929HS Fairway Woods

Shallow Face, High COR Face Design for Distance with Ease of Playability
New Soft Stainless Hosel Allows Custom Lie and Face Angle Fitting


  • 304 Stainless Steel Hosel is separately welded to the body to enable ease in bending for a wide range of custom lie and face angle bending (+/-4°)
  • 31mm Shallow Face Height is ideal for golfers who play off firm, short grass fairways orfor golfers who need more confidence getting the ball well up to fly
  • HS 350 High Strength Steel Thin Face allows for a high COR for increased ball speed and superb off center hit performance
  • Reduced Face-to-Back Sole Width reduces the sole to ground contact for more consistent contact with the ball, even from the rough
  • Available in RH in #2 (12°), #3 (14°), #4 (16.5°), #5 (18°), #7 (21.5°) and #9 (24.5°) in Left hand #3 (15°), #5 (18.5°) and #7 (21°)

A 360º view of the 929HS Clubhead.

Tom Wishon talks about the 929HS Fairway Wood.

Ratings and Reviews

VN:F [1.9.22_1171]
Rating: 4.0/5 (80 votes cast)


929HS, 4.0 out of 5 based on 80 ratings


  1. Hi Tom,

    I am trying to select a fairway wood from your options and I am looking for the least amount of face progression. I like to look down on a clubhead that looks “open”, or at least that’s how I perceive the look of the club.

    I need some clarification on the difference between face progression and face angle.

    So if the face progression of the 14 degree 3 wood is 14mm with a square face angle, would the face progression change if you bent or selected the same club head with a 1 degree open face angle?

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I currently play the 919 F/D at 12 degrees as my driver at 1 degree open. I love everything about this club, especially looking down soled behind the ball. I would like to add a 16 and 19 degree fairway to complete my wood set. Just trying to select the right one. Thank you!

    • BEN

      Face progression is the horizontal plane distance from the center of the hosel bore to the leading edge at the bottom of the face. If the face sticks out more in front of the shaft, there is more face progression on the head than if the face does not. This term is also confused with offset. The two are similar but defined differently. Offse is the horizontal plane distance from the FORWARD WALL of the hosel to the leading edge at the bottom of the face.

      Face angle is what direction the face points when you rest the driver, wood or hybrid to sit on its sole. Creating an open or closed face angle requires you to design and make the head so the center line of the hosel bore is NOT perpendicular to the sole plane as it rests on the ground. Square face woods are when this angle is square or at 90*.

      So when you set a club on the ground and you look at the bottom of the face and you see that it either sticks out more or less from the shaft, you are seeing the face progression. But when you sole the head and see that it wants to point to the left or the right, that’s the face angle showing itself. FP and FA are two totally different elements not related to each other in performance or in design.

      If you bend a driver, wood or hybrid to be more open or closed it does not technically change the face progression. But it can look that way to the eye which can fool you. for example, if you bend a head more open, you now have pulled the toe side of the head BACK a little which can make it seem the FP is reduced. But the heel side of the face is still out there the same distance in front of the hosel bore center line so the FP does not change.

      Hope this helps,

  2. Morning Tom,

    May I ask your advice?

    I have recently bought a 4 wood 929HS which I am very happy with. It hasn’t been optimised by a club fitter yet, but it will be.

    The 4 wood carries an average of 200yds, and it does on some shots go a touch longer and run into the bank on the range at 240yds. So distance is plenty.

    I lack confidence on long distance shots, but have the strength and speed to ‘get out there’. It’s mostly a mental thing. I know my average iron swing is 94mph, I’m not sure about wood/driver speed as I am new to using them.

    At the moment I tend to err on the safe side for distance and use an 5 iron (I play Sterling 5-LW) for teeing off, but do have a 3 hybrid (785HF) being made.

    So, sorry if this is long winded……

    I’m thinking of just mastering the 4 wood as my ‘driver’ as the distance is very good in my opinion, and it’s very controllable and accurate. It’s also excellent off the deck.

    But, if I was to look at something longer, what are your thoughts on the following:

    929HS 12 deg 2 wood
    (My thoughts are that it’s the same swing to groove as the 4 wood, so I’m grooving one swing for woods, one swing for Sterlings. KISS – Keep It Simple Stupid!)

    919FD 11 deg,

    or 919THI 11 deg?

    I appreciate your thoughts, and understand that you are busy.

    Thank you



      Thanks for taking your time to ask your questions. Seriously it is not long winded and I am always happy to help. I’m pleased to hear that you are doing well with the new 4w and irons. From what you say about the 4w, you seem to not have any accuracy issues there so it sounds to me like you just need to spend some more time hitting shots both on course and on the range to build your confidence and find out how much you could push it with your swing before you know what tempo seems to result in the best overall consistency with adequate distance and accuracy. If you were saying that you lose some control when you swing a little more aggressively with the 4w, I would suggest you perhaps shorten it by 1/2″ or 3/4″ and then re swingweight it to be sure it has enough head feel during the swing.

      But you don’t seem to be saying that you have any such issue so we’ll just suggest you leave things alone for now with the 4w. It sounds like the 3 hybrid will fit the slot in between your Sterling 5 iron and the 4 wood. Just be sure not to get that hybrid made too long. 39″ should be about the max for that unless you are really tall with relatively shorter arms for your height.

      As to a better tee shot club over the 4w, if for sure you plan that club to be ONLY used off the tee, then I would suggest the 919THI driver. For a driver you want the club to hit the ball as far as your swing speed can allow, but with decent control so you are not hunting for balls in the woods. You did not say what length your 4w is, but as a starting point with the driver, I would recommend having it made to be 1″ longer than the 4w, not more than that. And duplicating the swingweight of the 4w for now since it seems from what you say that the 4w must be relatively ok for swingweight/head weight feel since you hit it ok.

      If you do decide to go with the 919THI as the actual driver for tee shots, then there really is no need for thinking about either the 2w or the F/D. They are only a consideration if you absolutely dislike the size of the 919THI driver head. And believe me, among all 450cc size driver heads, I think that I balanced the width and breadth of the 919THi so it just does not look as large as so many of the other driver heads on the market today. But that’s always up to you and you only in your decision making. So if you do not really have any psychological predisposition against the larger driver heads over the smaller heads like the F/D, then go with the 919THI.

      Thanks so much for your interest and the very best to you in this great game,

    • *Follow up*

      Hello Tom,

      Thanks for your previous advice. I wanted to follow up:

      I now have a complete set of Sterling irons 4-LW, (Nippon 950GH S Flex shafts) I prefer the 4 to the hybrid after playing both.
      Still loving playing them, and i get many compliments as to how nice they look.

      I have two 929HS woods and they are a dream to play!

      4 wood, 42″, D2, Nippon 950 FW S flex steel shaft.

      7 wood, 41″, D7?, Nippon 950 FW S flex steel shaft.

      The 4 wood is consistently good for 220yds, and the 7 wood 190yds. Beautiful high flight and quick stop. Very nice looking heads, and the shallow face height suits me. I’m tempted to get a full set of the 929s just for the hell of it, I like them that much.

      The 7 is especially good for long par 3’s.

      I had a set of Bang square headed woods (3,5,7) previously which are excellent, but the 929HS are even better.

      I also have a 11° and 14° 919FD (Stylish)but they are a side project for the time being as I was experimenting with shafts (like you do….!)

      So, long story short (Sorry), I just bought a preloved 919THI 9° driver, S2S Black 85 gram S flex shaft, not sure on length as I haven’t measured, but I’m finding the sweet spot ok. BUT timing is off, as it feels a little soft. You previously advised to settle in with the 4 wood and then get a driver an inch longer at the same SW. The 4 wood is fantastic at the specs above so I would like to fit a Nippon 950 FW S flex steel shaft to the 919THI, and so the SW would be D2, the length 43″. Do you see any issues with this in steel shaft? I got a raised eyebrow when asking for the 929s to be steel shafted, but I could get a better fit in graphite if I tried.

      Would 43″ be ok/long enough for the 919THI? My brain is saying 44″, but I trust your knowledge.

      Thanks in advance for your advice on the matter.

      All the best,


    • MATT

      For the vast majority of golfers, if they have solid experience in using a shaft model and flex in a fwy wood and like it a lot, it is the shaft of choice for the driver without question. It’s only natural for people to think odd of a player using steel in the driver and woods since the market share for steel in woods is something like 1.5% ! For players like you who tend to do better with a little heavier weight shaft in the woods to get the total weight of the clubs up there a little more, going with steel and especially one like this 95 gram Nippon shaft is a good choice. At 95g (and it is a little lighter when trimmed and installed) you would be at the higher weight end of graphite for wood shafts. But it has always been a fact that players who feel that lighter weight wood shafts make the club feel too light will always be better off with a heavier weight shaft.

      As to the length, if you hit the woods now pretty consistently straight with no chronic bouts of misdirection, then start with this driver at 44″. You can always go down from there if you feel that you are having some control or solid impact problems at the 44″ length. At 44″ that is still far shorter than the ridiculous 45-46″ length of all the big companies’ off the rack drivers.

      Hope this helps and do have a great season in this great game,

  3. Hi Tom,

    I’m interested in trying to create a set of fairway woods using single-length principles and I have a few questions about the suitability of these.

    The 12° 16.5° and 21° clubs from the 929hs range would seem to fit my plans in terms of loft, but I’m unsure how feasible it is to adjust them to be uniform in length, lie and weight.

    I see that lie angle can be bent +/- 4° with each of the heads on the 929hs, so I assume it would be relatively easy to get uniform lie angles across the 3 clubs. But I also see that the headweights differ by about 25g between the 12° and the 21° heads.

    I see from the specs above you can add weights to both the hosel and the sole, but it doesn’t give an indication of how much weight. Can the 25g difference between the 12° and 21° head be overcome through additional head weighting? And if so, will this impact the play-ability of the club?

    Presumably if the headweight and lie angle are the same across the three different heads, the final element is the picking of a common shaft length, that has the desired swing weight when combined with the heads?

    Sorry for the abundance of questions, I hope you can help!

    Kind regards,


    • DAN

      Pretty much all the answers to your question about using the 929HS wood heads for a single length set depend on what length you would want these to all be. And that is a huge decision because if you go too short trying to make them all easy to hit, you may very well lose distance with the 12 and 16.5* woods versus the distance you get from other fairway woods of those lofts made to normal lengths. And then if you make them longer to get back the clubhead speed to prevent them from being shorter in distance, then you have a situation to deal with in terms of what longer length is too long for you and your swing characteristics and ability. So I need more information to really help you – I need to know your handicap, your clubhead speed with the driver, your misdirection tendency of slice/hook and how much you slice or hook on average, your wrist to floor measurement, an evaluation of your tempo, an evaluation of whether you release the club early, midway or late. To make this easier to communicate you can send this info to me at tww@wishongolf.com at your convenience.


  4. Tom,

    I am getting ready to get a set of the Sterling irons and will be looking at getting some fairway woods to compliment them. I will most likely be going with a 4 and 7 wood so I was just wondering if it is possible, with 2 weight ports and minor lie adjustment, to make any of your 4 and 7 woods to play at the same length (i.e. 7 wood length)? I also know that you are currently working on “real” same length fairway woods, is there any word on estimated release date for them?



    • BILL

      I am working on a single length wood concept to go with the irons but I am dragging my feet a bit on the project for several reasons, not the least of which is the effect of being semi retired these days !! HA ! I need to make that be SEMI retired so there is more emphasis on the SEMI, which means I need to keep working more !! Actually I am still working on trying to figure out the lengths I want these woods to be fit and built to be so that has been causing some of the delay. At any rate we are looking at spring 2018 for these probably for the formal launch with a chance the soft launch could be this winter. But with the twin weight bores in any of our fairway woods, you can do some math and make it work for both a 4 and 7 wood to be the same length.


    • Tom,

      Thanks for the update. Trust me I know the “semi” retired thing, retired from the Navy and got 2 weeks off before the other half had me back at work, and that was 9 years ago.


    • Hi Tom,

      Happy New Year!
      In this conversation you mentioned about the possibility of introducing the single length woods to complement Sterling irons in Spring 2018.

      Is there any update on it?


    • Thank you !! And may you and your family have a superb year in 2018 !!

      I’m sorry to say that there won’t be a single length set of Sterling woods – at least this year anyway. I just was unable to find a length that could allow a wide range of golfers to get enough distance from the 3w and 4w while not being too long for the highest loft woods. I had wanted to do this at a length of 39.5″ but unless the golfer had a driver swing speed of 95mph or more, that length was too short for being able to achieve proper distance with the 3w and 4w, even using a high COR face on the heads. And if we went longer such as 40.5″-41″ to get more clubhead speed with the 3w and 4w for better distance, now the higher loft woods I wanted to have in the set ended up being too long and more difficult to control from an accuracy standpoint.

      So I tabled the design for now and have begun to think more along the lines of a single length hybrid set which I am just experimenting with. Sorry, I had higher hopes for the woods but it just did not work out to my satisfaction for what I wanted for as broad of a market of golfers as possible.


  5. Hi there, I am looking for recommendations for the best options for Woods and Irons for juniors transitioning out for the Future Pro Junior Heads. Your expertise and time are most appreciated!!

    • HI Andrew:

      Thanks very much for your question. Depending on the junior’s age and skill level, but assuming that you are thinking about trying to avoid jumping totally into a large adult clubhead model, (and keeping costs in mind too) I would recommend thinking about the 365PF fairway woods. yes the 929’s are fine because they are a more shallow face design, but the 365’s are not tall faced at all and as you go from 4 to 5 to 7 to 9 wood in the set, the head sizes shrink progressively. Plus the 365 is a 2-pc investment cast stainless head so it is less expensive than the 929 which has the high strength steel thin face construction. Irons wise, I would lean toward the 979 – they too are not all that large and being 1-pc cast stainless they are also more cost effective. For a driver, cost is still there because of the high COR face nature of every driver made. But I might lean toward the 919 F/D since it is smaller in size than the typical 450-460cc size drivers like our 919THI.

      Hope this helps, and best wishes in this great game to you and the junior player !

    • If you are considering going to adult size heads, Sterling irons are the only game in town. Why learn – and keep in tune – 9 different iron swing setups when one is enough?

    • Thank you Tom Wishon!

    • Thanks so much Tom, we are going to look at the 365PF’s. We are actually setting up Junior Custom Fitting here in Malaysia. When transitioning juniors what is the most likely best option for shafts in the irons and woods? S2S Green?


    • ANDREW

      Yes, I would put the S2S Green graphite shaft as a very good transition shaft for juniors between the actual junior shaft and an adult shaft. This is a pretty light shaft at 65g and it would be lighter yet as you cut it down to the lengths you might use for some of these kids. It is also a more flexible bend profile with a softer tip design too, which would be ok for kids with slower swing speeds that are higher than what a Jr shaft requires but still lower than a slow swinging adult.


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *