950HC Fairway woods

Traditional Shape and Face Height, High COR Design… For Distance with Penetrating Shot Trajectory. 


  • The new 950HC is the second generation version of the 949MC with a traditional shape and size with 34mm face height and bendable hosel to offer custom lie and face angle fitting options to fit all golfers
  • New semi-cup face construction to ensure maximum COR and offer a better level of off-center forgiveness in a fairway wood design

  • Twin weight bores for a wide range in length, shaft weight, swingweight fitting options

  • Available in RH in #3 (14.5°), #4 (16.5°), #5 (18°), #7 (21°) and 9 wood (24.5°) to expand the fitting options for players.   Gloss metallic black with satin chrome face, sole and hosel.



Tom talks about the 950HC

Ratings and Reviews

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Rating: 3.7/5 (103 votes cast)


950HC, 3.7 out of 5 based on 103 ratings


  1. Are these available nowadays in left handed. I need a good 3 wood. I just got the Sterling one lengths and absolutely adore them. Have never ever hit the ball this well and consistent. Thank you.


    • DALLAS

      Many thanks for your visit to our comments section and even more pleased to hear that your experience with the Sterling Irons has been so good. for a designer being able to hear something like that is really better than the fun of designing clubs in the first place! Very sorry to say that the 950’s never made it into a left hand version. Whether a model can make that jump always depends on the demand being high enough for the right hand model. Never in all my years of designing heads have I seen a left hand model sell more than 8% of what it does in the right hand form. So very sad to say it is a math situation as to whether a model makes it into left hand. In the case of the fairway woods, the 929HS woods are much more popular than the 950s because of the less tall face height of the 929 making it easier for a wider range of players to get well up to fly for max distance. We do have the 929HS in left hand but it is a 31mm face height while the 950 #3 wood is 34mm tall. So if this face height is ok for your taste in looking down on the head in the playing position, then the 929 would be a good suggestion for you.

      Thanks again and the very best to you in this great game,

    • I think the 929 would be a great 3 wood and am thankful it is offered in LH.
      One more question Tom, as you have been very kind answering these questions, and I am very thankful that you can share your vast knowledge in club making.

      The 919THI Driver comes in LH at 11 degrees. I read somewhere that it is possible to lower that loft by 1 or 2 degrees. Is that correct? I am working right now on what my specific loft should be for a driver.

      I have had such a great experience with the Sterling Irons that I cannot imagine the Drivers and woods being nothing short of superb as well. Thank you for your time. Dallas

  2. Good Day Tom! I hope this message finds you well. I have started making clubs for myself, wife and son. I was able to get a set of the S2S white iron and wood shafts. I also was able to get a friend to send me a set of the Sterling single length 8 iron lie heads. Since this is my first time with these irons can you tell me what length to cut the Raw S2S shaft ?
    I know that the shaft should be 36.5″ but what would it be raw length before installation ?

    Many Thanks,
    Cebu, Philippines.

    • Dave:

      Good for you that you have begun to build clubs for your family’s needs! I can imagine where you live that it would be far better to be able to do your own work, not to mention regardless where you are it can be a lot of fun both to do the work and to experiment with the results.

      When building ANY set of irons, you always do the tip trim for each shaft first. Then you abrade the tips, install the ferrules, and slam the shafts into the hosels to push the tip to the bottom of the bore and push the ferrule up into proper final position. THEN you measure for the playing length, mark where you are to cut the butt end, and then you cut the butt of the shaft. You NEVER EVER cut both ends of the shaft before installing the shaft because there will always be a +/- tolerance for the bore depth in every model of head you ever work on. If you fully pre cut the shafts from both ends before installation you will end up with the lengths being wrong due to the tolerance for the bore depth.

      In a single length set made to an 8 iron length, ALL of the shafts are tip trimmed as if they are all being installed in an 8 iron. Then you do everything like I described in the above paragraph. In the end, due to the normal +/- tolerance for bore depth the actual length of the fully cut shafts can be a little different even though all the final playing lengths would be the same.

      Let me also help you with some nomenclature about shafts so you have that straight. RAW SHAFT LENGTH is of course the length of a shaft with nothing cut from either end. CUT SHAFT LENGTH is the length of a shaft after it has been tip trimmed and butt trimmed for playing length. PLAYING LENGTH is the length of the golf club with the shaft tip trimmed, butt trimmed for length, and the shaft installed so the tip is fully seated to the bottom of the bore. There is no such term as SHAFT LENGTH in clubmaking when it comes to referring to shafts, only these three terms I described above.

      Thanks so much for your interest and I am here to help whenever you need it,

    • Thanks Tom for all your help.
      Just to be clear you mentioned
      “When building ANY set of irons, you always do the tip trim for each shaft first.”
      What length is the tip trim for the 8 iron length shaft ?
      Please forgive my ignorance here. My learning curve is all up hill.

    • DAVE:

      There is not a single standard for tip trimming for each head for each shaft in the industry. It can vary due to the construction and design of each shaft model so you always have to reference each shaft maker’s tip trim and installation charts that they provide on their websites or in their catalogs if they still print a catalog. For all of our shafts, we keep all this information on line here – http://wishongolf.com/s2s-shaft-trimming-chart/ . The tip trim for an 8 iron with the White R, White S, Black R, Black S, Blue A, Blue R, Superlite R, Superlite S, Stepless R, Stepless S would be 3″. For the White A, Blue AA, the tip trim for an 8 iron is 2 1/4″. For the shafts made by all the other companies, you should go to their website and you’ll find a section for tip trimming instructions to refer to.


  3. Hey there TOM, how are you?

    I have a 949MC 14 degree and LOVE it… the feel and the performance are excellent. The only negative, it’s an older model and not your updated 2014 model (no second weight bore on the sole).

    Because of this I am looking at your 950HC as a replacement. Since I am a Sterling Irons lifer, I am looking to make the fairway woods shorter and of course keep it at a decent swingweight … so, the 950HC should be perfect for my needs.

    I just wanted to ask about the sole weight bore. Does this accept the same weight plugs that are used in the hosel? I have some 9gand a couple 6g that a friend helped me with when assembling my Sterlings.

    I was hoping (praying actually) that these plugs were able to be used in both 950HC weight bores as well…? I’m looking to get the #3/14.5 degree down to 42″ and since I use a pretty thick grip, I’ll need to use both weight bores.

    Thanks in advance for your help and support,

    Jake 🙂

    P.S. I’m having a new 18 degree 590DIH reamed to .370 right now, and I’m assembling a 44″ 919thi. Other then the putter, I’m proud to say my bag is ALL Wishon!

    • Hi Jake, doing fine these days, thank you !

      It’s really nice to hear you are solid behind some of my designs for your game. That’s really great to hear and I thank you so much for your support! Yes, the weight plugs used in the hosel are the same ones to be used in the sole weight bore that is covered with the little TW medallion. Just be sure to epoxy the weight into the bore and also when you install the medallion, put a tiny little dab of epoxy on the flat surfaces, peel off the paper backing on the medallion and press it into place. It’s a small medallion so there is not a ton of adhesive surface there to stick to the chrome surface of the top ledge of the weight bore so a tiny little dab of epoxy will keep that medallion in place.

      Thanks much for stopping by and the very best to you in this great game!

    • Thanks SO MUCH for your reply TOM… awesome support, as usual! Very happy to hear that I can use those weight plugs and setup a new 950HC club in place of my (beloved)949MC.

      I’ll putting the 590DIH into action Thursday morning. It’s gonna be looooooong next couple of days, lol!

      Thanks again TOM,

      Jake 🙂

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