use a Cobra M/Speed Offset 3-Wood with an Accra shaft as my driver. I had the shaft installed by my club fitter. I use the 3-wood because my slow swing needs loft for maximum distance. Can the 14-degree Fairway Driver be fitted onto my Accra Shaft?

    • Fred:

      As long as the Accra Shaft has a tip diameter of 0.335″ which is most likely, it can be removed from the other head and installed in the 919F/D with no problems. As to what length it would come out to be, that depends on the difference in the distance from the bottom of the shafting bore to the ground between the two clubheads. That is something a competent clubmaker should know about to be able to allow for any differences there might be in this dimension in the two heads.


  2. Tom,

    Thank you for answering all of my questions, especially in a timely manner.

    Does the F/D have any amount of face progression? I couldn’t find the measurement. As mentioned before, I own a 12 degree model that is 1 degree open and the face progression seems minimal.

    Thanks as always.

    • BEN

      To give you a frame of reference, the FP of the 919THI 11* loft driver is 19mm. The FP of the 919F/D-11* model is 17mm and the FP of the 929HS #3wood is 16mm. As a designer I only see FP as a visual aspect of the head that has to be matched to the size of the head. In very, very minute terms only with players who have a very late release, more FP on a head can contribute to a slightly higher trajectory for any given loft while less FP is the opposite. But these things are so very, very slight that 99.9% of all golfers don’t experience that and only view FP as a visual aspect that they like or dislike about the clubheads. Therefore, I do not see it has having any contribution on its own to performance other than how it looks to the golfer and how that can breed a level of confidence which can then result in better performance indirectly. But the look of a head is huge to many players so you do have to take that into account. For example, making a driver with only 12mm FP would really turn off a ton of players while making a driver with 22-23mm FP would as well look very odd. That’s why for most 450-460cc size drivers you see the FP existing between a narrow range from around 17-20mm, not usually more and not usually less. But as you go smaller with the head size, you do need to reduce the actual FP to obtain a similar look because the small size of a head most definitely tricks the eye when you look down on it in the playing position.


  3. Hi Tom,

    Does the hosel bore open up to the sole of the club? I am wondering how I can get hotmelt to that area, mostly for sound purposes.

    Thank you.

    • Ben

      All metal woods regardless of maker are manufactured so there is a small hole in the bottom of the bore that will open up into the open cavity of the head. The head production factories do this so they can inject a special “sticky glue” into the heads that is intended to catch and hold small particles that may break loose from inside the head during the life of the club. All makers of metal woods do have a stopper plug installed in the bottom of the bore to close off that access hole so when a shaft is installed, epoxy from the installation will not ooze into the open cavity of the head to eventually break loose and cause a rattle. So to access this hole at the bottom of the bore, you would need to remove that stopper plug. In all my heads this stopper plug is at the bottom of the hosel weight bore which is a secondary bore of 7.5mm diameter located directly below the 8.6mm shafting bore. Doing that can be done with a thin sharp ended probe to “lance” it and pull it out or to drill it out with a 9/32 drill bit. Either way the existing stopper plug will probably be damaged so would not be able to be re installed. In that case when you re shaft the clubhead, you would want to be VERY CAREFUL not to let any of the epoxy ooze down into the head. Which means installing the shaft with the head UP and letting the shaft cure with the club horizontal.


  4. Tom,
    I have the F/D and I just noticed there is a tubular hollow near the toe end on the underside of the club. It seems that there was a sort of cover for the hole, but the cover is no longer there. Ironically, the club whistles in the key of D along with the Doppler effect when swung, Ha, and that is how I discovered that there was this hole in the club. Would you explain to me what the purpose of this void is for?
    Thank you,
    BTW, love the club.

    • Jarrod

      that is one of the two weight bore chambers in the head which are there to enable the clubmaker to add weight to the head to get it to the swingweight or head feel that best fits each golfer’s strength + swing tempo and sense of headweight feel for good timing and rhythm in the swing. The other weight bore is below the tip of the shaft in the hosel. The weight bore on the toe end of the sole is covered by a little oval shaped medallion with an adhesive back. Unfortunately it sounds like it just gave way and came loose. You can go to the clubmaker who made the club if he is in your area and ask him to replace it. If that is impossible, send me your mailing address to tww@wishongolf.com and I will mail you one. It has a peel off backing that covers the adhesive. It is best to put a tiny toothpick dab of epoxy onto the flat surface, then peel off the paper hack off the medallion and then press it into place. Let the epoxy dry and you’re ready to go.


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