775HS Hybrid Irons

A Unique Hybrid Design with Thin Face, High COR Performance and a Unique Soft Stainless Steel Hosel for a Wide Range of Lie and Face Angle Fitting Options


  • Thin, High COR, High Strength HS350 Steel Alloy Face offers higher ball speed for more distance in a hybrid head design.  Few companies can offer a high COR design in a hybrid
  • Unique 304 Stainless Steel Hosel allows for much greater ease in bending lie and face angle to broaden custom fitting options (+/-4°)
  • Split Level, Narrowed Sole Width to reduce sole to turf contact for more solid shotmaking from fairway or rough conditions
  • 775HS Face Progression is in between that of an Iron and Fairway Wood to enable golfers to play the 775HS with the same ball position and swing motion as an iron of the same loft
  • Available in RH in #2, 3, 4, 5, 6,  LH in #3

A 360º view of the 775HS Clubhead.

Tom Wishon talks about the 775 HS Hybrid.

Ratings and Reviews

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Rating: 4.0/5 (98 votes cast)


775HS, 4.0 out of 5 based on 98 ratings


  1. Hi Tom,
    Been playing your Sterling irons the last year and I haven’t golfed better. Thinking about adding a 775HS to go above my Sterling 5 hybrid. Shafts in my Sterlings are the S2S Superlight Steel at 37″. Would you recommend this same shaft for the 775, or a different one? Reading these posts, it looks like you recommend a starting length of 2″ more than the Sterlings…so I should be looking at 39″, correct? I like hybrids better than woods…so how would a 2 and a 3 hybrid both at 39″ sound? My SS is right around 80 – 85 mph with the Sterlings. I actually have the 5 iron and 4 iron. When I hit them nice and pure, I hit them great and far…I just seem to like/hit that 5 hybrid better.

    • KEVIN

      since the hybrid(s) would be made longer than the single length irons, you would not be compelled to use the same iron shaft in the hybrids. I do not intend to set up any such guideline of +2″ longer than the irons for the hybrids. Much of that has to do with the golfer’s clubhead speed and swing skills – mainly meaning that going too long is not good for anyone. And with your speed you have enough to make the hybrids work well distance wise at less than a 39″ length. You’ll want to be sure the distance gap between your 37″ long #5 iron and the #3 hybrid is not too much. So going with something like 38.25″ for the #3 hybrid should give you a decent gap from the 5 iron. Then you could do the #2 longer since you are looking at it more as a fwy wood replacement. If you wanted both hybrids to be the same length so those two had the same swing feel, then at that point probably 39″ would be ok. But with only two hybrids, there really is not that much of a compelling argument to make both hybrids the same. Single length irons tend to do their thing better because you have 6, 7 or 8 clubs that would all be identical.


    • Well, Tom, you did it again. Perfect suggestion! I went with the Hybrid white shaft to 38.5 inches, since I choke down a little. Perfect distance from my sterling 5 iron/hybrid, 12 – 15 yards. So, if I were to go to a 2 hybrid, trying to get another 12 – 15 yards gap…would you suggest to lengthen shaft to 38.75 – 39???

    • KEVIN
      Very glad to hear the recommendation worked out. It helps to have been to a few rodeos in my LONG life in golf equipment technology when it comes to sensing what to recommend for golfers !! For the #2 hybrid, if you find that you are hitting the 38.5″ hybrid plenty high, then you can go with 39.25″ at 3* lower loft than the 38.5″ hybrid.

  2. Hi Tom:
    In order to have a 4hybrid for mi set of Sterlings, would it be possible to bend de 3 775 Hybrid:

    – Loft: close it to 20
    – Lie: from 59 to 63 (as 4* are the maximum you recommend)
    – Cut the shaft to 37 inches
    – Put some weight on the hosel weight bore and the sole weight bore

    By doing this, I should have the perfect 4 Hybrid for my set make up.

    What do you think?

    Is this advisable?



    • Luis

      We do not bend hybrids, fairway woods or drivers for loft changes. The bendable hosel on these types of clubhead models in our product line is used to change the Lie Angle or the Face Angle or both. It’s complicated to explain, but bending a hybrid/wood/driver head is totally different than bending an iron in terms of what spec gets changed when you bend the hosel either forward or back in relation to the face.

      In an iron, we golfers are always taught to position and HOLD the clubhead so the leading edge and face are square to the target line. When you do that, a bend of the hosel forward will increase the loft and a bend of the hosel back will lower the loft. Hybrids/Woods/Drivers are different because they all have a much, much wider sole than do irons. We golfers are usually taught to rest the hybrid/wood/driver on its sole when we set up to hit a shot. When you do that a bend of the hosel forward will change the face angle more closed while a bend of the hosel back will make the face angle to be more open.

      The only way a bend of the hosel forward or back on a hybrid/wood/driver can change loft is if the golfer intentionally HOLDS THE HEAD OFF THE GROUND WITH THE FACE POSITIONED SQUARE TO THE TARGET. For a driver this can be done because the ball is on a tee off the ground. But with a hybrid or wood, hovering the head off the ground makes it harder to hit a shot when the ball is sitting on the ground. It’s possible to do, but it is harder to do.

      So when someone needs to have a hybrid/wood/driver with a loft different than the design spec for the head, we sort through all the inventory to measure and look for a head with a loft either +1 over the spec loft or -1 under the spec loft. ALL HEADS made by EVERY FOUNDRY ON THE PLANET are subject to a normal tolerance of +/-1* from the spec loft of the head. Not very many are a full +1 or -1 from the spec, but if you measure enough heads you can find one here or there. So we do offer a HAND SELECT PROGRAM whereby clubmakers can special order any of our hybrid, wood or driver models with a loft that is hand picked and measured to be +1/2*, +1*, -1/2* or -1* from the spec. Thus for the 775 #3 hybrid, you would ask for a hand select for the #3 head with 20* loft. Spec is 21 so it should be possible to find one at 20*.

      But if you try to build the 775 #3 at a length of 37″, even with the two weight bores on the head, you would not be able to get enough weight into the head to bring the swingweight up to normal levels. Spec length for the 775 #3 is 39″. The two weight bores would allow hitting a normal swingweight at 38″, but 37″ would be too short and require more weight to be added to reach a normal swingweight than is possible to add through the two weight bores.


  3. Dear Tom:

    I am considering buying a set of sterling irons and I am would like to know how short would it be possible to cut the shaft of the 775 HS hybrid.

    I am not sure I am buying the iron 4 from the Sterling but in any case I will need an hybrid. I would like them to be as short as possible.

    Assuming this: what would be the minimum shaft lenght for a hybrid 4/3/2?

    In addition, how would you do the set regarding sterlings and 775 HS?

    Thank you very much in advance and best regards.

    • Luis

      As a word of caution and advice, to be able to hit the Sterling #4 iron high enough to carry farther than the #5 iron or #5 hybrid, a golfer needs to have a clubhead speed of not less than 85mph with his present 7 iron. At clubhead speeds below 85mph, the shorter single length of 36.5 or 37″ will not generate enough ball speed and backspin with the #4 iron loft of 19* to enable the shot to get high enough to fly and carry farther than the 5 iron. If you were to use the model 775HS #3 hybrid with its standard loft of 21* as an alternative to the Sterling #4 hybrid, the shortest you could make the 775-3 with a graphite hybrid shaft and have it come out to a normal swingweight would be 38.5″. And with that length, you would still be using a 9 gram weight in both the hosel weight bore and the sole weight bore.

      Let me explain how we advise golfers when choosing their set makeup with the Sterling Irons and other hybrids above the irons: If the golfer has a late release, a handicap under 9 and has a current 7 iron clubhead speed of 85mph or higher, we recommend the #4 iron to SW for the iron set makeup. Above the #4 iron the golfer can use either an 18* hybrid of 39.5 to 40″ length or he could use an 18-19* #5 wood made to a length of 40 to 40.5″. If the golfer has a midway to later release, a handicap of 9 or higher and a current 7 iron clubhead speed of 78 to 84 mph, we recommend the #5 iron or #5 hybrid to the SW in the Sterling Irons. Then above the #5 in the Sterling Irons would come a hybrid of 20 to 21* loft at a length of either 38 to 38.5″. Then above that hybrid could come a 5 wood of 18-19* loft at a length of either 40 to 40.5 to even 41″.

      If the golfer has a midway release, a handicap of 9 or higher and a current 7 iron clubhead speed of 71-77 mph, we recommend the Sterling Iron set be from the #6 iron to SW. Above the #6 iron would be a hybrid of 23-24* loft at a length of 38 to 38.5″. Above that hybrid would then be a 7 wood of 21-22* loft at a length of 39 to 40″. And then above that 7 wood could be a 5 wood at 18* loft at a length between 40-41″. If the golfer’s current 7 iron clubhead speed is under 70mph, then the Sterling Iron set should likely be from the #7 iron to the SW. Above the 7 iron would be a hybrid of 27-28* loft at a length between 37.5 and 38″. Then above that could come a hybrid of 23-24* loft at a length between 38 and 38.5″. And above that could be a 7 wood of 20-21* loft at a length between 39 to 40″.

      I hope this helps and I hope this answers your questions. Thanks again so much for your interest,

  4. Hi Tom,

    The more I become familiar with your designs and ‘design firsts,’ the more I think you should be in the World Golf Hall of Fame. While some of your designs seem timeless, I look forward to seeing what you come up with next, now that you are unencumbered with daily business management.

    Also, thanks for sharing your insights. I feel greatly indebted, and have learnt so much based on all of what you’ve shared over the years.

    So, a question for you now on reaming the hosel of the 775HS hybrids to be able accept a .370 iron shaft to create a matching hybrid/iron set.

    I do understand that Diamond Golf will do the boring for a small fee. However, I also want to be able to offer this service as needed for my customers, as I like to stock some heads in advance of sale. So, is there any issue boring the hosel on the 775s directly from .335 to .370, or should one first bore the hosel to .355 and then a second bore to .370?


    • LEE

      Many thanks for your nice comment about my work. Much appreciated although I think the WGHF focuses on players and not industry folks !! But the kind thought is appreciated for sure !

      First off you need one of these – https://www.golfworks.com/reaming-and-boring-vise/p/RBV/ And then you should have a decent drill press that is capable of changing speeds. For reaming hosels you want to be running the reamers at low speeds like 350 rpms. I have always used custom made drilling reamers made by a specialty machine shop that I found online years ago. Kind of expensive and I need to order like 4-5 at a time to meet their minimum requirement, but with these I can easily go from 0.335 to 0.370 in one operation. But even if you have to step drill it in stages, that is not a big deal. The main thing is you want to do this with a reamer and not with a drill bit(s). Drill bits can get stuck as the cutting tip jams and gets caught by the side of the hosel wall. Reamers do not. Golfworks has some stock reamers for 0.370. I would try one of those to see how it works for you. And if necessary you can always do a first step drill with a 23/64″ drill bit before using the reamer to 0.370. Going from 0.335 to 23/64 is not too much of a change so less chance of the bit jamming up in the bore.

    • Hi Tom,

      With the upcoming release of the Spiralock fitting system, wanted to ask a follow-up question on the 775HS and reaming / bore size.

      Will the hosel of the 775HS be able to handle the extra bore size needed to accomodate the .370 compression fitting and retain structural integrity?


    • LEE

      the new shaft connector coming out soon is not Spiralock – that was the old one we did several years ago. The new one is SHAFTLOCK. And yes, the 775HS can handle it because the hosel OD for the 775 is 13.2mm which is the exact same OD spec as all of my iron models. The other hybrid that is new for 2018, is the one to avoid for trying to use a 0.370 Shaftlock fitting. It’s designed with a 12.3mm hosel OD, the same as all my fairway wood heads. The 318RS is designed so it could be reamed to accept a 0.370 hybrid shaft epoxied into the hosel, but I would not try to ream it to accept one of the 0.370 Shaftlock connectors. That additional reaming to accept the Shaftlock connector would thin the walls of the hosel out too much on the 318RS hybrid. Besides, my hybrids are designed to perform best with my hybrid shafts which are all 0.335″ parallel.


  5. Tom,

    I’m still playing the 21 and 24.5 degree 915F/Hs from 2011. Everything else in my bag has changed except putter since this purchase.

    I would like to ditch my 28 degree 6 iron and would like to add another hybrid now but 915s are discontinued.

    Do you have any suggestions on 775HS specs so that it would play similarly to my current set-up?

    The weight of the 775HS look quite heavier than its counterpart in 915s for example.


    • JI

      I am too playing the old F/H 21 and 24.5 as hybrids in my own personal play set because I REALLY like them and always have. I think they are one of the definite SLEEPERS among my past models. There was never an F/H with a loft higher than the 24.5 so even if they were still around, there would be no option there for a 28* head. The spec loft of the 775 #5 is 27 and as is the case with EVERY clubhead model from EVERY golf company, the head will have a +/-1* tolerance. So you could order the #5 and specifically tell Diamond GOlf to hand select it with 28* loft – then with the bendable hosel you can tell them whatever face angle and lie you want with that 28* loft so you know dead nuts that it is right. The 775 is a little less broad from face to back than the F/H so that might take a little getting used to. But the face progression is pretty similar so at least that other important part of the looks of the 775 vs F/H would not be an issue for you to get used to. I do not know what length you are playing the F/H’s but it would be wise to do the 775 with 28* loft in progression with that, not excessively shorter or longer.

      Hope this helps,

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