Information and Q&A About Single Length Irons


The concept of making each iron in a set the same length is not new.  Eric Cook’s Iso-Vibe Golf Company in Canada began offering single length sets of irons to the North American golf market in 1986.  Perhaps the best known introduction of a single length set of golf clubs was the former Tommy Armour Golf Company’s release of their EQL single length woods and irons in 1989.  Since that time, a handful of lesser known, under-marketed companies have offered single length sets of irons, mainly through an on line direct-to-golfer offering.

The concept of single length irons received a huge boost in general awareness from the publicity of amateur golfer Bryson deChambeau’s victories in both the USA National Collegiate Athletic Association (NCAA) and US Amateur championships in 2015 using a single length set of irons.   Bryson deChambeau became only the 5th player to achieve this very prestigious amateur championship “double” in the same year, something that had only been done by Jack Nicklaus, Phil Mickelson, Tiger Woods and Ryan Moore.  All of a sudden a larger number of golfers became aware of single length irons and with it, a serious level of curiosity whether a Single Length set could be a viable change to make in their own equipment.

As is the case with any new and different golf equipment concept that gains awareness and attention, there are a lot of questions as well as a bit of misinformation and misunderstanding concerning single length sets of irons.   As the leader in golf equipment performance research, Tom Wishon Golf Technology is pleased to once again offer the most truthful, factual and understandable information to help golfers understand the concept of Single Length set design.

Following are a number of questions with answers pertaining to the concept and performance of Single Length sets of irons.  If you have questions beyond the following, we welcome you to ask by sending us an email at  .

What is the Reason a Golfer Might Consider Making a Change from Normal Incremental Length Irons to a Single Length Set of Irons?

The technical basis behind the creation of a set of single length irons is to say that if all the clubs have the same length, the same total weight, the same headweight, and the same balance point it will enable the golfer to use the same stance, posture, spine angle, swing plane – the same everything in the swing. As such, the single length approach has a chance to offer a higher level of swing repeatability and shot consistency for each of the clubs in the set.

At the same time, it must be said that many golfers have achieved very good swing and shot consistency using irons built to normal incremental lengths which are very accurately custom fit to their size, strength, athletic ability and swing characteristics.  However, if a golfer has suffered from chronic or occasional shot inconsistency, converting to a single length concept could offer some help.

 What is the Technical Explanation to Support an Argument About Single Length Irons Being Better for a Golfer than Conventional Incremental Length Irons?

 In a single length set of irons, every club is made so that everything that has anything to do with swing feel is the same in each club – same length, same shaft weight, same total weight, same head weight, same swingweight, same balance point, same MOI, and the same shaft stiffness/bend profile design. The only element that is different within single length clubs are the loft angles, to enable the single length clubs to each hit the ball different distances.

Normal incremental length sets of irons cannot duplicate that many different fitting elements.  While it is possible to build incremental length sets of irons to all be matched to the same MOI, each club will be different in total weight, head weight, swingweight, and balance point.

As such, the technical reason for creating a single length set of irons is to offer the golfer a chance for improvement in swing repeatability, swing consistency and shot consistency because every club is as perfectly matched for every possible aspect that has anything to do with swing feel.

Why Did Sets of Irons Evolve to be Made to Different Lengths?

 The purpose of a set of irons is to have each iron hit the ball a specific different distance with equal distance gaps between clubs through the set. That enables a golfer to choose an appropriate club for the different distances golfers will find themselves from the greens when playing a round of golf.

Early club designers learned there were a number of things in the design of irons that would cause each club to hit the ball a different distance.   First is a different loft angle on each iron, with the spacing in degrees of loft the same between each iron.  Second is a progression of different lengths so the golfer’s clubhead speed would intentionally change to coordinate with the different lofts to hit the ball a different distance with each iron.   Third is an increase in the total weight of the irons as they become shorter, which coordinates with the shorter length to cause the golfer to swing the shorter clubs at progressively slower swing speeds.

More recently, research into shot performance has shown that the distance between the different irons in a set comes 80-85% from the loft angle change from club to club, and 15-20% from the length change from club to club through the set.   As such, length change within a set of irons is much less important for a distance difference between irons than are the differences in the loft angles through the set.   This opens the door for a single length set to be a viable alternative to the conventional incremental length set.

Why Haven’t any of the Big Golf Companies Created and Offered a Set of Single Length Clubs?

Chiefly because of a lack of confidence that such a different type of set could garner enough demand to justify the cost of development and marketing to be able to last for 2 or more years in the market. When Tommy Armour Golf offered their single length EQL model, it did not exactly show much in the way of longer term success for the costs associated with its development and promotion.

 Golf has always been a game steeped with traditions.  Golfers as a whole have demonstrated a general and consistent tendency to not deviate too far outside the norm of such traditions in the game.

This is also true when it comes to certain aspects related to golf clubs. It has been proven over and over that developments in the design, shape and concept of golf clubs have to remain within a narrow range of change – if you go too far outside the box of tradition, golfers will reject such changes and will simply refuse to purchase the clubs if they are considered to be “too different”.

Most of the golf companies have believed that a single length set of golf clubs would push things too far in the minds of most golfers so the sets would not be able to sell in a high enough volume to justify the cost of development, inventory and marketing.

If the clubs are all to be made to one Length and one Lie Angle, what is there for golfers to be custom fit in a set of Single Length Irons?

Every one of the key fitting specifications in any set of irons, that’s what – the lofts, lies, shaft flex, shaft bend profile, shaft weight, total weight, headweight feel (swingweight or MOI), grip style and grip size.   Not only that, but it is possible that some golfers could be more comfortable with a slightly different single length than other golfers.   In short, even though the lengths of each iron will be the same, what that length should be as well as each one of the other key fitting specifications should be custom fit and custom built for each golfer.

Single length does NOT mean “one size fits all” in the manner of the way big golf companies sell their clubs in standard form, off the rack.   Single length sets still need to be properly custom fit to each golfer based on their size, strength, athletic ability and swing characteristics.

What About Single Length Clubs for Tall or Short Players? Such Players Regularly are Fit for “overlength” or “underlength” irons in conventional iron sets.  What About “overlength” or “underlength” in Single Length sets? 

That’s an interesting point in Single Length set fitting. Think about it this way, using the following example.  Let’s say you have two golfers and after a fitting analysis for a conventional set of irons, it is determined that Golfer A needs his lengths to be +1” over standard, while Golfer B is best fit into a standard length set.   That means the 5 iron in Golfer A’s set would be 39” while the 5 iron in Golfer B’s set would be 38”.

But let’s say that both Golfers become aware of the Single Length concept and express an interest to be fit into such a set.   And let’s also say that the Single Length set both see is offered in a “standard” single length of 37”.  Does Golfer A need his Single Length set to be 38” since he was advised to use a +1” over standard length in his conventional set of irons?

Probably not, and here’s why.   In Golfer A’s conventional set of irons, 37” is the length of his +1” over length #9 iron.  While in Golfer B’s conventional iron set, 37” is the length of his standard length #7 iron.  Thus it could be said that the 37” single length would be a proper fit for either golfer, even though in a conventional set Golfer A measured to need +1” longer than standard.

Interesting, eh?

In the end, there may be an occasional situation in which a golfer who needs a longer length in a conventional iron set may need the length of a Single Length set to be a bit longer than the length range the set was designed to follow.   However, we do urge clubmakers to try to keep all golfers within this range between 36.5 and 37 inches for purposes of more successfully fitting the golfer to a suitable total weight + headweight feel in the clubs.

Are Single Length Irons Better for Average to Less Skilled Golfers or are they Viable for Good Players as well?

During the time between the mid 1980s and mid 2010s when only a few isolated companies offered single length sets of irons, most people were led to believe that single length irons were more aimed at average to less skilled golfers. It can be said that Bryson deChambeau’s wins in the NCAA and US Amateur pretty much blew that thought out of the water.

As with normal sets of irons aimed at average vs good players, the main differences fall in the areas of traditional vs game improvement iron HEAD designs, coupled with fitting differences in the shafts, total weight, swingweight (headweight feel), lie and grip size/style.   Most companies that offer Single Length irons are not likely to offer multiple clubhead models as they do with conventional length iron models unless the demand for such a delineation in Single Length head model were to become large enough to justify a better player version to contrast to the game improvement version.

What is the Potential Drawback in Using a Set of Single Length Irons vs a Set of Conventional Incremental Length Irons?

There are three primary areas in which previous Single Length irons have fallen short of the performance golfers are used to with their conventional incremental length iron sets.

Depending on the single length chosen, the golfer may lose enough clubhead speed with the lower loft irons to cause a loss of distance for the lower number irons in a Single Length set vs in a conventional length set.

Also depending on the single length chosen, the golfer may find that shot distances with the high loft irons and wedges are longer than the golfer was used to in the conventional length set. This could happen if the single length is more than 1” longer than the length of the high loft irons/wedges in the conventional set.

Following from both #1 and #2 above, the distance gaps between each single length iron could be compressed, shorter than what the golfer was used to with the conventional set of irons.

 It must be noted that the main reason these problems have occurred with previous Single Length iron sets are because the sets were made with conventional steel clubheads with the same lofts and 4* loft gaps used in conventional iron sets, coupled with a single length that was >1” shorter than the low loft iron lengths and >1” longer than the high loft iron lengths in the golfer’s conventional set. In other words, by customizing the length, the lofts and loft gaps, and the clubhead design, it is possible for a modern Single Length set to overcome these previous problems that have been seen with existing Single Length sets.

Can a Conventional Set of Incremental Length Irons be Converted into a Set of Single Length Irons?

Not without either a lot of lead tape on the lower loft heads and a lot of grinding of weight off the higher loft heads in the conventional set.   Not to mention the potential difficulty of bending the lie angle of some of the heads to the required lie for the golfer for the one single length chosen.

In a Single Length set, all the clubheads must be designed and manufactured to be the same exact headweight AND with the same lie angle.  This is a requirement for the Single Length clubs to all end up with the same total weight, same swing weight, same head weight feel and same balance point – the elements that ensure each club exhibits the same swing feel.

Golfers who are interested in a Single Length set are going to have to test hit clubs properly engineered and manufactured for assembly as a Single Length set to be able to try the concept.   It is completely impractical to alter an existing iron set to the Single Length concept.

What About Woods? Can a Single Length Set of Woods Also be a Viable Change for a Golfer to make with his or her Equipment? 

Tommy Armour Golf Company thought so back in 1989 when they introduced the EQL full sets of golf clubs. In the EQL all the woods from driver to 7-wood were made to be the length of a standard 5-wood – 42”.  This became the biggest area of golfer dissatisfaction with the EQL.  While the golfers could hit the 42” driver with improved consistency and accuracy, the much shorter 42” length brought about a significant loss of clubhead speed which resulted in a marked loss of driver distance for most of the golfers who tried the EQL.

Take distance away from the driver and you end up with a very unhappy golfer.  As such this was one of the main things that killed the possible success of the EQL.

With Single Length irons it is possible to change lofts and engineer a higher COR face into the design of the low loft irons to prevent them from losing distance when built to a single length that is shorter than the length of the low loft irons in the conventional set.  Not so with a driver.  Drivers have been at the top of the COR limit in the rules for over 15 years.  And lower loft doesn’t add distance because with the driver, loft has to be matched to the golfer’s clubhead speed to maximize distance for each golfer.

So if you build a driver as short as a 5 wood, for many golfers that will result in a drop in clubhead speed and distance that cannot be made up in any other way other than to go back to a longer length.

Why Haven’t Other Tournament Golfers Begun to Change to Single Length Irons since Bryson deChambeau’s Success in High Level Amateur Tournaments ?

If you think normal amateur golfers cling to tradition and resist change, just wait until you take a look into that trait among tour pros and very serious competitive amateurs. Shoot, there are still a lot of those players clinging to a muscleback blade in their irons!

But one can never say never.  Even though Bryson deChambeau is a top ranked amateur, the day will come when he will move on to the PGA Tour.  If he continues to play well as a pro, you can count on the fact that a few of his fellow pros are going to be very curious to the point of wanting to at least experiment in the off season with a Single Length set.

On the other hand, deChambeau employs a very different swing technique with his Single Length set that may very well cloud and confuse the way other pros look at the possible use of a Single Length set.   Single Length sets do NOT require the Moe Norman Single Plane swing technique to perform as designed.  Bryson deChambeau just happened to combine a Single Length set with his desire to pursue the Single Plane swing technique.

But because deChambeau would be the only player on tour using a Single Length set and the only player using a Single Plane swing, it is possible that other pros may have the mistaken belief that to play a Single length set requires switching to the Single Plane swing technique.  For those who mistakenly adopt this belief, it is unlikely those players will ever touch a Single Length set.

But for pros who understand that a Single Length set could be used with any swing technique, who knows.  Many tour pros have always been known to have a case of “rabbit ears”, meaning when they see someone else using something new and doing well, they get the interest to try it as well in their ongoing search for the perfect club!

Should I Seriously Consider Buying a Set of Single Length Irons?

We’re a little prejudiced at this point at Wishon Golf because we feel the major changes we have made in the design of the Sterling Irons® Single Length clubheads, coupled with our understanding now of the concepts of proper fitting of Single Length sets, we feel it is a possible way for a very high percentage of golfers to gain a little bit to a moderate improvement in swing and shot consistency.

At the same time, we’ll be the first to say that hit testing of the Sterling Irons® Single Length design showed that there will be some golfers for whom switching from a conventional incremental length set to a Single Length set will just be too strange, too different and too weird for lack of a better term.  We certainly expect that a certain number of golfers will hit the Single Length set just fine, but will not be able to mentally get used to the fact that all their irons are the same length and to be played with the same stance and ball position.

That’s precisely why we are strongly advising clubmakers to encourage interested golfers to “try before you buy”.  And by try we mean to take at least 2 to 3 weeks to hit at least a 5, 7, 9 or a #5 and 9 iron from the Single Length set before they make a decision to buy the set.

We know from 2 years of development work that the Sterling Irons® Single Length set does have all the requirements to deliver a seamless transition for shot distance with each club compared to a conventional set, while at the same time offering the main benefit of the Single Length concept of identical swing feel for every club.

• Sterling Irons® #5 is offered in an option between high COR hybrid and high COR iron for different player types.

• Sterling Irons® #5, 6, 7 irons are all high COR face, variable thickness face design, with low CG and slightly stronger lofts to ensure no loss of distance for these clubs compared to their longer length in a conventional set.

• Sterling Irons® #8 through SW are all one piece cast carbon steel body cavity back irons made in 5* loft increments to also ensure not hitting the ball too far for these clubs compared to their slightly shorter lengths in a conventional set.

• Sterling Irons® Single Length is designed to be built to the golfer’s choice of either 37” (Std #7 iron) or 36.5” (Std #8 iron) or in between.  These are shorter lengths than other single length sets by intent to offer better shot consistency and a higher percentage of on center hits for each club.   With the high COR #5, 6, 7 the shorter single length of the Sterling Irons® won’t result in a loss of distance compared to the golfer’s #5, 6, 7 irons in a conventional length set.

• All of the Sterling Irons® clubheads are bendable for lie and loft by +/-4*. Not only is this critical for proper lie angle fitting for every golfer, it is also a way to tweak the distances and distance gaps between irons.    Golfers come in a variety of different clubhead speeds and angles of attack into the ball.   CH Speed and A OF A have a huge bearing on how far a golfer hits any loft and how much distance any loft gap will exhibit between clubs.  With eminent bendability of the Sterling Irons® Single Length clubheads, it will be possible to offer any golfer a final tweak of the lofts to achieve his most comfortable distances with each iron as well as suitable distance gaps between each Single Length club.


  1. Curious if you have two different websites? I sent a bunch of my information to a Sterling website and have not heard back yet. I am very interested in getting a set but wanted to discuss my specs first…which I sent on an email over a week ago.

    • Scott

      The website and direct sales business is not owned by Wishon Golf. This is a separate independent business and is not affiliated with Wishon Golf or Diamond Golf International. They purchase the Sterling iron heads from us and they do all of their own fitting advice and custom building of the sets for the orders that come to their website. Same as is the case with other clubmakers with the only difference being these people do all their business on line in their fitting of the Sterling irons design. I have heard that sometimes it can take a few days for them to catch up with emails when the principle is gone but I am sure they will contact you if they have your email.


  2. Tom, I was considering having a set of Sterling irons built and wanted to match hybrids at the same time to avoid gaps in my set. I noticed the 318RS hybrids have less aggressive lofts, which would be great for me as I live in the desert SW and the ground can be hard. My question is, with the higher lofts on the 318RS hybrids, how would the clubs be set up to have a gapless set from the hybrids to irons (sadly, there is no fitter in my area)?

    • Lee
      Transitioning hybrids that by virtue of their head weight are intended to be longer than the length of the single length irons, the first decision comes from knowing what will be your lowest number single length Sterling iron. Choosing what will be your lowest number iron is one of the most important parts of single length iron fitting. When all the irons are 7 or 8 iron length, the low loft irons require a certain clubhead speed to be able to get the ball well up to fly and carry so there can be a full club carry distance between each iron. To be able to have the 19* loft #4 iron in your set, you would need to have a minimum clubhead speed with your current 7 iron of 85mph. To be able to have the 23* loft #5 iron in your set, you would need to have a minimum clubhead speed of 77mph. These speeds are based on the golfer having a normal angle of attack with their 7 and 8 iron of -2 to -3*. If the golfer is more steep than that, then the clubhead speed minimum levels in this advise go up a couple of mph. Hope that makes sense.

      So, let’s cover all the bases and say you start with the 6 iron in your set. Above that could come a 318RS #4 at 25* built to a length that is not less than 1.5″ longer than the length you end up using for the Sterling Irons. So if your irons are 36.5″, this 25* hybrid would be not less than 38″. If your Sterlings are 37″, then the 25* is 38.5″ There are two weight bores in the 318s so if you build to 38″ you still will have enough weight addition capability to reach a normal range of swingweights at 38″ length.

      Then above that hybrid would come the 318-3 but you would want to ask the clubmaker to have the 318-3 ordered with a hand select request for it to be 21* so you can get a 4* gap between it and the 25* hybrid. We can do hand picks for 1* higher or lower loft than the spec. That hybrid would be 1/2″ longer than the 25* hybrid, whatever length it happens to end up being based on your iron length. Then above that hybrid would be a 5 wood probably of 18-19* loft and normal 5 wood length but not longer than 41.5″ so control is enhanced. Then comes the 3w and driver.

      If your lowest loft iron in the Sterlings is the 5 iron, then the club above that would be a 318-3 but with its standard loft of 22* no hand pick needed on that because having a 3* jump from the 5 iron to hybrid is right because the hybrid is longer in length. That added length over the irons makes up the distance difference to allow the loft gap to just be 3*.

      And that should be a good way to manage your set makeup. Hope this helps,

  3. Tom, from what you are saying about lie angle in single length irons being “critical”, how tight of tolerance in the sterling’s? Guessing that I would need to pay for the hand select service to make sure they all are 63 degrees in lie. Would like to add the 4 iron to a sterling set, recently driver swing is 95 might I be safe to say that I am within your 85 speed for 5 iron. I am 6’3”” and hit my 5 iron 190-200? Still using you interflexx wood shafts in fairway woods, would S2S black be closest to your interflexx?

    • GARY

      The stated tolerance is +/-1* but since I have measured literally thousands of Sterling iron heads I can tell you that for the lie 85% are +/-1/2* from the 63* spec while the other 15% are 3/4 to 1* off from the spec. It’s also very similar in loft for each head with 85-90% being less than 1/2* off from the spec and the other 10-15% being 1/2 to 1* off from the loft spec. In the world of clubhead production that really is very good. Most people with a 95mph driver speed are in the area of 77-80 with the iron speed, not as high as 85mph. But if you really do CARRY the ball 190-200 with the 5 iron, then you should be over 85mph and the 4 iron should be ok. Perhaps the driver speed is not accurate then? because most people who hit a 23* loft #5 iron to a carry distance of 190 would have well over a 100mph driver speed. Do you unhinge the wrist hinge angle early on the downswing with the driver but not with the irons? But yes, the Black shaft would be closest to the Interflexx Mid-Low shaft while the White shaft would be closest to the Interflexx High version.

      Thanks again for your interest and best to you in this great game,

  4. Tom,

    Do you have a point of view on the “25 degree golf swing” concept taught by Arlen Bento Jr? I read about it in a USGTF article. The concept is that a simplified more upright swing (25 degrees of forward spine tilt) is very easy to learn and repeat and may help avoid injury. The article discussed a single length set played at 4 iron length (I assume 38.5” in steel).

    It seems like the premise violates the “24/38” rule you discuss in the search for a perfect golf club – however if the average golfer could build their entire game off just a single full swing, perhaps there is merit to it even at that length? Arlen has a very good reputation as a teacher and his students seem to rave about the concept.

    I personally play sterlings 4-sw at 37.5” and have added a second shorter length and weaker lofted SW and a Wishon PCF LW because full swings on the 37.5” wedges can really get out there (hence your recommendation to build them shorter). I play mine an inch over recommended because I like the extra rip I get in long irons at 37.5” and I like that I can hit longer shots with my stock iron swing and replace the dreaded 5 and 7 wood with confidence clubs. I think many other golfers feel the same. I am really curious about what would happen if I added another inch to the set and tested Arlen’s concept?

    Is this something you have a POV on? Worth an experiment to see how I respond as an individual at 38.5”?


    • JOE

      I don’t think there can ever be one type of swing teaching technique that can work well for all golfers because golfers are so very different in their combination of anatomy, physiology, biomechanics, flexibility, muscularity. Some of us can rotate smoothly and consistently in one plane, others in another plane and so forth. Not until some really sharp person skilled in all these fields comes along and figures out a way to analyze each person for these characteristics and then plots that against specific swing techniques will golf instruction really move into the modern era. IMO that is.

      There is no question that people with back pain issues are better off not bending over as much to play the game. Mt bro-in-law is a perfect example with his back issues. I fit him into a set of Sterlings at 37.5″ so he could achieve a posture that took pressure off his back and alleviated his pain somewhat. He’s 6’2 and has an above average wrist to floor measurement and 37.5 was comfortable for him. Bryson deChambeau who I see the 25* site puts on their video as an example is 6’3 and plays 37.5″ length for his single length irons.

      So I do not think you can look at any type of back relief swing technique and automatically say 38.5″ is the right length for all. Besides, as you have discovered, when you go longer with the wedges you do have an issue with distance control. I’m not opposed to teaching people with back issues to be more erect in posture and from it, to swing more upright. But each person is still going to be different in terms of height and arm length for what length is best for them when they are in such a swing technique and thus each person would need to be individually fit for their iron length with this technique.

      As to the 24/38 rule, I intended that to be more about loft than length. But it is just that most lofts go along with a specific length so I chose the 24/38 based on my observations of golfers that many can’t get a 24* loft iron airborne well enough and it just so happens that back when I observed this, most every 24* loft iron was a little longer than 38″. If you had a 38″ club that had 40* loft, most could get it airborne fine. And If you had a 24* loft club at 36″, most still could not get it airborne well enough. So to me this was more about loft than length, but it had to include length because loft + length are so tied together within a narrow range.

      Hope this helps, and thanks for your interest !

  5. I find it very difficult to believe that if I reshaft my existing clubs from 7 iron down to be longer that I’ll notice any balance,lie, moi etc issues. If there are, then I think that they’ll be outweighed by being in a less cramped position for the shots as I’m 6’4 with clubs fitted 1/2″ longer. My wedges feel very short, and are 2 inches shorter than my 7 iron.

    • JAMES

      No question that if your irons were much too short or too long, re shafting to get them to the right length so you can achieve a more comfortable position over the ball and through impact will have a very big and positive effect on your iron shot consistency and performance. But when you re shaft, if the new shafts are lighter or heavier by more than 7-10 grams over what the shaft was previously, the total weight, the swingweight and the MOI of the irons will have changed enough that a good portion of golfers will have to deal with the effect of those changes on their swing tempo and timing. Hence if the new shafts are 7-10g or more lighter or heavier than before, you have to go back to square one with swingweight/head weight fitting as well to be sure you get the feel of the clubs right for your tempo and timing.


    • Hi Tom, thanks for the answer. I spoke to a of a pro who did research on just this topic. While I can agree with all the possible issues, I just don’t see that the theoretical negative effects will be that noticeable and could easily be cancelled out by a small hand adjustment. When are choke down on a club we lean over more, so why is standing a little more upright/further from the ball
      with a longer shaft going to be a problem?

    • JAMES

      The effect of a length change can be different for each golfer depending on how the change in posture affects the swing plane and swing path. For most it is not any issue at all when the length change is small, such as 1/2″. But when the length change is 1″ or even more, it might require a little getting used to for the golfer to adjust to what that length change does to his posture and from it, his plane and path. On the other hand, for some the length change gets them into a much more comfortable position right from the first shot and the swing motion improves.


  6. Tom, I have a 71 year old golfer SS of 71mph 7 iron. He is playing the 770 Hybrids 4,5,6 and 7. He wants me to convert them to Single length.I have not built any of the Sterling irons. He is questioning if it will be of any help to him if they are converted to single length with his 71 MPH SS? Would you give me your input so that I can get back to him .I understand what has to be done to accomplish doing that with weight ,Lenghtsand flex.

    • DALE

      There certainly are some clubmakers who are using the 775’s to offer a single length hybrid option to players because with the two weight bores, you have the ability to add as much as 18g to a 775 head to get it up to a normal swingweight should the single length chose be much shorter than what the std normal length would be for each particular hybrid. The trick to success with single length hybrids is what length do you choose for the golfer who is interested. Now you said he has the 770 hybrids – we never did a 770 model in a hybrid. We did a 785 and 775 but no 770. And there is no #7 in the 775’s so I am guessing you meant to type 785 for the model since that hybrid design was available through the PW when it first was intro’d.

      If they are 785’s then you only have one weight bore, in the hosel. You could get 9g in there providing you can get the existing weights out of the weight bores should they be in there and should they be less than a 9g weight. That can be a dodgy proposition because the weight bore in a hybrid or fwy wood is not at all like the weight bore in an iron. Long story short, you can’t drill out a weight in a hosel weight bore in one of my hybrids or fwys or drivers because the weight bore is a thin wall metal cylinder welded to the underside of the inside of the body of the head. Force of drilling a weight out of there can fracture the weld and make the weight bore fall inside the head. Now if there are tungsten weights in there now, they should have a flat head screw driver slot on the top. you’d need to heat the base of the hosel adjacent to where the weight bore is, clean out the slot with a thin sharp rod to fit a flat head screw driver. Heat some more and start by twisting the weight with the screwdriver. Keep twisting over and over with a little more heat until you feel there is not that much resistance to the twisting rotation of the weight. Then SLAM the top of the hosel down hard on a wood top workbench and hope the weight pops out. If not you can keep heating and twisting and banging the hosel down to try to get it out.

      if the weights in there are brass, they won’t have a slot on top. Sorry. You can CAREFULLY try to drill them out with a BRAND NEW drill bit of 9/32″ size. Do not push hard down on the weight while drilling. Let the sharp bit do the work with medium pressure down with the drill. Hopefully the bit will cut deep enough into the brass weight so it eventually grabs it on the end of the bit so you can get it out when you withdraw the drill.

      Anyway, then you have a decision for what length to make all of them. Keep in mind, the shorter you make the single length vs what the conventional length is for any of these hybrids, the more weight you have to add to those heads to get them up to a normal swingweight. So in other words, I would not choose a 7 iron length cuz that would require a ton of weight added to the 4 and 5 heads – more than what the weight bore will accommodate. In the end, this would be tons easier to do with the 775HS hybrid heads with their twin weight bores. But of course that would require the golfer to be buying new clubs from scratch for more cost.


  7. Hi Tom,
    I love the concept of the Sterling, but have a few questions and comments.
    1. I am toying with half of your set, e.g. 25, 30, 35 and 40 degree irons at 37″ minimun. I like the 37 to 37.25 length best for my posture.
    2. I hit a high ball already, so I like the idea of of ~ 36″ for the higher lofted clubs (45 and above)- 36.5 ” max.
    So now my question. You specify that clubs can be built at “36.5, 36.75 or 37”, but surely one of your certified clubfitters can fit them to any arbitrary length in the 36 to 37.5 range. Do you mean that you deliver the clubs to your fitters with different lie angle depending upon the anticipated shaft length. This doesn’t seem likely- I am guessing the you deliver all heads according to your posted specs (274 g, lie angle 63)?
    Thanks for any info!

    • STEVE:

      The majority of orders for the heads from clubmakers go to them just with the specs as is, 274 grams head weight with +/-3g tolerance and lofts/lies with +/-1* tolerance. Obviously the majority of the heads are within +/-2g and only a small number of heads are as much as a full degree off from the loft/lie design specs because that is the actual tolerances we see in checking shipments all the time. Most of the clubmakers do their own bending for any lie or loft changes they need to make for each golfer. Sometimes they will ask us to do that for them when they know exactly the specs they want before they order.

      Length wise, sure, depending on the shaft weight and grip weight and swingweight desired, the irons can be made longer than our initial recommendation option of 37″. But if a player wanted heavier weight steel shafts (>120g) with normal weight grips (@50g) and a swingweight not higher than D2, that is going to be very tough (impossible) to do with a 274g headweight for lengths over 37″. But with shafts under 110g, grips over 50g, then it becomes a little more do-able. Likewise at lengths under 36.5″, it becomes tougher to get to swingweights over D0 because the weight bore in the heads has a capy of 9g for weight addition. Tip weights could be used in the shafts above that but we would not like the total amount of weight added to the weight bore PLUS the shaft tip to exceed 12-13g because that is going to pull the C of G over to the heel side of the head by around 1/4″.

      Most of the clubmakers know how to do the math to calculate what swingweight they can achieve based on what length, what shaft weight, what grip weight so they know going in whether they can hit a specific swingweight for any combination of length, shaft and grip. If not, we have a handy Excel file they can have to do the math for them before a build job.


  8. usga certified?? Sterlings

    • Tom, yes the Sterling irons are officially conforming to the USGA/R&A rules of golf. That conformity ruling was made early in 2016.


  9. Tom,

    Just a quick question for you. I’m a disabled veteran with neck issues. Do you think the single length irons would be easier to swing? Also do you offer any discounts for veterans? Thanks.

    • Tyler:

      If you have found that short irons in your set are less stress on your neck while longer irons and clubs to cause you discomfort, then it is possible the single length irons all being an 8 iron length could be better for you. But when you swing your current 8, 9 and wedges, if those irons bring discomfort then no, the single length on its own is not going to be a big change for you in terms of relief when you swing.

      Our company is a wholesale supplier of my designs to custom clubmakers. We do not sell direct to golfers. You would have to contact a custom clubmaker in your area to inquire as to whether the clubmaker offers a discount to veterans. There is a direct sales website for custom fit Sterling Irons which is not affiliated with Wishon Golf or our distributor Diamond Golf International. That site is . You could contact them to inquire as to whether they have a program to offer a discount to veterans.

      Thanks very much for your interest and I hope this helps a little,

  10. Tom, you may have answered this question somewhere before, and my apologies if so. Why not build a set that is less incremental and not quite single length. Say quarter inch differences in the shaft length? I would be curious to try this. Any thoughts? Thanks for you commitment to your craft!

    • Benjamin

      Yes for sure, I am happy to explain that. One of the biggest reasons that single length came about was because when you make each iron the same exact length, you then perfectly duplicate every single element that has anything to do with swing feel and swing repeatability. same length means same total weight for each iron, same swingweight, same balance point, same MOI – and then you have the same exact ball position, same swing posture, same swing plane, same swing angle of attack which also is a possible way to lead to making the swing more repeatable and consistent.

      If you deviate from single length and do any type of incremental length set, whether that is half inch, quarter inch, even eighth inch, you cannot make every one of these elements that control swing feel and swing repeatability to be exactly the same. The best you can do is to make the swingweights the same and in some cases if you know how to do it, you can make the MOI of each iron the same. But you can never make the total weights and balance points precisely identical in each club along with the same swingweight and balance point unless each iron is exactly the same length.

      It’s certainly possible to work with any type of incremental length change you wish. And you can get the set to a point that it plays just fine. But you can never duplicate every single one of the elements that has to do with swing feel and swing repeatibility unless all lengths are the same.


  11. I have on my hands a very pleasing challenge with these clubs.

    I put the Sterlings into my bag in January. At first it was weird. The high-lofted irons felt strange–looking at those really long clubs! The low-lofted irons felt like I was holding junior clubs. But I took to them immediately and have never turned back.

    The next adventure was to get used to the lower bounce in the Gap and Pitching Wedges. This caused me to be more aggressive through the ball, which resulted in better strikes throughout the set. (I’ve said all this before in previous posts.)

    Now, my dilemma is that I’m really hitting these far…farther than I’ve ever hit irons before. No, really, it’s absurd. My (approximate) previous carry distances were:

    — PW: 135
    — 7I: 165
    — 4I: 195

    My driver speed is about 110mph.

    Now? Ten yards farther…throughout the set. Yesterday I was facing a 175-yard carry over trees (second shot on a par-5, thus the trees), with a 1-club wind in my face. Clean strike, then I watched the ball fly the green completely–a 180yd carry. Sigh. Pitched back on and 2-putted for par, but woah!

    The point is, my distances have jumped. I’m not any stronger and, at age 58, I don’t expect that to improve. So what’s up? It’s clear to me: better strikes. I’m hitting everything on the sweet spot. The ball is just flying farther throughout the set.

    Okay, but hold on a moment. When I first considered making this switch, I contended there were a benefit and a trade-off. The benefit was in hitting the “long” irons with shorter shafts–likely to increase accuracy. The trade-off was having to hit the “shorter” irons and wedges with a longer shaft–likely to decrease accuracy. But….

    What happened instead is I’ve grooved my irons to an extent never experienced in my 28 years playing this game. Not only are my low-lofted irons more accurate, so are my high-lofted irons and wedges. Why? I’m hitting a lot more “pure” strikes and the ball is just flying. But….

    I have to get used to the new distances and to trust them. I’ve been hitting irons the same distance for 10 years or more. This is new, different, and difficult to trust. But I’m looking forward to it!

    I carry a traditional 3-iron (Well not exactly “traditional”; it’s a Ping hybrid iron) because I hate hybrids. Well, I tend to lean towards the Sterling 4-iron whenever possible because it is so much easier to hit.

    Now my driver is 43.5″, the same length as my 3-wood, and I’m enjoying better strikes and only a small decrease in distance. I would NOT have made that move if I didn’t do this first with the Sterlings.

    I hope enough players make this move to make these kind of irons sustainable. I don’t ever want to go back.

    • Been playing these irons since April. I too am experiencing greater accuracy & distances in the short irons as well as the long irons. I too am in my 50’s. I seem to be 1 club plus further in distance than what I was used to using variable length. I believe it is due to the combination of the technology in these clubs (heads & shaft) as well as the consistent ball striking i’m getting. This is the most confident I have felt at address in quite some time and I am having such fun playing golf again. I’ve had real success with the 5 iron that I’m tempted to give the 4 iron a go from the tee for those short par 4’s. My swing speed was a hair under the recommended minimum speed. All in all very pleased with my Sterlings.

    • RICHE

      Wow, what a nice comment for me to be able to read and smile about !! Thank you very much for your decision to be fit into a set of the Sterling Irons. We’re very pleased to be able to hear that the new irons are in essence giving you a bit of a new start in this great game ! In short, you really made my day to be able to know that you like the new irons a lot !

      Take care and thanks again and the best wishes to you in this great game,

  12. Tom,

    Thanks so much for taking the time to go over this topic
    with me again. Your patience is appreciated.
    Now I understand.

    Thank you,


  13. Although I have golfed quite a bit, I’m still very much a novice. A few years ago I suffered a serious back injury requiring fusion of my lower spine. This has made my swing a bit difficult and can be painful with my shorter irons.

    I’ve been curious if a single length club could help. Any thoughts?

    • ALLEN

      If the discomfort is alleviated by you changing your posture in the address position to stand more upright and less bent over, then the change to a single length set which is probably a little bit longer could help. Think about this – in your set of conventional length irons, is there an iron at which the discomfort begins to get worse? What I am getting at is that perhaps you do not feel the pain increase until you get to the 7 or 8 or 9 iron in the set, but it is manageable with the 6 or 5 irons because they are longer and do not require you to bend over as much. Find what iron number it is that you notice the change from sort of ok to definitely painful, and that can be the guide point for what the single length of all the irons could be. That way you avoid having clubs you have to change your posture to bend over more to the point of having more pain. My Bro-in-law is in the same situation as you and I built him a set of single length irons based on a 6 iron length because it was with his old 7 iron that his bending over started to bring about more pain. While he still had some discomfort with any shot with any club, he found he could deal with it if none of the irons were shorter than a 6 iron.

      Hope this helps, but I am here to help as much as you need.

  14. A 6-month update on my Sterlings:

    I’m a 58 y.o. male, with a 110 (or so) mph driver swing speed playing to something like a 6 HC. I’ve (almost) exclusively played cavity-backed irons in the 28 years I’ve been playing.

    I have a full set, 4I through gap wedge. In short, I cannot imagine going back to traditional irons. Never say “never,” I guess, but I don’t know what it would take.

    With my low-lofted irons, my distance is normal, my gaps are good, and my misses are much improved. I really look forward to hitting them (and the accompanying “clink” they make on contact). With my high-lofted irons and two wedges, I’m now getting the results I need.

    Getting used to the longer wedges was my biggest challenge. I struggled with the GW, but once I realized it had a considerably lower bounce than I was used to, I made a mental change to be aggressive through the ball and it improved my contact. This, in turn, improved my ball-striking in all 13 clubs. Now they just seem normal. In fact, my traditional SW and LW are starting to feel a bit funny!

    Because of this experiment, I decided to go to a shorter driver. I took a TM M1 and had the shaft cut to 43.5″ and added lead tape to get the swing weight back up. I liked the feel of swinging the shorter club, but I think I want to get one fitted and built from scratch.

    In both of these–the Sterlings and the shorter driver, I’m challenging the “conventional wisdom” (hah!) offered up by the mass producers…and getting good results. Great stuff. I’m hoping SL irons will catch on enough to remain an option, but I wonder.

    As for these Sterlings, I can only say, “Thanks, Tom!”

    • RICH

      Thanks so much for sharing your good experiences with the Sterling single length irons. It never gets old for me being able to hear that something I created has helped make the game a little bit more enjoyable !! Thanks for that treat to me !! And I am pleased to hear it prompted you to move into a shorter driver as well. I started writing back in the mid 90s about the benefits of a shorter driver length over what the big companies have been doing with their too long standard driver lengths. It does work, it is better and I am pleased you added this area of improvement to your game to join the help you are getting from the single length irons. Thanks so much, really, and the very best to you in this great game !

  15. Hi Tom

    I’m very interested in your irons. I notice that each iron in a set has a 3 degree bounce. I’m curious to know as traditional clubs has a different bounce.

    thanks for taking my questions

    • Charlie

      With most companies’ sets of irons, the bounce sole angle will progress and graduate from a lower degree of bounce on the lowest loft iron up to the highest degree of bounce on the PW and gap wedge. What that actual bounce sole angle is for each iron for each model and for each different company varies. There are no standards for bounce or for any specification on golf clubs, so each company is free to determine what the bounce will be for each iron number in each model of irons they develop. The main reason bounce graduates from less to more down through a set of irons is because we golfers swing at each iron with a progressively increasing angle of attack into the ball. The higher the iron number, the more back in our stance we place the ball and from this, the more downward the angle of attack becomes. A typical golfer who has a 1* downward angle of attack with his 3 iron will usually have as much as a 4 or 5* downward angle of attack with his PW and gap wedge. So since we golfers hit down more steeply as the iron number gets higher, this puts the shaft more ahead of the head at impact which brings about the need for a little more bounce on each iron sole down through the set.

      Also, the typical turfgrass used on golf courses in very hot weather areas and the more southern regions of the country is usually a strain of or a close relative to Bermuda grass. Such turf is known for its creeping blade and root structure which can grab the sole of the iron when you hit shots. Having more bounce on the sole of an iron set used to play on Bermuda grass can be very helpful to golfers to reduce the amount of “sole grab” that such creeping grass strains exhibit on an iron during the course of hitting shots.

      Again, there is no standard for this. It is strictly up to each company as to what the bounce will be for each head in each model of irons they create. Not sure if this answers what you wanted to know about bounce – if not, let me know and I will be glad to add more information to help you.

  16. Hi Tom,
    Last year i bought a complete set of Single Lenght Irons. I’m very pleased with it. I only play with my irons and never use my driver or woods. I think the difference in length is causing me to prefer the irons.
    I hit app. 200-210 meters with the Sterling Iron 4.
    For the longer holes i need to use a driver so i’m searching for a new driver but i don’t want a huge difference in length with my irons.
    Question: is it possible to build en play with a very short driver and have sufficient distance or isn’t that possible at all ?

    Thanks in Advance

    Mark van Nunen – Netherlands

    • MARK

      Thank you very much for letting us know how well you like the new Sterling irons ! That is very nice for us to have the chance to know that ! Since you can hit the Sterling 4 iron a distance of 200-210 meters, then that says you have a pretty high clubhead speed. That means if you decided to have a driver made that was as short as 42″ to 43″, you still would be able to achieve pretty good distance with that shorter length. To get such a driver will require that you work with a custom clubmaker because none of the retail golf stores or pro shops would be able to order that short of a length from one of the big golf companies. The best custom clubmaker I know of in your country is Marcel Bal in Den Helder. Even if you are not close to his shop location, you should call him or email him to tell him what you are looking for, and to ask him if he can do that from a long distance without having to meet with you. If you are close enough to meet with him, then by all means do that so he could custom fit you in person for the short driver. His contact information is as follows: Phone: 0223 643720 Email:

      Thank you again and I hope this helps,

  17. Hi Tom,

    Why do you consider Kick point a dead term today?


    • KEvin

      First of all, because shafts do not “kick” and in fact they don’t bend the same way for all golfers either. Only for golfers with a late release will a shaft bend forward coming into impact. But that forward bend position happens before impact not at impact. Second, because the old testing method for finding the so called kick point in a shaft was proven many years ago to be unrelated to any part of a shaft’s performance. In this old test, a shaft was made to bend by pushing inward on both ends of the shaft. Where it bent the most under this force from both ends was considered the kick point or bend point. Problem is, it was found that all this test did was to identify shafts with similar rates of tapering and wall thickness in their geometry which may or may not have anything to do with how much a shaft bends and where on the shaft it will bend more or less.

      In the end, it was found that what we wanted to find in shafts were the differences in tip stiffness vs the differences in the stiffness of the rest of the shaft. Finding this was done far more effectively by taking actual stiffness measurements at different intervals along the shaft from the tip all the way to the butt. Do the same type of measurements on all shafts and then you can make apples to apples comparisons for the full length stiffness profile of a shaft, and from that, be able to make much better fitting decisions about shafts for golfers with different swing types.


  18. Today’s irons off the rack seem to be an inch longer and the lie angles are more upright and the lofts are bent stronger.

    I played speedblade irons for a year and could not get used to the length. I had the 5-6-7 cut down to the length of the 8 iron in that set.

    I never could figure out positionally, where to play the ball in my stance, both from me to the ball and from my shirt logo to the middle of my stance to get the best consistent results.

    what i had found for me is, distance is at my shirt logo with less consistency.
    middle of my stance for consistency with less distance.

    The closer to the ball, the higher the flight with a cut.
    Farther away, lower flight with a little draw.
    none of it felt comfortable.

    where is it recommended to play the ball when using single length irons shafts ?

    thank you for your time

    • There is no question that iron lofts are far stronger in iron sets today than they were 20-30 yrs ago. Going back to the 1980s and just using a 5 iron as an example, just about every company’s 5 iron was 32* loft and 37.5″ and 60″ lie. Today you see lofts all over the place from as low as 23* on some high tech game improvement models while some traditional forged iron models have the 5 iron set up at 28* loft. The average is around 25-26* for most usual game improvement iron models today.

      Lengths are not all that much longer. Here again, there is a little range out there in terms of length and again using the 5 iron as an example, you see some companies with 5 iron length at 38.5″ down to some at 37.75″. The norm though is 38″, which means over the past 30+ yrs, iron lengths are only longer by around a half inch.

      But lie angles have pretty much stayed the same. As with the other specs, you do see a little range in lie specs for each iron from one company to the next, but the usual or typical lie for the 5 iron as an example remains at 60 with wedges still at 64* as they all were 30-40 yrs ago.

      Iron length determines where the ball position is. If we use a typical incremental length set based on a 38″ #5 iron and with the irons being made in half inch increments for length, it has always been the usual method for the wedges up to 7-8 iron to be positioned in the center of the stance. Then with each iron up in length from there, the ball position progresses very slightly more forward until you see the 3 iron ball position about 2-3″ inside the left or forward heel in your stance. Of course, swing technique also has a say in ball position depending on how steep you are with your angle of attack and how much you may or may not move forward on the shot through the downswing. That’s why all golfers have to experiment with their ball position to find what works best for their individual swing characteristics.

      But for the single length irons as I have designed the Sterling set, which is based on either a 7 or 8 iron length as per the comfort of the golfer, the beginning ball position to try is in the center of the stance for each iron, because they all are going to be the same length. If the golfer tends to swing downward too much or has the hands much more in front of the ball at impact, then ball position may have to move a little forward to prevent de-lofting the irons at impact too much.


  19. Tom,

    Measuring Smash Factor while fitting seems to be gaining popularity.
    Would you please give me your opinion on the importance of this

    Thank you,


    • KEVIN

      As you know, smash factor is the ball speed divided by the clubhead speed. If you are using a VERY accurate launch monitor, the smash factor can tell you how close your clubhead is to the maximum allowed COR under the rules of golf. With a clubhead that is dead on the USGA max of 257 CT or 0.830 COR, the smash factor will be 1.495. Allowing for the fact that even the very most accurate launch monitors read the ball speed and clubhead speed with an error tolerance of +/-1mph, it is possible to see the smash factor be 1.52 and have the clubhead be conforming. The only real value of smash factor in a fitting is to tell you if the head you are testing or trying is as close to the USGA limit as possible. You have to realize that because all clubheads have a +/- error tolerance for every specification, whether you get a head that is right on the max smash factor of 1.50 or whether it is down at 1.45 is purely a random matter. No company sorts their heads for COR. So there is no way for you to ask to buy a head with a COR right at the limit of the rules. All you can do is to keep hitting heads until you find the one that gives you a smash factor for on center hit that is as close to 1.50 as possible. And that is far easier said than done because who’s going to let you test hit head after head after head until you find that one that is up there at 1.50? No one. But at the end of the day, the difference in real distance for a head that has a 1.50 smash vs one with a 1.45 smash is really not very much, like less than 3 yds. So as it turns out, using smash factor in fitting analysis is all well and good and all that, but it is not nearly as important as being able to be fit into the right length, loft, face angle, shaft, swingweight, grip size.


  20. Hi Tom,

    Thanks for your previous reply. Additional question regarding flex.
    I thought that I had read somewhere that you had expressed an opinion
    on shaft flex being that it is not as important with single length clubs or that they are stiff no matter what the flex do to the length?
    Is kick point more crucial? Please clarify.
    Thank you,


    • KEVIN

      Only with players who have acquired a refined sense of feel for the bending action of the shaft during the swing would flex and bend profile be that important for irons that are only of an 8 iron length or 7 iron length. While there are a number of experienced players who can feel the bending motion of the shaft in the driver, woods and hybrids, not that many can truly feel and react to the bending motion of an iron shaft in an iron as short as a 7 or 8 iron. The other category that could react to the flex/bend profile of a 7-8 iron length shaft would be those with a very high clubhead speed who also have a very late release. Now add these two groups up and you might find that to be 1-2% of all golfers.

      But because most people would freak out at the prospects of such an attitude about shaft flex/bend profile, we still always recommend taking the time to fit the shaft flex/bend profile as if it would be a major source of performance for the irons. That way everyone is happy.

      What IS the most important shaft parameter in fitting for single length is to get the shaft weight right for the golfer’s combination of downswing aggressiveness, strength, and sense of tempo/timing in their swing. So my point is that if you get the shaft weight right for the golfer, you could miss the flex by a full flex and nothing bad is ever going to happen to the performance. Reason is because all iron shafts get stiffer as they get shorter in ANY set. By the time you get to the 7 or 8 iron, the shaft in a properly fit set for a golfer is much stiffer in terms of actual bending amount because it has been tip trimmed more AND it is shorter. Both those things make a shaft not bend that much during a swing, which means few golfers have the ability to even feel the shaft bend in a 7 or 8 iron.


  21. Hi Tom, would you recommend to soft step the 6 and 5 irons to get the ball flight higher?

    Also curious on the club head speed, with all irons now at 8 iron length does a players club head speed stay maintained throughout the set? (e.g. 80mph SW-5i)

    • BOB:
      Perhaps for 0.001% of all golfers, soft stepping might make a little difference in the height of the shot with a single length set that is made to a 7 or 8 iron length. The very few for which this could have a tiny effect would be those with a much higher than normal swing speed AND who also with that have a very late release. Those are the swing characteristics that make a shaft flex or bend profile change show up more. For anyone else, nada for any measurable effect on shot height because the loft, the clubhead speed and the spin all combine to have FAR more of an effect on shot height than changing the flex/bend profile by 1/4 to even 1/2 of a flex when you are talking about a shaft in a 7 or 8 iron length of an iron.

      In all of our testing, the clubhead speed does remain constant for each single length iron within a normal golfer +/- tolerance range when all the irons are the same length. This is because in addition to being the same length in a single length set, all the irons have the same total weight, same swingweight/headweight, same balance point, same MOI. Every single element that has anything to do with swing feel or generation of clubhead speed is identical in each iron in a single length set.


  22. This club design intrigues me as the bending over for he lower irons causes me problems for full swings. 34″ wf measurements. Lots of shoulder problems from old injuries with a steep swing angle. About to turn 60.

    A 6 iron is probably my most comfortable height and I hit the 4/5 well. 7 iron distance is 140-160 (145 avg) depending on the state of my shoulder… I also hit a 3 fw well and cannot hit a 45″ driver consistently at all. I have been working on not taking a full swing as my shoulder doesn’t track well as my hands get much above my shoulders. Strength is still excellent.

    Curious as to your thoughts on one length for the irons and another for the wedges as well as the length of woods.

    • TIM

      First off, quit trying to play with a 45″ driver. There cannot be 2% of the golfers who have the swing characteristics to be able to effectively and consistently play with a driver longer than 44″. A big reason you hit the 3w well is because it is substantially shorter than 45″. The reason I designed the Sterling irons to be played at an 8 iron length of 36.5″ is because this makes the wedges far easier to get used to than if the single length set is made longer than that. Keep in mind, wedges in a conventional length set are in the order of 35.5″ in length. If you start making the single length to be a 6 iron length of 37.5″, now the wedges are +2″ longer than what the golfer was used to. That causes some real problems for many levels of golfers in terms of accuracy and distance control.

      If the golfer has a wrist to floor measurement of 36″ or longer, this is when the Sterling irons should be played at 37″ to give that golfer a little more comfort over the ball. But if you can get comfortable with a length of 36.5″, that is where we prefer to try to fit golfers for using a Sterling single length set because it just makes everything work so much better for shot consistency through the set as well as for the wedges.

      Hope this helps, and thanks very much for your interest,

  23. Hi Tom,

    I am curious I thought the tip trimming for a single length set would
    always be the same due to the head being about the weight of a 7 iron.
    But in one of your comments you mention that you should match the tip trim to the length, for instance 7 iron length 7 iron trim, 8 iron length 8 iron trim. Is this correct?

    • Kevin

      If you make all the irons in the single length set to be the same length as a 7 iron, you tip trim all shafts for a 7 iron installation. If you make all the irons in the single length set to be an 8 iron length, then all the shafts are tip trimmed as per an 8 iron installation. To do it otherwise screws up the flex installation of the shaft. Tip trim amounts for ANY set of irons will always be based on what iron number/length each club is to be. So when all the irons are to be the same length as a 7 iron, they all get tipped for a 7 iron installation – when all irons are an 8 iron length, they all get tipped for an 8 iron installation. head weight has nothing to do with the tip trim. The final playing length does.

    • Hi Tom,

      I am sorry but I am still a little confused. In a previous response
      you said to tip trim according to length in a single length set not
      the head weight. I asked Jeff Summitt of Hireko Golf who I am sure
      you are familiar with the same question and his answer was exactly
      the opposite.

      My exact question to him was “If I build a set of single length
      clubs at an 8 iron length of 36.5” should the tip trim be that
      of an 8 iron or a seven iron being that the club head weight
      is closer to a seven iron?

      His response “If you are adding weight to the head to make them
      an 8-iron weight, then tip trim as an 8-iron. However, if you
      leave the heads alone and the swingweight will be lighter as a
      result of the shorter length, tip trim as a 7-iron.”

      What am I missing or not understanding?

      Thanks so much for your patience and help.


    • KEVIN
      Perhaps the terminology is what is confusing you on this and confusing Jeff too since he has zero experience in a single length design or testing. Final LENGTH of an iron vs what is considered standard for the iron number determines what its tip trim will be, first and foremost. So if the final single length is to be an 8 iron length of 36.5″ which is std for an 8 iron, then ALL the shafts get tip trimmed as per the norm for an 8 iron tip trim for the shaft. The weight of the head means NOTHING with regard to tip trimming. Now if you have been a golfer who has used over or under standard length irons, the tip trim may or may not be adjusted – it depends on your experience with the over or under length fitting and assembly. For example, some clubmakers will increase the tip trim on a 1/2:1 ratio for lengths that are different than std for each head number. Let’s say you have been playing an 8 iron at a length of 37″ which would be +1/2″ overlength. Tip trim for that can be the normal 8 iron tip trim PLUS 1/4″ more. Half inch over then can call for 1/4″ more on the tip trim, hence the 1/2:1 ratio I spoke about. Likewise let’s say you play an 8 iron length of 36″ which would be 1/2″ under length. In that case some clubmakers will choose to REDUCE the tip trim by 1/4″ from what was the normal 8 iron tip trim for the shaft that was based on standard length. Again, HEADWEIGHT has NOTHING to do with this. it is all about what the final length is versus what the standard length is. You’re overthinking this.


  24. Curious as to why only 7 or 8 iron length ? My swing speed for a 7 iron is around 82 mph, but 75 ish for a 9 iron. My 9 iron though at 36″ feels so much better to me and has a tighter dispersion of 4 more yards than my 7 iron.

    I seem to present my 9 iron with less less dynamic loft in comparison to my other shorter irons as a comparable %, so is presented with pretty similar loft to my 8 irons dynamic loft (0.9degree diff). As a result of this I also get more out of it distance wise as a %, but with better spin. I am no golf expert but I am assuming that at 36″ it just fits my swing best and I perhaps present club and compress the ball better with my 9 iron.

    My 7 iron on the other hand is present with less dynamic loft, quite a bit, so i suffer with spin and stopping, even if is longer in carry.

    Is there any reason not to go to 36″ ? If its through loss of club head speed then could you also go with graphite shafts to get that extra speed back again from lightness ?

    Would love to hear thoughts about going 9 iron length as I am not concerned by giving up some yardage for tighter dispersion and control.

    As long as the gapping is fine then any reason not to consider 36″ and graphite shafts ?

    Thanks for your time.

    • WAYNE

      The reason I leaned toward a shorter length than other single length models had done was to help golfers adapt to the single length more easily in the wedges. The concept of single length works on the basis of making every iron the same for swing feel, the same for everything, so that the result could be better shot consistency, and more greens hit. IMO you begin to run a risk of not being able to achieve that with the wedges if you choose a single length that ends up being more than 1″ longer than the golfer was used to playing in the wedges in his conventional set. When the wedges are +1.5″ or more longer in the single length than they were in the golfer’s conventional set, the golfer can have problems with distance control and accuracy. Not a good thing.

      But I do not feel you can go shorter than 36.5 for the golfers of average stature and arm length or else you can drop the clubhead speed enough that more golfers than you would like will end up not being able to elevate the 5 iron to fly and carry as far and as high as the golfer should. No question though, if you want to push most golfers into single length for the 6 to SW and have them use a more conventional length 5 hybrid above the 6 iron, you can do that. You still would have 7 of the clubs in the bag with identical feel and to be played with an identical set up/stance/swing plane, which is half of the set.

      But I think most golfers would be wierded out when you told them they should not be using a 5 iron anymore because so many golfers do include a 5 iron in their conventional lengths iron set. That would be a tough one to overcome from a tradition and mental standpoint for many golfers. But as long as the golfer is ok with foregoing the 5 iron as part of the irons, you can go with a 36″ length. And that too could help a little more with the wedges. But do not think that going graphite in the shafts will bring back enough clubhead speed to bring the 5 iron into the bags of the majority of golfers.

      There is no guarantee that all golfers will see a clubhead speed increase with a change to graphite in the irons. Many do not. The effect of a lower shaft weight on swing speed is no guarantee for all golfers in other words. And one thing you learn early in club development is that few golfers are going to be happy if they hit a new club shorter than they hit a previous club of the same number.

      Hence why I chose 36.5 as the baseline length – it blends well into more areas of concern in a golfer’s conversion from conventional lengths to single length. But it was a very good question you asked and proved that you are thinking along the right lines.


  25. Hi Tom. Can you clear up some confusion regarding ball position: Should single length irons all be hit from the middle of your stance/8-iron ball position? If so, will the lauch angle (delivered loft) of say the 4 iron, not be much lower than a standard 4-iron hit from a more forward ball position? Thanks for all the great advice you have been giving over the years!

    • Steffen:

      If you have a normal angle of attack with your irons, then do play all the single length irons from the same ball position that you used for the 7 or 8 iron in your conventional length set. For players who are more steep into the ball with their irons, having the ball position a little bit forward of center would be best. Thanks very much and the very best to you in this great game,

    • Hi Tom:
      Firstly, after reading several of your articles and watching your educational videos over the years,I consider you as forthright and an extremely knowledgeable professor in the golf world. With that being said, I met with Gene Bonk @ ADS Golf in San Marcos, California. What a fine gentlemen he is. Gene built me a set of Sterling irons. I can’t tell you how much I enjoy hitting irons especially the five and six iron. In the past, a long iron to me was a six iron. Simply because I lacked confidence in the longer irons. The learning curve on the Sterling irons was on par with everything I had read from other players who had shared their Sterling experiences. Longer irons made you feel as though you had to go after them…..far from the truth. Swing them like an eight iron. I’ve had the set for almost three months I couldn’t be happier. Pulled the five hybrid out of the bag and had Gene make me a five iron a few weeks ago. I look forward to par 3’s over water!
      Working on lowering my index..(8)
      Thanks again for all that you do for the enjoyment of the game.


      Thanks very much for your interest and especially for having decided to spend some of your time working with Gene so he could determine your best fitting specs. I can guarantee you that anytime I hear a golfer has gone to see Gene, a genuine smile comes to my face because I realize it is a certainty the golfer will get the best fit and end up feeling better about his equipment. Thanks for your judgment to go work with him. And thanks very much for your kind words for me. I do sincerely appreciate it.


  26. Hi Tom,

    Could you please explain the lofts on a Single Length Set and how do they compare to a Traditional Set?

    I would have thought that the longer irons would require less loft to compensate for the loss of swing speed due to a shorter length and the opposite for in the shorter irons.

    Looking at specs this doesn’t seem to be the case…

    Thanks, Scott.

    • SCOTT

      I cannot speak for any of the other single length sets of irons out there. I can only speak for how and why I did what I did with the lofts on my Sterling single length set – which by the way if I do say so myself has now proven with thousands of sets in play and hundreds of feedback comments that what we did with the COR of the face + the lofts is working to create proper distance and proper distance gaps for all the irons, as long as the set makeup of the Sterling irons is well fit to the clubhead speed of the golfer.

      Yes, you are right in saying that when you make some of the irons in a set shorter than they were, you will lose some clubhead speed and from that can come a loss of distance versus what the golfer achieved in his previous conventional lengths set for some of the lower number irons. For sterling, to make up for that I did two things – one, I used my 15 yrs of experience in knowing how to design iron faces with a high COR combined with a little lower loft on the #4, 5, 6 and 7 iron heads to be the elements that bring back the lost distance that can come from these irons being shorter than they were in a conventional lengths set.

      So in the Sterling set, to go with the 0.825 COR face in the lower number irons, the 4 iron is 19*, 5 is 23*, 6 is 27* and 7 is 31* loft. At an 8 iron length, which BTW is shorter than what any other company out there is trying to do with their single length, these lofts + the high COR face works to achieve proper distance and distance gaps.

      Yes, there is no question that the number of irons you choose to play in a set of Sterling irons MUST BE MATCHED TO YOUR CLUBHEAD SPEED. This is no different than what you have to do in contemplating the purchase of any conventional lengths irons. To properly elevate a low loft requires a certain minimum amount of clubhead speed, ball speed and spin. TONS of golfers today cannot do this with a conventional length 3, 4 or 5 iron with what lofts are these days in so many sets of irons. It is the same with a single length set too. In trying a single length set, job one is to find out what is the lowest loft you can properly elevate to fly and carry to the distance you are used to with that number of iron. That dictates where your single length set makeup will begin. Above that you will be fit into hybrids or high loft woods that are longer than the length of the other single length irons below that.

      For example, in fitting the Sterling irons, we know that if the golfer has an 8 or 7 iron swing speed of 85mph or higher, he will be able to elevate the 4 iron to have it go proper distance vs what he used to hit his 4 iron in his conventional set. Under 82-83mph this becomes less possible because even with the high COR face, the 19* loft of the Sterling 4 iron becomes more difficult to elevate high enough to carry farther than the 5 iron. Hence for the 82-83mph player he would have a set makeup of #5 to SW and for the club above the 5, he would have perhaps a 20* hybrid at say, 38″ or so for the length to get that distance beyond the 5 iron.

      Then if the golfer has an 7 or 8 iron swing speed higher than 75-77mph, he should be ok with elevating the 5 iron in the Sterling set to fly and carry farther than the 6 iron in the set. But under 75mph for the 7/8 iron swing speed, the golfer should either opt for the Stelring 5 hybrid with its lower CG, OR he should skip the #5 and make his Sterling set be #6 to SW – with a 20* and 24* hybrid at 38/37.5″ length be above the #6.

      Being smart and choosing the right set makeup is key to success with single length. Most cases the golfer will have one less iron than he had previously with his conventional length set. But even if the golfer ends up with a #6 to SW set, he still has 7 clubs in his bag that all have the same identical swing feel and which require the same identical stance, posture, ball position, swing plane to help achieve more consistency with the irons. If he has the speed to use the 5 or even the 4, then his number of identical clubs hit with an identical swing keeps increasing in number to increase the chance for more shot consistency.

      But I will assure you that in any single length set that does NOT have high COR faces in the low number irons, there is no possible way that proper distance can be achieved unless the set is made to have all irons be a 6 iron length. And if you do that, you now put a big risk on most golfers being able to control the high number irons and wedges because at a 6 iron length they are too long in comparison to what these high number irons and wedges are in the conventional length sets the golfers are used to.

      Hope this helps,

  27. Hi Tom just writing an assignment for the pga and wonder if you had the tip trimming specs of the iron shafts for the single length set? The other spec has been a great help but want to demonstrate that the single length will be different to a traditional set when trimming. Any help will be appreciated.



    • MATT:

      The tip trim for EVERY shaft in the single length set is to be the same, based on what the tip trim is for the shaft of choice for that one length all the irons are being built to be. In single length, think of it as you are making a full set of all 7 irons or all 8 irons (depends on the length you choose for the single length) with the only difference being the heads have different lofts. So if the set is being made so all irons are a 7 iron length, then you trim every shaft as per the 7 iron’s tip trim amount. If the set is being made so all irons are a 6 iron length, then you tip trim every shaft as per the tip trim for the 6 iron for the shaft model being used. In single length irons, the shafts have to be identical in every club.




    • CALVIN
      The whole reason that single length irons even came about is because when you make every iron the SAME LENGTH, you perfectly duplicate every possible element that has anything to do with swing feel – same length means the shaft weight, shaft flex, shaft bend profile, total weight, swingweight, head weight, balance point, and moment of inertia of every iron is identical. This perfectly identical swing feel is one of the two things in a single length set that can lead to improved shot consistency and more greens hit in regulation. The second thing is the fact that when all irons are the same length and same specs, you will use the same stance, same posture, same spine angle, same ball position and same exact swing plane for every iron shot. That too is a big deal for potentially improving iron shot consistency.

      When you deviate from this by making some of the irons in the set longer than others, you break from this perfect duplication of swing feel and you break from this perfect duplication of the set up and swing for each iron. So if you deviate from the single length, you do not get as much chance to achieve as high of a level of possible shot consistency improvement.

      I designed our Sterling single length iron heads to be built to the clubmaker’s and/or golfer’s choice of either a 7 iron or 8 iron length for all the irons. Which one depends on what length the golfer is more comfortable with over the ball which is related to their height + their arm length. So yes, in our Sterling set, we do find that choosing the shorter length than what most other single length makers choose does increase the chance of achieving more shot consistency with all the irons because it is true that the shorter the length, the more consistent most of us will be anyway.

      If this shorter single length causes the golfer to lose distance with one or more of his lowest loft irons in comparison to the distance he had with those low loft irons in his previous conventional set, then the solution to this is not to lengthen those low loft irons because that destroys this concept of single length = identical swing feel and set up and swing for every iron. Instead, the golfer should find out by test hitting, what is the lowest loft iron in the single length set that he can still hit the same distance as that low loft iron in his conventional set. Then for clubs above that iron number, you use more conventional hybrids or high loft woods. So this means a golfer might have had a set of 3-SW irons in the past, all at different lengths. but in the single length set he may end up with a set of either #4 to SW or #5 to SW – and then for the clubs above either the 5 or 4, he uses a hybrid of conventional length. And still if a golfer is using a single length set of #5 to SW, he still is gaining a lot of benefit from having 8 of his clubs be identical in swing feel and identical for set up and swing.

      Hope this helps,

  28. Tom

    Thanks for such insightfulness on the topic. It is safe to say that the head weight issue is insurmountable and even the butchered set would require new shafts regardless so it is an impossible mission to turn an incremental set into a single length set. Thanks for the help, much appreciated. One last thing, what would you say posed the biggest issue when ensuring a consistent distance was achieved between each club in the single length sterling set?


  29. Tom, thanks for your comments. I know it’s not a feasible option to take an incremental set and cut them to single length however theoretically speaking let’s say we get the head weights correct, manage to adjust the lie angles and bridge the loft gaps accordingly is it still impossible to get the shaft flexes all the same?



    • Conor
      You’re assuming a LOT when you say “let’s say we get the headweights correct.” In a set of #4 to GW irons made to conventional incremental lengths, the headweights are typically around #4=246g, #5=253g, #6=260g, #7=267g, #8=274g, #9=281, PW = 285g. If the single length set is to be made to a 7 iron length, that means ALL the iron heads need to be around 267g. Adding 19g to a 4 iron head is no small task cuz that is a TON of weight to add. But the real problem that makes this impossible to do is the question of how do you remove 18g from the PW, 14g from the #9, 7g from the #8 ?? You can’t just take that kind of weight off an iron head without grinding the head which either ruins it or makes it look pretty darn bad. So you can’t really pose a question like you ask because the head weight issue is too much to overcome to convert a conventional set into a single length set. But at any rate, let’s say theoretically you could do it – in that case you would need to toss all the shafts but the one in the club that remains at its conventional length. And you would need to get new shafts for all the rest of the heads that would all be trimmed and installed the same way the 7 iron shaft is installed.


  30. Good morning Tom,

    If one is to take a set of irons with a traditional set make-up and alter them to a single length set, in what way will the shaft flexes be effected? And how does this affect the shaft frequency? Also, is it possible to get the shaft flexes back to a consistent flex?

    Kind Regards,


    • Conor

      First off, you don’t want to try to change a set built to incremental lengths into a single length set. The effect on shaft flex most certainly is one reason but not even close to the fact that the head weights will all be wrong so it will be extremely difficult to impossible to make all those cut irons end up with the same swingweight. In a single length set, all the shafts are trimmed the same way. So let’s say the single length set is based on an 8 iron length as in the case of our Sterling irons. All shafts will be tip trimmed for an 8 iron. Thus if you cut the irons in a conventional set to all be an 8 iron length, all shafts above the 8 iron will be more flexible progressively and all shafts below the 8 iron will be more stiff progressively.

  31. Hi Tom much appreciated the last comment this has helped me understand it much better and has some what talked my client out of wanting to destroy his set of irons. One final question for my own benefit can you explain to me why CHANGING LENGTH ONLY IS UNSATISFACTORY and why shaft flexes, swing weights, total weights, lie angles and loft variations will not match or be suitable. thanks once again for your help much appreciated Barry

    • BArry
      If you simply cut the lengths of each iron in a conventional set to be the same length, every one of the clubs is going to have a different swingweight. This will create a different headweight feel during the swing for every club. Headweight feel is a VERY important element in golf clubs for allowing a golfer to achieve a repeatable, consistent swing tempo and rhythm. You want the headweight feel to be the same for each iron to help do that. If you just cut down each iron to the same length, the lie angles will still all be different from being made that way when the set was made to different incremental lengths. So you would also have to bend the irons to have the same, correctly fit, lie angle for each iron. Also, the shaft flexes will all be different and not at all in sequence to each other if you do this, though this one thing would be the least of all the problems for most golfers to have to deal with. The biggest problem will be the huge inconsistency in the swingweights. That one thing alone would make such an experiment fail miserably for pretty much all golfers. If you want the full benefits of single length as I explained before, you cannot do it by altering an existing set. It cannot be done correctly.


  32. Hi Tom

    I work a local pro-shop in Ireland and have had a chat with some of my fellow professionals and they said that you are the person to talk to if i could get through to you in any way as according to the PGA you are the best at what you do i am starting to read on of your books and im finding it very intresting. I had one of my members come in to me last week and ask me would i be able to change all his clubs to 6 iron length 37.5 inches as he has looked at Bryson like a lot of other people and thinks it could work for him. his current club specifications are as follows

    Iron Length lie loft

    3 39inch 59deg 21deg

    4 38.5 60 24

    5 38 61 27

    6 37.5 62 31

    7 37 63 35

    8 36.5 64 39

    9 36 65 43

    P 35.5 65 47

    GW 35.5 65 52

    SW 35.5 65 56

    I have tried to tell the person that this job is not as easy at it sounds and he cant understand why and unfortunately for me i have not got enough knowledge around the topic to tell him the exact truth. Could you help me explain in comparison to his current set against the same length set he is looking for at 37.5 inches what would the difference be in say shaft lengths, lie angles, head weight and total weight variations. Also i know its a bit of a long shot but is there a fitter in Ireland that you know that deals in single length sets that i could talk to i really like your sterling irons idea and if i cant get through to my member i would like to recommend that he goes to see that person and get the set made to his exact requirements i know there is a difference in shaft length that he wants but its just giving him another option. Many Thanks

    • Hi Barry
      Always happy to help with information regarding anything to do with golf clubs and fitting. There are two big problems with trying to change an existing set of irons into a set of single length irons. One of these is insurmountable, the other is a maybe it is not too bad to overcome, but since the first reason is insurmountable, that means you can’t do it unless the golfer agrees that when you are done, his iron heads will look like shit !

      The big problem is that in a set of single length irons, every head has to weigh the same. In every conventional set made to incremental lengths, each head is made to a different weight. Most common is 3 iron = 239g; 4=246g; 5=253g; 6=260g; 7=267g; 8-274g; 9=281g; PW=288g. This is done so when you make the irons change in length by a Half Inch, the swingweights all come out the same.

      A single length set made to a 6 iron length of 37.5″ requires that all the heads would be around 260g. Now you can see the insurmountable problem with trying to change a conventional set into a single length set. You could stick a bunch of lead tape on the 3, 4, 5 irons to get them up to 260g. Might look a little odd on the 3 and 4 but it is possible to do that. Problem is the 7, 8, 9, PW – there is no good way to remove that much weight to get all these heads down to 260g without grinding the shit out of the heads, which would both ruin their playability and make them look less than desirable to most golfers.

      Then you have the matter of the lie angles. In a conventional set, each iron head is made to a different lie angle, usually graduating in 1* increments up from 58* on the 3 iron to 64* on the #9 and PW. In a single length set, because the lengths are the same, the lies are all the same too. The 6 iron lie is 61* in a conventional set. To make all the lie angles be 61* would require some of the irons in a conventional set to be bent by 3*. If the conventional set is a forged carbon steel set, that can be done. but if the set is a cast stainless, and if it is a cast 17-4 stainless as so many game improvement irons are today, you will have a hard time making a 2-3* bend. But it is a moot point because the weight problem is really insurmountable.

      Bottom line – you can’t do what the golfer wants.

  33. Hey Tom, I have been conducting a single length experiment for the last year ( using an old set of MP 64 heads that I have added weight to the lower lofted irons and drilled weight out on the higher – crude I know from a CG control standpoint but effective enough for a trial ). I am certified and have worked as a club repair man, but now just work on stuff for myself and friends, but I have a decent knowledge of club building principles. I am interested in the Sterling heads, but my question is about shafting. I see the cobra one length uses the KBS tour FLT which by all perception seems to be just a standard set of iron shafts butt cut to the same length. I’m sure the idea is still within the realm of a flighted shaft set and was helping to control the trajectory at the top and bottom end of the set. Is this a viable concept in your opinion? Also if a single shaft is more desirable for constant weighting, what is the preferable shaft length? The reason I ask is that using new specs a 7-iron is 37 1/4″ but traditionally that would’ve been a six iron length. So as a 7-iron shaft or a six iron shaft for 37 1/4 inch club more appropriate in respects to the shafts true flex specs? What is your approach to shifting the sets? Thx for your comments ahead of time, I am a long-time reader of yours and lend a lot of weight to your opinion.

    • Stacy

      During the development and testing phase in the Sterling irons, we tested the prototypes with a LOT of different shaft designs and bend profiles and combinations with the thought to see if there might be a way to use the bend profile to enhance trajectory at both ends of the set. Long story short, for 95% of all golfers, you could put an L into the low loft irons and an X into the wedges and it won’t make any difference in shot height. The reason is because in all sets of irons, the actual installed shaft in the 7 or 8 iron in the set is so stiff because of its short length that it hardly demonstrates any effect on launch angle or trajectory. Only if you get a player who has a very high clubhead speed AND who is VERY GOOD in terms of swing repeatibility can you ever see a change in shot trajectory for a 7 or 8 iron length from changing the bend profile within the same flex. So to try to work with changes in the bend profile through the single length set is a waste of time. It won’t do what you think it will do because iron shafts at that short of a length just don’t bend very much.

      Hence in fitting the shaft, you still fit the weight, flex and bend profile to the golfer’s swing characteristics as always. And once you choose a suitable shaft for their clubhead speed + downswing transition force + point of release + strength and desire for a specific total weight, you then tip trim them all for a 7 or 8 iron (whichever length you are choosing for the single length) and then you install and cut from the butt so all are the same playing length. You do not overthink the shaft in a single length set that is being made to a shorter length like an 8 or 7 iron length.


  34. I am a bit confused on the recommended hybrid length to fit in with the single length irons. Reading the posts here I see some discussion about keeping the 5-hybrid the same length as the irons and then other comments about going with a longer hybrid. I am in the lower swing speed category.

    Also, please review the recommended club progression beyond the 5-hybrid, to other hybrids, fairway woods, and the driver. I have a 45-inch driver that I struggle to hit consistently so am going to shorten to 44 or 43.5″. My 3 wood is 42″ and I wonder if shortening would help, even though I am relatively consistent with it. I recall you mentioned possibly putting together a recommended club “set” in the near future. Of course the club fitter can help assemble this but having a “baseline” recommended set would help a potential buyer like me understand your recommendations before meeting with the fitter.

    Thanks so much for the great info you have provided to the golf community.

    • PETE

      The debate is not a matter of what the hybrid length should be in the Sterling set, it is a matter of how low of a loft can your clubhead speed hit and generate the proper height and spin to be able to make the club fly farther than the club just above that in loft. For example, we see a cut off of 75mph for having EITHER the 5 hybrid or 5 iron in the Sterling set. Below that speed and we do not recommend the golfer use the #5 hybrid or #5 iron in the Sterling set. And we are talking clubhead speed with a 7 or 8 iron for this qualification, not the driver, not the 5 iron.

      In that case, the next club below the #6 iron would be a hybrid that would be longer than the Sterling single length irons so that the golfer could get more clubhead speed to be able to elevate the loft of that hybrid high enough to make the shot fly farther than the 6 iron. So if the Sterling #6 to SW irons were 36.5″ length for this sub 75mph player, the club below the #6 would likely be a 23-24* loft hybrid at a length not shorter than 38″. Below that in the set would then be either a high loft woor or hybrid of say 20-21* loft and with a length not shorter than 39″ so again, enough clubhead speed could be generated to make that club fly farther than the 23-24* hybrid of 38″ length above it.

      If the clubhead speed with the irons is over 75mph, then the #5 hybrid or #5 iron in the set would for sure be the same length as the other single length irons. Not longer just because it is a hybrid. The same because we see the #5 in the Sterling set, whether it be a hybrid or iron, as a part of the IRON SET.

      For sure you are doing the smart thing to shorten the driver. Just make sure if you do the shortening by cutting the butt end of the shaft, you add back some weight to the head to restore proper head weight feel. By just cutting the inch or inch and a half off, you will automatically drop the swingweight and with it, the sensation of feeling the presence of the head during the swing. Adding the weight back to the head of an existing club you cut shorter can really only be done easily with lead tape. But I can assure you, it is FAR better to live with some lead tape on the head than to ignore it.

      For the 3w, a length of 42″ is already shorter than what all standard 3w’s are these days. Normal 3w length is 43 to 43.5, so if you have this at 42″ and you can’t hit it well enough to be satisfied, then this is saying one of two things. 1) if you cut that 3w down to 42 and did not add any weight back to the head, do that for sure. 2) the other reason could be that you do not have a high enough clubhead speed to properly elevate the low loft of a 3w to get it to fly and carry. In general, if the driver clubhead speed is under 85mph, most people would have a hard time elevating the 3w to get it to fly farther than your 5w or even 7w. if so, drop the 3w from the set and use a 5w at say, 41″ to 41.5″ length as your next wood after the driver.

      Hope this helps,

    • Tom, thanks for the great clarification. I appreciate the answer for my particular situation. Besides seeking better consistency with help from the single length irons and fitting, it looks like I need to work on my swing speed also. I have been away from the game for 30 years but am in good health with nothing physically keeping me from improving my speed through technique and conditioning. Regarding shafts, would it make sense for the fitter to estimate my potential and fit for that, or fit for my present state, which my goal is to “outgrow”.

    • PETE

      With irons, it does not really hurt that much to fit and build a set for how the golfer is going to be in the future. with the driver and woods, it’s not a good idea to do that because there are more things that could affect performance in a significant way in the driver and woods than there are in the irons. The main one would be set makeup – whether you have a #4 to SW or #5 to SW or #6 to SW as your set. This is chiefly a matter of clubhead speed with a little bit of skill tossed in. If you gain clubhead speed and skill, you then would be able to elevate the 5 or then maybe the 4 iron to be able to have it be a working part of the set. Clubhead speed changes can also affect the shaft flex decision, but really, in a set of irons made to a 7 or 8 iron length, the flex is just not that critical to performance. It is in the driver and woods and it is for higher speed players with very aggressive tempo, but far less of a big deal in the irons. What you must get right now will be the weighting of the clubs – shaft weight and swingweight – and the lie angle and the grip size along with what set makeup is best for you right now. You could always add on the other irons later when you get to the point you can hit them properly for height and carry distance.

      Hope this helps,

  35. Should the hybrids be the same length of the irons if they are same weight, lie and adjusted loft of a single length set?

    • Caleb

      I always designed my hybrid models so they would be built to the same length as the iron of the same/simiar loft that is being replaced by the bybrid. most of the big companies for whatever dumb reason have chosen to design their hybrids to be anywhere from 1″ to 2″ longer than the iron of the same/similar loft. Probably because they persist on selling clubs on the basis of hitting the ball longer. But if you use hybrids that are longer than the iron you wish to replace, you typically end up hitting the ball too far and messing up the distance gaps between the hybrid and the next iron down in the set. If the hybrid is the same length as the iron being replaced, you can start out fitting it at the same lie angle as well. But – depending on the shaft you use in the hybrid, you may find the dynamic lie will be a little different. So it is always a smarter idea to always do a separate dynamic lie fitting check test with any new club you add to the bag so that any possible shaft bending or swing changes with the new club are picked up in the dynamic lie fitting test.

      Now, if you have a single length set, this is all different. First things first in a single length set is to find out what is the lowest loft iron that you can hit high to fly and carry at the shorter single length. Let me use an example to try to better explain what I am getting at. In our Sterling single length set, the optimal length is an 8 iron length of 36.5″. At that length, all the Sterling irons will be shorter than the #3, 4, 5, 6, 7 irons in any conventional incremental length set. That means for most players, the clubhead speed they generate with each Sterling iron is going to be a little less than the typical clubhead speed they generate with the 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 in their conventional set – because all these conventional irons are longer than an 8 iron length. And longer length usually means a higher clubhead speed.

      But with the Sterling irons, what I did was to make the #5, 6, 7 irons with a high COR face so that this can increase ball speed over a normal conventional iron and from it, make up the potential lost clubhead speed that will come with the 8 iron length used in the #5, 6 and 7 irons in the Sterling set.

      But there is a point of clubhead speed where the 8 iron length with the high COR face cannot generate that same distance and shot height that you would get with the longer length of the conventional irons. If the golfer has an 8 iron clubhead speed of 80mph or higher, he will be able to get the same distance or even a little more distance with his Sterling 5 iron at its 8 iron length. but if the golfer has an 8 iron speed of say, 75mph or lower, then he probably won’t get the same distance and shot height with the Sterling 5 iron at its 8 iron length that he would with his normal 5 iron at its 38″ length.

      In such cases when the golfer finds that he cannot hit the Sterling 5 iron as far as his longer conventional 5 iron, then he needs his Sterling set to be a #6 to SW and for the 5 iron he would be using a hybrid of say 23-24* loft but at a length of 38″ so he can get the clubhead speed to be able to hit this 23-24* hybrid longer than he hits the Sterling 6 iron at its 8 iron length. Above the 23-24 hybrid the golfer would then be advised to use either a 20-21* loft hybrid at 38.5 to 39″ length OR he could use a 20-21* #7 wood made to 39-40″ length as well, if he prefers the shape of a wood to the shape of a hybrid.

      So the answer really is that when using single length irons, you really have to find out what is the lowest loft that your clubhead speed can hit high to fly a normal distance for you. Whatever that iron is, then above that come hybrids to high loft woods that have to be longer than the length of the single length irons.

      Hope this helps,

  36. Have you made any sets for women and what if anything did you find in determining the final length?

    • CALEB

      because I have always believed so strongly in custom fitting, I have never really designed any stock, standard women’s sets or women’s designs. In the world of custom fitting, there is no such thing as gender. There are only golfers with different combinations of size, strength, athletic ability and different swing characteristics. There are women with more size, strength, ability and swing characteristics than men, and vice versa. To design a head that is said to be just for women is misleading because there are women that play like some men and some men who play like a typical woman. So I have always designed my clubhead models to be able to be custom fit to ANY golfer who has the game and swing characteristics that match to that head model’s characteristics.

      I can say that if you look at a so called “typical” woman golfer of slower swing speed with less strength and less swing aggressiveness, our model 730CL could be a good model for this type of woman golfer because it is created to match to a player with slower swing speed. But there are some men as well with a slow swing speed for whom the 730CL could be a good set selection too.

      Length is not a product of gender. In the woods, length is a matter of swing characteristics and playing ability and athletic ability. So if you have a man OR a woman who is say, an 18 hdcp with an 80mph swing speed with an outside in swing path with an early release and a smooth passive swing tempo, the driver may only be 42-43″ in length. On the other hand, man or woman if you have a golfer with a 6 hdcp with a 95mph speed with an inside out path and late release, the driver may be 44″ in length to 44.5″. Driver and wood length fitting is all about ABILITY not gender.

      In the irons, length is far more a matter of height PLUS arm length. We gauge this with a measurement of the distance from the wrist to the floor of the golfer. And from that, over years of study of golfers, we created a chart that references a specific iron length to a specific wrist to floor measurement. Now it is true that because most women are shorter and have a shorter wrist to floor measurement, their iron length is shorter than most men who are typically taller with a greater wrist to floor measurement. But you can have women who are taller than men and who have a greater W to F measurement too – and if so, then for comfort sake they would likely have an iron length that could be longer than that man’s iron length.

      In short, there is no gender in fitting. There are only different golfers of different characteristics which dictate the fitting parameters they need.


    • Tom,

      Thanks for all of the info; I guess I really meant that most women have a slower swing speed and would have a harder time getting the ball trajectory up in the single length set and even with hybrids the length would matter. I made my wife a set with the hybrids 4 and 5 the same length and she is doing fine with that. I was surprised how fast she got used to the set; about a week of playing. The jury remains out until the end of they year to see if her index goes down, but the theory behind one length sure makes sense; especially for higher index players. I was able to get a pretty good 10 to 12 yard distance between her set including the hybrids, so I know it worked out okay. Thanks again for the reply.

  37. Hello Tom!
    Which clubs will you be offering initially for your left-handed set?
    Are you still evaluating a single length hybrid/ fairway wood?

    • Philip:
      Thanks much for your interest. Left hand version of the Sterling will begin with the 5 iron to SW, no hybrid for the left hand set to begin with because based on the RH hybrid, the percentages just don’t stack up to saying it could be popular enough in the left hand to merit the investment in the tooling and inventory.

      I am still working on prototypes for a combination fwy wood + hybrid set makeup to complement the Sterling irons. Nothing concrete yet but I Hope to decide on how I want to do that within the next month.


  38. I am really interested in your clubs. Is there anywhere in Australia where they can be fitted?
    Dave Kilmore
    Adelaide Australia

    • Hi Dave, thanks very much for your visit and your interest in professional custom fitting. As a matter of fact, right in your area is Craig Forth of Custom Fit Golf Australia. I know Craig very well and I can verify that he is a very experienced and knowledgeable clubmaker/clubfitter to help you find your best fitting specs to match to your swing characteristics. In fact, on his website you can see a shot of Craig with me when he came over to my shop for a visit and some more teaching/training. His contact information is as follows – Phone: 0439 884 667; Email:; Web:

      Thanks again and the very best to you in this great game,

  39. I’m not a club expert, but I am an “advanced beginner.” Here’s my take:

    Single-length irons set out to improve two things–one of which might not actually be a problem. First, they give the golfer an opportunity to put the same swing on every iron shot. This is true whether we’re talking about the old Tommy Armour EQLs or todays Sterling irons. But….this might be a fix to a non-existent problem. I’m not convinced that the differences in swing planes between longer and shorter irons are significant–or even exist at all. Do you really, consciously, hit your 5-iron with a flatter swing than you use on your, say, 8-iron? Or does this occur naturally–and only slightly at that–because of the length of the club?

    The second value–the one I think should be embraced–is the opportunity to hit longer irons with shorter shafts. The two things that make long irons harder to hit are (a) longer shafts, which make it more difficult to square up the clubface at impact, and (2) lower lofts, which impart less backspin and, thus, encourage MORE sidespin (hooks and slices). Hitting a long iron with a shorter shaft addresses (a) above, but not (b). Still, the opportunity to improve long-iron performance is exciting. But at what cost?

    Single-length irons tend to bring about two negative factors. First is the challenge of maintaining distance gaps in the longer (lower-numbered) irons. In traditional irons, gaps are maintained by two factors: longer shafts and lower lofts (and launch angles). One of these–longer shafts–is lost in this concept, making it harder to maintain gaps. More on that below.

    The second potential negative factor is introducing longer shafts to shorter irons, particularly wedges. In the Tommy Armour set, designed around a 6-iron-length, you were hitting wedges with really long shafts, making them harder to hit.

    Again, in the Tommy Armour clubs, you found the worst of both worlds: harder-to-hit “short irons” and “long” irons that didn’t maintain distance gaps for most people. But…..

    The Sterling irons address these shortcomings in a couple of neat ways. First, they help maintain distance gaps in the “long” irons by using higher COR in the club heads. Second, because they’re (typically) designed around an 8-iron length, the wedges aren’t really so much longer (1 inch above standard). Imagine being able to hit your 5-iron at an 8-iron length! Can you? Maybe.

    One of the biggest challenges in the “long” irons is having sufficient swing speed to take advantage of the increased COR. Slower swing speeds won’t allow you to compress the clubface sufficiently to take advantage of this feature. But Tom assures us that most of us will. So what to do?

    Go hit ’em. Try them out. See what they feel like to you. Yes, there are inherent limitations and inherent advantages. See what those mean to you and your game. See if the limitations are even a factor for you–they might not be. See if you can leverage the advantages for your game and get better results. Work with a certified Wishon clubfitter and see if these are right for you. You won’t know–you CANNOT know–until you do.

  40. Re: Sterling irons:
    It’s sad to see U tube and Internet self proclaimed golf experts discuss Sterling irons.
    – they make reference to 1989 and Tommy Armour EQL irons and the One club designs.
    They use this data to knock all the work the Tom Wishon has done.
    – one has to be aware of how the Sterlings were designed and how the 5,6,7 differ from the sand wedge – 8 iron.
    Class A pro , Mark Crossfield tested the Sterlings on U tube and he was impressed.
    I have played just over 30 rounds with the Sterlings and they are the best irons I have ever struck in 20 years.
    Your plane is the same with each iron and your distance in my case is slightly longer than my Ping G 5 irons.
    The dispersement is excellent.
    The longer you use these irons the better they get.
    The real key is accuracy combined with consistency.
    I strongly suggest these naysayers should get to a Wishon club maker and try a set.
    If they have any golf ability they will quickly see these irons are real game changers.

    • Steve:

      Thanks very much for your support and we’re so very pleased to hear that you like the performance of the Sterling irons. Good for you !!

      Yes, I sometimes think if I had a dollar for every self professed equipment expert around, I could have a really nice vacation to go to a golf resort and forget about these windbags who really don’t know what they are talking about. Perhaps you should go to their videos and type a comment similar to the testimonial you kindly shared with us here !!

      Thanks Steve !

  41. I am intrigued by the Sterling irons. I have no problem getting the ball In the air and generally do not like offset clubs (the look does not works for me – I always feel that the club face is open). In the future, are there any plans to offer these with little to no offset? Or is it necessary to make the clubs work because of the need to get the ball up because of the low lofts?

    • SEAN

      The Sterling irons are in no way offset as much as what you have learned to dislike. Game improvement offset irons from companies like Ping and Callaway for example have an offset measurement of 10mm. The Sterlings are PROGRESSIVE offset so they start in the 5 iron at 5mm and then it decreases progressively to 2mm in the high number irons and wedges. There is a HUGE difference between this and what you have seen that you dislike. But you need to see it to know for yourself. Not one person, and we have had a good number of low hdcps buy the Sterlings, have complained in the least about it.


    • Hello Tom!
      Re Sterling irons for left-handed golfers. If you made the decision to do these irons for lefties, how long would it take to tool up and have them available?

    • Philip

      That would be about 5 months at the best for die making + first production. We’re close to pulling the trigger on the left hand.


  42. When tip trimming the shafts for the SL irons, do you tip all of them to the 8 iron suggested flex amount or do you trim them to the recommended amount for each individual iron loft? Thanks for your help.

    • RON

      For single length shaft installation EVERY SHAFT GETS THE SAME TIP TRIM as per the usual tip trim instructions for an 8 iron for the shaft you are using in the assembly. If you make the set to be 7 iron length, then you tip trim every shaft the same as per the 7 iron tip trim instructions for the shaft you are using. From a shaft installation standpoint, if you go with the 36.5″ length, you are making a set of all 8 irons. If 37″, you;re making a set of all 7 irons. But the loft is different on the end of all these duplicate shafts.


  43. Hi Tom,

    I am strongly considering purchasing the Sterling Irons as they fit my swing style much better than a set of standard length clubs. I currently play with a standard length set and use my 4-iron off the tee, as this is the longest club that I can hit consistently. Since the 5i/5h are the longest clubs in the Sterling set, I’m wondering what your recommendation might be for longer shots? Are there clubs from other sets that could be incorporated into the Sterling set? Just use the Sterling 5i off the tee? I can hit my standard 4i about 250 off the tee, but I’m horrible with longer irons/woods/drivers.

    Thank you,

    • ERIK
      I am going to estimate that the loft of your current 4 iron is probably in the realm of 23*. Sterling #5 hybrid and 5 iron are both 23* loft to go with the high COR face so they hit the ball far enough at the shorter 36.5″ single length. What we’re hearing now that the irons have been shipping for 3+ months is that many players do hit the Sterling 5 a little bit longer than they hit their former 5 iron. So what they tend to do for the clubs above the #5 is to go with a hybrid of 20-21* loft, and at a length of 38 to 38.5″. then above that they usually go with a 5 wood at 18* loft but smart advise says to do that 5w just a little shorter than industry avg for a 5w – meaning around 40″ and not longer than that for control.

      With you saying your are horrible with longer clubs and with your very long distance capability, you should be using a MUCH shorter length driver, woods and hybrid than what is the norm out there. 43 to 43.5″ driver, if you have a 3w make it not longer than 42, even 41 1/2 would be better. Then the 40″ #5 wood, the 38.5″ #3 hybrid and then the Sterlings.


  44. Hi Tom

    Is it worth considering “two length” irons. One length of (say) a PW for #9-SW, and a second length of (say) a 6 iron for #4 – #7? I ask because virtually all golfers will have a driver and fairway woods / hybrids in their bags (which will have different shaft lengths to your single length irons). Therefore every golfer will always have 3 or 4 different club lengths in the bag. So the question is, is it optimal to have 5-SW all one length? In order to get the optimal distance spacing and launch angles, it seems logical to me to have a similar of number of clubs of each different length. Hence the suggestion of “two length” irons. Please let me know your thoughts.

    • Luel:

      Please understand that there are no hard or fast rules about club lengths. You can make your clubs to any combination of different club lengths that you think might work for you for whatever explanatory reasons. As such over the years when it comes to irons, there have been times when iron sets have been made with 1/4″ length increments, 3/8″, the usual half inch, sometimes made with the 3, 4, 5 of one length, the 6, 7, 8 of another and the 9, PW, GW to a third length. Whatever works for the golfer is fine.

      However, do NOT mistake that for what is the real purpose of conceiving of a single length set. The reason purpose of making all the irons to be the same length is so that every single possible factor that controls the swing feel of the clubs is identical and two, so that the golfer adopts the same exact stance, posture, ball position and swing plane for every shot with every iron. Those things have the chance to lead to a greater level of swing repeatibility and shot consistency.

      If you change that to make the irons of different length, no matter what that relationship is, you change away from this potential benefit of single length to offer perfectly identical swing feel and the same exact swing motion for every iron.


  45. Hi Tom,
    These clubs are certainly very interesting. Would you recommend my girlfriend who is a beginner to test them or are the construction of the heads to hard to use for her? If you think that would work, can you recommend a club fitter in the eastern/south eastern parts of Scotland?

    Best regards
    Erik Lundkvist

    • ERIK:

      More than likely your friend does not have a very high clubhead speed. So if she is not more than 60mph with a conventional lady #5 iron, then if you were to go with single length irons for her, there should not be an iron lower than the #7. The length could be ok at 36″, and you would be looking for high loft fwy woods or hybrids for the clubs above the #7 iron.


  46. Love the idea Tom. Curious about one thing. I see that you’re using eight iron length shafts. If you were to use a shat different from what comes standard from you (i.e. kbs, true temper,etc.), how would you do it? Or is this not an option?

    • PAUL:

      If you choose the 37″ length for the Sterling irons, you treat that as if you are making a set of all 7 irons so you would use all 7 iron shafts or you would tip trim all the shafts the same as for a 7 iron. And if the chosen single length is 36.5″, you treat that as if you are making a set of all 8 irons so you would use all 8 iron shafts or you would tip trim all the shafts the same as for an 8 iron.

  47. Tom,
    I would LOVE to be contacted when the LH version becomes available!
    How many sets would have to be pre-sold to justify the investment on your part?
    Perhaps a pre-sale is warranted?

    • Joshua

      We’re looking at it carefully and as you know from your comment, the percentages have to add up to make the investment in the tooling dies and production inventory make sense. Never before in my 31 yrs in clubhead design have I seen a LH model sell more than 8% of the numbers it will in RH. so that’s the number that has to be there to do it. We’ll hope it can happen !

      Thanks for your interest,

  48. Do you have plans to make a kids set?

    • Paul
      No I don’t. I don’t think it is a good set concept for little kids because their clubhead speed is too low. Also a kids’ set has to be able to adapt to many different lengths since kids will vary so much in height during all the ages that parents might be getting them into the game. I don’t see single length as being viable until the golfer gets old enough that he or she has developed more of an adult swing speed. Then it can stand in to do something to help with shot consistency.


  49. Hi Tom,
    I am really interested in your sterling single length irons and extremely keen to custom fit a set. I have dual residence, in Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia). Please let me have your nearest club fitters in Hong Kong and kuala lumpur. Tks

    • Thank you very much for your interest in our company and the new Sterling single length iron design we created. In Kuala Lumpur, I would recommend you contact JNG (Malaysia( SDN BHD. The head clubmaker there is Nathan Hauser and he has been operating JNG Golf for quite a long time, offering custom fitting to golfers in KL and around that area of SE Asia. Nathan is good, he is very experienced and would do a good job in the fitting. You can call him at (60) 379 800 284 or at (60) 122 3316 153. or by email at Or you can contact his associate at

      Thanks very much,

  50. I’m fascinated by the concept of your SL irons and would like to be fitted. I’m 6’4 inches and have always had clubs extended in length and yet I have always found myself choking up on the grip. Do you have anyone who can I see for a fitting in New Jersey? Once fitted how long does it take to get a set?

    • RICHE
      There are quite a few very good clubfitters in New Jersey. Best way to narrow this down is for you to head to the FIND A CLUBFITTER search tool on our website at You’ll find it right in the middle of the home page. Input your town/city and up will come the clubfitters in the order of closest to your location. If you wish, you can also send us the name of your town/city to and we will be happy to recommend the clubfitter we know best with the best knowledge that is closest to you. We’re gaining on the back orders for demand of the single length heads being ordered by the clubfitters around the country and the world. Right now if the clubfitter placed an order with us, it should ship by the 3rd week of June.

      Thanks very much

  51. Tom,

    Thank you for the response. I was actually looking at Keith’s website for firing info. I am in that area quite often so I will pay him a visit.



    • JAMES

      That’s good to hear. You’d have a great time meeting and working with Keith and you would learn a TON of interesting stuff in addition to walking away with the best fit for clubs you could possibly have.


  52. I am very interested in this technology. I have always had trouble hitting long iron high enough to stop on the green. I have a swing speed of 81 mph with my 6 iron and play to a 10 hi. Where would you recommend getting fit around Houston, TX? Is it worth coming to your headquarters in Durango?

    • JAMES
      Thanks very much for your interest. Unfortunately since a couple of Houston clubmakers retired in the last 2-3 yrs, we really do not have anyone we have screened or who has approached us with a level of skill to work with our designs in their fitting in the Houston area. If you could possibly arrange to go to Kerrville, TX (which would be a LOT, LOT closer than Durango!), there you’d find Keith Chatham of Precision Fit Golf. Keith is IMO one of the 5 best clubfitters in the country. I’ve known him since the early 90s and have mentored him over the years so I am well aware of his level of expertise. If that’s possible for you to do, you really would undergo the best fitting you could get, anywhere. Keith’s number if you can do that is 830-257-1234 and email is he has a website at

      Hope this helps and thanks again,

  53. I remember several years ago Tommy Armour came out with the EQL’s. As I recall all the irons were the length of a 6 iron as per surveys which suggested that the 6 iron was the easiest to hit. I liked the idea but never bought a set. They sort of faded away due to lack of interest. I started to build a set with components but the challenges of equalizing club head weights without a good scale turned me off, not to mention bending lie angles on cast clubs. But here’s my situation. I’m 68 years old and have spinal stenosis where L5 meets the sacrum. That sounds worse than it is. Most older men have it. But my back does tend to tighten up a bit during a round. Of course different clubs requires a little different posture. I’m thinking if I can maintain the same posture on every iron shot this may help my back. Just a thought. This may be just the thing for us older less supple guys.

    • Steve:

      It was 1989 when Armour first introduced the EQL woods and irons. I don;t know where they might have gotten that survey information that said the 6 iron was the easiest iron to hit, but that information was totally wrong and remains so today. Of all the irons, the easiest one to hit will forever be the shortest iron in the set. This is because there is a decades old credo in clubfitting technology that says, “the longer the length and the lower the loft, the harder the club will be to hit.” Absolutely no question about that.

      The reason Armour and every other company who has marketed a single length set has chosen the 6 iron length as the length of all the irons is because of this one fact – when you shorten the length of an iron from what it was before, you will lose clubhead speed from the shorter length and you will lose ball speed and distance for the same loft on the iron. Hence if you realize that the standard lengths of a 3, 4, 5 iron for years have been 39, 38.5, 38 inches, then you can see why a 6 iron length was chosen for all of these previous single length sets – and is still the length of choice for the current single length offerings from other companies out there today.

      The big problem that using a 6 iron length brings to the performance of a single length set is that too many golfers will hit the 8, 9, PW, gap wedge and SW too far with that much length. 6 iron length for a PW, gap and SW is about 2″ or more longer than the length of these clubs in a conventional iron set today. That 2″ more length brings about a higher clubhead speed for these clubs which in turn brings about more distance than what the golfer is used to from his previous set. And if the lofts are not adjusted to be farther apart between clubs in the high number end of the set, the 6 iron length can also force the distance gaps between the irons and wedges to be closer together than the golfer wants or is used to in his conventional set.

      That’s all why we chose to do our Sterling single length set on the basis of a 36.5″ #8 iron length, not a 37.5″ #6 iron length. That way you don’t have anywhere close to the tendency to over hit the 8, 9, PW, GW and SW. And then the way we make up for the potential of lost distance with the low number irons is with our proprietary high COR face design in irons that we pioneered in 2004 and have used on three previous conventional iron sets for our company in 2004, 2007 and 2011.

      Now the part you really want to know about – can our Sterling single length set be better for your back pain issues. I’ll be honest – maybe not. it depends on whether you get more back discomfort when you use the 8 iron in your current set, because that’s the length the Sterling irons would be. not 37.5″ 6 iron length but an inch shorter. I know that might be a tough question to answer because how often do you hit that many 8 irons for you to know? Hence maybe before pulling the trigger to buy, you might want to sacrifice a day and go to the driving range and hit 30 shots with your 8 iron only. Then see if you have back discomfort.

      I have a bro in law with back issues. Now I understand not all back issues are the same. But in his case, the only way I was able to help him get some relief was to make his irons a good bit longer so he would not have to bend over nearly as much – which was what he felt was exacerbating his back pain when he played. Now that forced him to have to get used to the longer lengths from a consistency and distance standpoint which was not easy – but he was willing to do that just because the longer lengths did bring more relief from the back discomfort.

      Hence I bring this up to you to think about it first before you act. I would definitely try to take a day and hit nothing but 8 irons at the driving range to see if you feel worse or not from having to bend over that much during the swings. To me when having worked with guys like my bro in law, it is not the matter of having all the irons be the same length that helps their back. It is finding what length seems to cause less pain over a whole day of play.

      Hope this helps,

  54. Tom,
    Count me in for a left handed set when they become available. Are they available with graphite shafts? I really think these single length irons could be a revolution !
    Any plans for your 777HS hybrid in a 4H LH ?
    I love my 3H, and would love to have the 4.

    • PHILIP:
      We’ll hope the demand for the Rh keeps coming so it gives us the chance to tool up and manufacture the model in LH. Problem is, no left hand model has ever done more than 8% of the units it will in RH. So for a smaller company like us, we need to see that the 8% can cover the cost of tooling dies and inventory production. We’ll hope for that soon. Same story for the 775 #4 in LH. RH units times 8% makes a tough argument.

      Thanks very much for your interest and for your support !


  55. i am interested in the single length irons. before i commit, will you please show me the data you gathered while hitting these clubs that shows that they have “normal” distance yardages and “normal” distance gaps between clubs like my traditional set does.
    thanks marc anduss arlington tx

    • Thanks for your interest Marc. In all honesty, hit testing data on ANY club model cannot tell you what you want to know, which is – can YOU hit these irons well enough and to the distances you need for you to be able to play with them. Golfers differ in clubhead speed and angle of attack tremendously. Those are the two golfer characteristics that combine to determine how far you hit any combination of length + loft in a club design. And that’s precisely related to why we only have our designs sold buy independent custom clubfitters, and never in big golf stores to be sold in some standard form off the rack.

      years ago companies used to publish all sorts of their robot and golfer hit testing data on new models. But that went away because so many companies were found to “tweak” the data in their favor and golfers in general became very skeptical about the accuracy of such information. Besides, robot hitting or other golfer hit testing can’t tell you what you want to know unless that golfer(s) in the test had PRECISELY the same clubhead speed and angle of attack as you have in your swing.

      The clubmakers will analyze you and your swing characteristics, then construct a test club(s) that you would be able to hit to see how the clubs can work for YOU and only YOU. From that comes your decision to go or not go. In the Arlington/Dallas area, there are a handful of decent, very experienced clubmakers with whom you could work to try before you buy, which is really what you want to know before you pull the trigger.

      The two best clubmakers closest to you are:

      Gary Pickle
      Pickle’s custom Golf
      Euless, TX

      Tim Brantley
      The Golf Station
      Hurst, TX

      You’ll want to call to inquire if they have their Sterling single length iron demos for them to use to construct hit testing clubs to try. We’ve had quite a big demand for the heads from clubmakers such that we are about 6 weeks behind in shipping orders. We’ll get there eventually but you should call for sure to inquire about things like services, pricing and all that plus to ask about when they expect to have their demos.

      Thanks very much for your interest,

  56. Thank you for all the information. Where close to Walnut Creek, Ca. 94595 can I find a reliable club fitter for your clubs? I noticed that Bryson De Chambeau’s clubs are 10*upright. I’m 5’8″ with a 26″ inseam and I have a very shallow or flat swing. Shouldn’t I have clubs with a flatter lie than the -4*? I’m 71 and shoot from high 6o’s to low 70s. No longer have an index but was a 3 before I had spinal fusion 12 years ago. I’m actually playing better now that I’m retired. By the way, I recently experimented with jumbo grips on my clubs. Woods and hybrids and short irons worked fine; Long irons not so much! Any thoughts on this?

    • RICH

      thanks much for your interst. First and foremost, the concept of single length iron design has nothing on its own to do with the way Bryson has his set specs set up. Bryson uses a very different SWING METHOD called single plane. to swing this way, he could if he wanted to, do it with normal incremental length irons. but he just happened to choose to do it with single length irons. It is his swing plane and swing method that dictates his very upright lie and the very large grips. In no way do you have to swing this way to use single length irons. No way. Single length irons can be fit to ANY golfer’s swing, posture, set up. You should find whatever set up and swing method is good for you with your spinal fusion, then fit the clubs to that.

      In the East Bay area, I recommend you contact Micheal Clark of Fore Seasons Golf in Berkeley for any of your fitting needs. I have personally known Michael for many more years than either one of us cares to think about now !! He’s VERY good, VERY knowledgeable and VERY experienced. No one in the East Bay is better. Period. his number is 510-841-0972, his email is and he has a website at

      Thanks much, hope this helps and the very best to you in this great game,

  57. Just watched a video of Doc’s where he demoed these clubs. His intent was to go with 6I-GW, forgoing the 5 because he felt he didn’t have the swing speed to see the distance gap needed. Then he found he hit the 7I farther than the 6I, seeing the need to go without it. There’s a lesson here.

    Even though Tom is making great strides on the technical end, using COR to not only keep up the proper distance gaps and to permit the use of a shorter shaft (8I shaft), physics will only allow you to take this so far. In order to make this concept work, there will be a minimum swing speed necessary in order to maintain useful distance gaps in the lower-numberde (farther-hitting) irons. This is true no matter what technology is being used, but can be mitigated somewhat by using different materials and designs.

    The lesson: get properly fitted! The slower you swing, the less likely you can take advantage of these–you won’t be able to hit a 5I your normal distance when it has an 8I shaft if you don’t have sufficient swing speed.

    With traditional clubs, players see a compression of distance gaps in the longer clubs, mitigated only by progressively longer shafts. But slow swingers can’t maintain those gaps and the longer clubs don’t produce. For them, switching to hybrids and fairway woods are the alternative.

    Tom is offering an amazing opportunity to have a set built around an 8I length. (The Tommy Armour EQL was designed around a 6I shaft.) Grooving that swing will make hitting the now-longer 9I and PW much easier than if they were fitted with a 6I shaft. But please, get to a certified club fitter and see what will work for you–if at all.

  58. Will your sterling single length irons be available in left hand

    • Kevin

      We hope before the end of the summer, but we really do have to watch and see if the demand in the RH model is both strong enough and lasting long enough to merit the investment in the tooling dies and production runs. It’s a tough and sad fact that no LH model has ever sold more than 8% of the units that the RH version will – ever. So for a small, specialty engineering company like us, we have to respect that statistic when we evaluate whether we can pull the trigger on a LH design. Thanks so much for your interest and we hope it works out for us to go for this in LH.


  59. One question.
    If they are all the same length,lie angle and head weight,why do they need different offsets?

    • JOE

      To offer as much additional help as possible to help get the lower lofts well up in the air to fly.


  60. Hi,
    Are these available yet? and will i be able to receive a set of these in The United Kingdom?

    • ALI

      We’re gaining on it and hope to have inventory in the UK available through our distributor Diamond Golf International in West Sussex at some point in the early summer so all of the UK clubmakers can have access to the heads for their fitting work.

      Thanks for your interest,

  61. HI

    It may say somewhere in this long list, but do you have plans for a Left-Handed version of the one-length irons?

    • LEE

      Thanks for your interest and yes we hope to be able to add a left hand version to the Sterling offering. Because no left hand model has ever garnered more than 8% of the unit sales of the RH version, we as a small company have to watch the demand and mainly the staying power of the Sterling as we begin it in RH before we can pull the trigger on the dies and inventory.

  62. Tom – I’ve wanted a set of Single Length clubs forever. I’ve been a huge fan of Moe Norman and adhered to his swing for years (with great success); Moe would choke down slightly on his clubs to make them more relative in length. Of course Bryson Dechambeau is my new heroe. Not knowing who he was I saw him at the St.Jude in Memphis last year and could not believe what I was seeing. He hit the ball dead straight and long every time.
    Anyway – I live in Little Rock, Arkansas and was wanting information of your nearest fitter so I can purchase a set of these cool clubs. Know of anyone close to Little Rock to do the job?

    Thanks – Bob Bowen

    • Bob
      Thanks very much for your interest for sure. I really am sorry but there are no certified clubfitters within 140 miles of Little Rock. Closest one is in Branson, MO and that’s a ways to go from LR. Don’t know why there hasn’t been someone in LR as it is a pretty good size city that could support one.

      As such the best we can do is to tell you that we have set up a direct fitting website for the Sterling which we got involved in because we knew that clubmakers are not everywhere. It’s at and you can scroll down the page to the bottom to see the options there.

      Thanks very much and the very best to you in this great game,

  63. I bought a set of single length irons last year(August), I was a pretty solid 5 hcp player shooting under 80 most of my rounds, usually 75-76… It took me approximately 2 months to really learn both my body but mostly my head that I needed to have the same ball position on every club. And in mid October I set a new personal best at my home club, a solid 68. I got down to hcp 3 in the last two competitions I played. Shooting 70 (par 72) and then 69 (par 72). And during those events, four days apart, I made eagle from 150 yards and from 125 yards. Then came the winter here in Sweden… But now with about 5-6 18 hole rounds I shoot 72-73 with a record nine hole of 33 (-3). So the magic continues…. Cannot understand anyone playing regular clubs anymore. Oversize grips, baseball grip with the hands and then just smash the ball. And I don’t understand your talk about loosing length, it’s the opposite when you learn. Have exactly 10 meters between my clubs, from 85 meter on the 59 degree LW to 185 meters with the 3 iron. Then I bought the M1 driver and the spoon to match, changed grips to oversize and shortened them 1,5 cm. I bought the 1 iron clubs in pro. I don’t like the looks of the heads but they perform. But now I will have a serious look into this heads. But I would really like the 4 degree gap I have now, possible? And 3 iron to LW is actually perfect, possible? When it comes to shaft length, all of my shafts is like a 6 iron, possible? And do you have representation in Sweden?

    • Mattias

      WOW, that is some seriously good play and congratulations for your hard work to improve to such a fantastic level in the game !! VERY well done !!

      With a conventional incremental length set of irons, golfers will have a different clubhead speed for each iron. This is because for most golfers, the longer the length, the higher the angular acceleration of the club and the higher the clubhead speed will be at impact. This one of the two ways that each iron hits the ball a different distance. The other, and more important one, is the difference in loft for each iron.

      Serious testing has proven that of the two factors of length and loft, loft is 85% of the distance a golfer hits an iron, length is the other 15%. That means when you create a single length set, for most golfers the single length chosen will generate a slower clubhead speed for the lower loft irons which in the conventional set were longer in length. And it is from this fact that it can be a problem for some golfers to not achieve the same distance with the low loft irons in a single length set that they got from the same loft irons in the conventional set.

      BUt this also depends on what is the single length chosen and how much shorter is it than the low loft irons in the golfer’s previous normal iron set.

      Our representatives in Sweden are Peter Qvarfordt and Hans Agardh – you can reach them through for assistance.

      Thanks very much,

  64. Single length clubs will revolutionize the industry, as a vertically challenged golfer (<29" wrist to floor) I look forward to the revolution!

  65. How did you come to decide on your gaping between clubs? I have searched for findings where someone has used a swinging machine and recorded the distance when the only variable to change was dynamic loft. EI.. if everything else was exactly the same how much is the carry and total distance affected by each degree of loft at a set swing speed.

    • Will

      From a combination of robot hit testing on our robot and golfer hit testing done by golfers of different clubhead speeds and angles of attack. No matter what, it is utterly impossible to choose lofts for any set of irons, single length or conventional, that is going to result in perfect distance gaps for all players. This is because of the effect of different golfer clubhead speeds and very much so, different golfer angles of attack into the ball – with little variations in ball type differences getting involved as well. This too was why I chose to design the bodies of the Sterling iron heads from carbon steel. Not just for proper lie angle fitting but also for tweaking lofts should that need to be done to ensure consistent distance gaps for different golfer swing types.

      When it comes to the carry and total distance per each degree, there most certainly are lots of variables that affect this. But if you can equalize all of the swing related variables as clubhead speed changes and face COR design and head CG design, for a 90mph 5 iron speed a 1* change is around 3.4 yards carry difference. For an 80mph 5 iron speed it is 2.6 yds per degree in carry, for a 70 mph 5 iron speed each degree is around 2 yds in carry difference. Roll out after landing is a total crap shoot depending on turf/ground conditions so you just can’t factor that in.

  66. I’m 86 and have been playing,only since my mid sixties. My swing speed is glacier-like in tempo (driver high seventies, occasionally low eighties). I have gone to ladies shafts, due to my slow speed and it has helped some. i’m obviously a very high handicapper and wonder if I would benefit from your interesting sounding clubs? I use 1 degree upright irons. I am reduced to a Taylor Made Mini Driver, which is not all that bad. 180 yards is a good drive for me.If you think I could benefit, let me know how and when, plus, the name of a fitter, in my area. The Pasadena Clubfitter, in Pasadena , CA is close too me. I have read some of his ads and he seems to agree with your club philosophy.
    Thank You, Frank Griffin

    • FRANK

      Thanks for your interest for sure, and good for you that you are into the game a lot from having started to play when in your mid 60s. There’s a definite rule of thumb for iron set makeup fitting – as clubhead speed decreases, you need to use fewer irons in the set and more high loft woods or hybrids instead. The reason is because irons are tough for golfers with slower clubhead speeds to hit high enough to turn the golfer’s clubhead speed into maximum distance. This is because irons are narrow in shape and style. Woods and hybrids are broader in shape with a much wider sole. That means the Center of Gravity of woods and hybrids is both lower and farther back from the face, both things which help get the ball more up to fly for any given loft.

      With your driver speed at high 70s to low 80s, that probably means your middle iron speed would be in the 60s somewhere. That’s not as low as many who are 10-20 yrs younger than you, believe me. But it is a speed that says you would not want to try to use the 5 or 6 iron in your iron set, so your irons would then consist of a 7 to the wedges. Above that would likely be a 6 hybrid, then possibly a 9 wood and 7 wood above that – none which should be very long in length so you can add more control to swinging those clubs.

      Thus if you have a thought about single length irons, the set would then be advised to be 7, 8, 9, PW, gap wedge – then your sand wedge. That’s still 5 clubs in the irons that all would have the same swing feel to try to improve shot consistency. Whether you should do this boils down to how you hit your current 7 to wedges, consistency wise. if you are reasonably consistent with these irons in your normal length set now, then no, you should not feel compelled to spend any more money for any other irons. But if you do have bouts of shot inconsistency, pulling and pushing these irons, then OK, being properly fit both for the single length 7 to wedges AND getting correctly fit for the hybrid and high loft woods above that could help you get a little more from your game.

      If you need help in finding out if there is a good fitter near you with whom you could work, send us an email to and tell us what town/city you live in. We’ll be glad to check our lists of who’s good who might be in reasonable proximity to where you live.

      Thanks much for your interest,

    • FRANK
      Real quick in a follow up message because I AM SORRY I DID NOT READ THAT YOU ARE NEAR BOB WILLIAMS – The Pasadena Clubfitter. Ooops on me!! But yes, I know Bob over years and years of clubfitting seminars I have taught, as well as the ongoing email correspondence he and I have talking about all sorts of topics of fitting and club technology. he is good and would do a very, very good job in your fitting analysis. Sorry I overlooked that before.


  67. Tom,

    Since the highest lofted club is 55, what do we do about a lob wedge? Do we increase its length to match even though its 20 grams heavier or add just a 1/2 inch? I know other brands offer them. I am just curious why this was left out? Also which of your lob wedges would be most compatible to this set? Many thanks and hope they are selling well.

    • Stephen:
      I’m sorry but we just did not see enough of a demand for the LW to design, tool and manufacture one. There is a “numbers side” to clubhead design that any person in my business can’t ignore, much as I hate to say. Over the years of designing head models, it’s pretty much a guarantee that the percentage of lob wedges bought in a set of wedge heads is not even a third that of the sand wedge. That percentage has rung true in my analysis of my work for over 20 yrs. It’s like the statistic that says no left hand model will sell more than 8% of the units that the right hand model will sell – year after year after year, these statistics are uncanny in their consistency.

      We also knew from our research into single length irons that some 30% of all single length sets are ordered without a sand wedge, let alone a lob wedge. Many people, many clubmakers have the feeling that the sand wedge and lob wedge should still be a standalone wedge of its own usual specs rather than to be of the same exact specs as all other irons in a single length construction. And in fact when we look at the pre book orders so far for our Sterling single length heads from the clubmakers, there are about 25-30% of the sets NOT being ordered with a SW head.

      In fact, I almost did not even design a SW for the set because I went into the project with the mindset that the SW and LW were such “personal” clubs for a golfer that we’d let the single length concept do its thing for the numbered irons + PW and GW – the more full swing clubs in the bag. But it was my “partner” in this project who insisted he wanted a SW to sell with the sets he would be offering through his business. So it was actually at the last minute late last summer that I designed the SW for this set to add on to it.

      I can also add that when we finished all of our testing work on the Sterling irons last fall, before winter I put a set into my bag and played with them until the snow flew. I of course had been part of the hit testing all through development, but I wanted some final “alone time” with the irons using my 50 yrs as a player to make some final assessments before I sent the check off OK to the factory.

      One thing I noticed was that for the way that I use a sand wedge, which is for a LOT of less than full swing shots of all types, I ended up putting my own old sand wedge at its 35.5″ length and D5 swingweight back into the bag and dropped the single length SW. reason was, and I am sure this is going to be true with some other players, is that I was so used to this weighting and feel for all these different little shots of less than full swing that I just did not want to take the time to get used to a SW of 36.5″ at D1 swingweight at a total weight some 30g lighter than my old SW.

      But for the full swing clubs of 5 to gap wedge, I was very happy with all the informal playing testing I did in the very end of the project on course. It is what it is, a form of custom fitting in which it won’t be the same for every player.

      So if you are interested in single length and you have been a regular lob wedge player, I would keep the lob wedge you have that you are used to from lots of time in use and practice. You might try the single length SW just to see, if you are curious. But if your SW now is an old favorite that you are very used to, then I would recommend you do the single length as 5 to gap wedge and keep your current SW and LW.
      Hope this helps,

  68. hi tom,how do I order a demo set? are these these available yet andhow? through yo or one of your clubfitters?thank you mike

    • As with every one of our custom clubhead design models, the clubs are available only through independent custom clubmakers who we certify to work with our models. Contact the clubmaker in your area to ask if he has Sterling single length demos on order for you to try – and ask him when he feels he will have them. We have a tremendous backlog on the heads right now that we are working hard to catch up with. But we’ll get there. If you need help in finding a clubmaker to work with, email us at and tell us where you live and we’ll be glad to check and respond. thanks very much for your interest,

  69. Tom I own a set of single length clubs from one of your competitors.I would like to try your clubs.I live in upper Michigan where is your closest club fitter to my zipcode 49837.Also what is the longest length shaft you make that conforms to the usga rules of golf.I have a particular natural swing that fits me well (the longer the iron the better for me.Thanks Troy L. Carlson.

    • TROY
      Thanks very much for your interest. This is always a big OUCH for us when we see that you are at least 100 miles from the closest clubfitter. That’s a long way to go and I understand that can take the wind out of the sails of wanting to be custom fit. Two options I can offer to try to help. If you are into a 2 hr drive both ways, I would recommend you contact Phil Beaver at StrokeSavers Golf in Neenah, WI – he’s good, I know him personally and he would do a very good job for you. You can contact him at 920-209-5783 or email at to talk about your fitting needs and goals and to get something set up that can work for you. If you can’t do the drive, then send me an email at and ask me about our program called YOUR FIT which we created to help fit golfers who are not convenient to a clubfitter.

      Thanks much,

  70. Hi Tom,
    How would you marry a traditional set of woods and hybrids w/ a set of single length irons? For example, how would I marry my 4 hybrid (Callaway X Hot Pro – 23° loft, 39.75″, 58° lie, D2 s/w), which i need to cut down anyway as it’s too long, to the 5 iron of the single length set?

    • JAN
      When you get a single length set and you are happy with the performance, you take note of the distance you hit the lowest loft single length iron when you hit a good shot. You then add 12 to 15 yards to that distance and you now look to see what of the hybrids or fairway woods in your set hit the ball that distance. That becomes the next club above your lowest loft single length iron. Then you look to see what club hits the ball 15 yards or so longer than that club and that becomes the next club in the set. You do NOT mess around with trying to get the lengths of your hybrids or fairway woods to coordinate with the single length irons.

  71. Hi Tom, I’m interested in knowing why the set only goes to a 5 iron? Also if I wanted to add a lob wedge to this set, what Wishon head would you recommend? Thanks in advance.


    • JOHN

      Sure thing happy to help. Several reasons really. When you go with a single length assembly, for all the irons for which the length of the single length is shorter than what the clubs used to be in the conventional set, for those irons you lose some clubhead speed, which means you lose ball speed and spin because your clubhead speed could be lower with the shorter single length low loft irons than it was in the conventional length set. That loss of ball speed and spin also means the height of the shot could be lower than what the golfer would have been used to in his conventional length iron set when he would hit the low loft irons perfectly on center.

      With the Sterling single length set, we chose an 8 iron length for the set with the option for a 7 iron length if the golfer was more comfortable with that over the 8 iron length. This is a single length that is shorter than the typical 6 iron length that other previous single length sets would pursue. The reason we did this is because, 1) with an 8 iron length, most every golfer is going to hit the low loft irons more on center more often than if they tried to do this with a 6 iron length. hitting the low loft irons more on center is a real benefit. 2) With an 8 iron length, there is less tendency for the golfer to hit his high loft irons and wedges too far – with a 6 iron length there is a real tendency to hit the high loft irons and wedges too far.

      But with an 8 iron length, because there is more chance the golfer might not hit the low loft irons as far as his old set, this is why we designed the 5, 6, 7 irons with our proprietary 0.830 COR thin face design coupled with a little lower loft. The high COR face brings back some of the lost ball speed and spin to get the ball more up in the air and achieve decent distance, more like what the golfer is used to. And with the 8 iron length the golfer has more on center hits which also helps improve performance of hitting the low loft irons vs how he did that in his conventional set.

      But there is a point of no return here in terms of the 8 iron length vs the loft for the height and distance of the shot. In our testing and development we found that only the higher swing speed players, those with a normal length 5 iron clubhead speed of >85mph would be able to generate the clubhead speed at an 8 iron length to be able to effectively hit a 4 iron of the loft we would have to make it in this set. At the same time, we also know from years of fitting with conventional iron sets, that since the golf industry has gone to lower and lower lofts on all iron sets, to the point where the average 5 iron loft is 25-26* these days, that means the vast majority of golfers can’t hit a 3 or 4 or even a 5 iron in their conventional iron sets anymore. Not well enough to merit keeping the 3, 4, or 5 iron in their bag. And that’s why the majority of golfers use hybrids or high loft woods and don’t carry a 3 or 4 iron, and some don’t carry a 5 iron and have a fwy wood or hybrid to replace that club too.

      So with all of that in mind, that’s why there is no 4 iron in the Sterling set. And why the golfers then should just be choosing conventional hybrids or high loft woods for the clubs above the 5 iron or above the 6 iron in the Sterling set – no different than how they look at normal length iron sets where they should be using hybrids or high loft woods instead of a 3, 4 and sometimes even 5 iron.

      Hope this helps,

  72. Will these single length clubs be available in left hand?

    • JOEY
      I’ll be frank about this – we have to watch and see if the right hand model has the proper “staying power” before we can make the decision to tool up the design and go into production for an inventory in left hand. Single length is a VERY different and very radical, even somewhat controversial topic in iron design. Many golfers are skeptical. So we’ll need to see that the right hand version is making golfers happy which then says it will stick around for a while. Next, we have to see that the volume of the demand is there. Never has a left hand model sold more than 8% of the units it will in right hand. But the tooling die costs and inventory production costs are the same for left and right hand. So we have to see through this spring and summer if the sales volume in right hand is enough to justify the cost of development for left hand.

      I’m sorry but that’s the way it is for a small company such as ours. Many times I have wished that clubheads evolved like bats and rackets where the same model could work for both RH and LH !!


  73. Will your clubs be available in the UK at any time, would love to try that theory out for myself.

    • BRAD
      Yes, our long time distributor, Diamond Golf International in West Sussex, will stock the Sterling single length heads for distribution to clubmakers in the UK. As to when, I am sorry but there are a couple of logistical matters to be worked out on this so the hope is by May or early June the heads will be available to the clubmakers in the UK. Thanks much for your interest,

  74. Excellent article and once again, clearly written so that even I can understand it.

    I have been making my own clubs for many years, based upon your original publications at GolfSmith and now at your own company. Your products always perform admirably when constructed according to your writings.

    I look forward to trying this concept when heads are more readily available.

    • Thank you Del for your interest !!

  75. Tom:

    Since average to below-average players have more difficulty as the iron loft decreases, could a player use the Equal-length irons just for the 5 and 6 irons, while keeping their traditional short irons?

    • BILL:
      You can do that if you wish. But do realize that if you do this to split different groups of lengths in the iron set, you destroy the main concept for why single length has a possibility to offer a little better performance. Single length has its chance to improve shot consistency from making the swing feel of each iron to be PRECISELY IDENTICAL with NO deviation in that. When you make all irons the same length with the same shaft, you then have the length the same, the shaft weight the same, the flex the same, the total weight the same, the swingweight the same, the balance point the same, and the MOI of each iron to be the same. That’s every possible element that has anything to do with the swing feel of the irons which ends up identical. And from that comes the chance for better swing consistency, better swing repeatability and better shot consistency.

      The other benefit of course is as you know, the shorter length of the single length affords a higher percentage of on center hits with the loft loft irons. But this matter of identical swing feel is important for shot consistency. If you use different groups of lengths, you do not have identical swing feel among all the irons. but you could tweak it and I am sure you could get close enough. So if this works better for you from a comfort standpoint, then by all means.


  76. Tom thanks for pursuing the single club length concept. After Bryson Dechamblea won big as an amateur, I began getting questions from friends. I was going to build a set by using standard (variable) weighted heads which would pose significant issues. However, your offering will make this an easier possibility. Any chance of getting Bryson to be a standard bearer of your clubs?

    • ART

      Not a chance in Heck could that happen. Once Bryson turns pro, likely after this summer’s Open Championship, the bidding among the big companies is likely to be fierce. His notoriety and awareness as an amateur among golfers is perhaps stronger than what Tiger’s was back when he left Stanford to turn pro. So the betting in the industry is that Bryson’s rookie endorsement contract would be north of $2 million a year with bonuses for performance on top of that. We can’t even begin to compete in that level of marketing.


  77. Tom, what is your opinion on promoting the Sterling Single Length irons to juniors? What should be the points to consider in this case? What would be the minimum body heigth (or wrist to floor measurement)?

    • MARCEL:

      I do not like the single length concept for juniors for several reasons. The biggest reason is because they have a much slower swing speed. That means it will be more difficult for them to hit the lower loft irons high enough in the air to get them to fly as far as possible for their speed. yes, it could be possible to do the single length set for the junior to only be from the #7 to wedges. And then to fit “normal length” clubs for the hybrids or fwy woods above that point. But I do not think the slower speed junior can benefit all that much from doing that.

      Then you get into the other problem which is where do you find the iron heads with the right lie and right head weight for the junior to enable the set to be made to be single length. As you know, when I designed our junior heads, the Future Pro model, I did choose a lighter head weight compared to adult clubhead weights. if you want to do single length for a junior, you would have to make all the irons have the same lie and same head weight, and that head weight would need to be lighter than normal adult single length irn heads.

      Thus I would fit all juniors using the right length for their size, but then to do it with the normal length changes from club to club. Then much later when they grow up and get a higher, more normal clubhead speed, then it becomes more possible to consider a single length set.

  78. when these Clubs come, can you tell me? and how much is the set 3-full wedges? thank you.

    • Please go to . Register on the site with your email and when they are ready you will be notified.

      Thanks very much for your interest,

  79. Hi Tom,

    I am a former golf professional and accomplished amateur, but I am now wheelchair bound by Progressive MS. With the help of a SoloRider cart I am heading back out on the course after 6 years of no-golf frustration. I have worked with single length once upon a time with Eagle Golf (?). The concept made sense to me then but now I think it makes even more sense. The cart puts me in a consistent secure (belted) position. My legs do nearly nothing except hold me up in a standinding position. I think single length will make my game physically easier since it the same constrained swing every time. This could be what the handicap golfer has been looking for. A real niche for you too. I am interested in your comments. — Greg

    • GREG:
      First off, my sincere apology for the delay in responding. The notification feature for posts and comments was not working so we haven’t seen the posts being made here for us to respond. That’s a big Ooops. Sorry about that. We can help you. I have a lot of experience custom fitting and custom building clubs for Dennis Walters. You may know of Dennis from his trick shot show he has done all over the place for many years. He was a budding golf professional player when he was young but was paralyzed from the waist down in a tragic accident many years ago. He responded by putting together a very entertaining show that demonstrates his great ball striking prowess, also while strapped into a special seat on the back side of his golf cart.

      The biggest area we have been able to help Dennis with that I know we can do for you as well is in the lie angles of the clubheads. Dennis just could not find anything flat enough to fit him at the normal lengths that he wanted to play and he did not want to play shorter length clubs just to be able to have clubs with which to play the game for his own enjoyment and competition because he wanted and needs the distance that the longer lengths can provide from their higher clubhead speed potential.

      I think if I remember right off the top of my head we were able to get his driver lie down to 53*, same for the fwys and hybrids so the club sat as it should at the normal lengths he wanted to play. This we can do because some years ago I figured out what alloys to use to make the hosels on our driver, fairway wood and hybrid models that could be ductile enough to bend a lot for lie (and face angle) fitting needs while not being so soft it would move in play.

      Now that we have the Single Length irons coming out soon, this is an option for sure if you are interested. The heads are made from carbon steel so we would be able to bend them substantially if you can identify what lie angle you would need. But as well if you were thinking of the single length irons just because of accommodating your seated playing position and would prefer a conventional incremental length set, we can do that as well because we have a number of other iron models easily bendable to get the lies flat enough for your playing needs.

      Your choice, but we can help you for sure get into sticks that really can fit you much better than anything else you have had. let’s communicate more about this so I can help you as much as possible. My personal email is and use it whenever you want to talk about this.


  80. I should have mentioned in my earlier email that this would be for the senior men or women golfers who have already ventured down the hybrid route adding more hybrids along the way (possibly a full hybrid set with varying length) and in some cases a single length full hybrid set available from some custom club makers.

    But no one that I know of makes a full set single length set that has the same swing weight across their full set if same length.

    In other words, full hybrid set varying length consistent swing weights across set or same length full set with different swing weights due to different head weights.

    No best of both worlds available in full hybrid sets as of yet.

    Thanks again.


    • JON
      First off, my sincere apology for the delay in responding. The notification feature for posts and comments was not working so we haven’t seen the posts being made here for us to respond. That’s a big Ooops. Sorry about that. That’s an interesting idea about a full set of single length hybrids all the way down to a wedge. Years ago we did a full hybrid set from #2 to PW but for conventional head weights and conventional incremental length assembly. Maybe if the single length concept catches on enough to develop other head models for different golfer types, this could be an interesting option to think about.


  81. I ran made up set of single lengths last season and loved the concept. But with trying to put the set together that was not designed for it it has some inconsistency. I look forward to building a set of these. I also ran 3,5,7 woods at 42in. Might not have had as much distance but I like the consistency. I play some shorter courses and will trade the distance for consistency and accuracy. All about the club management. while I like distance I feel most golfers get to hung up on who hits farther.

  82. Hi Tom

    Any Chance of me trying this out in the UK? Ha ha

    Would love to be one of the testers trying these irons out.

    How would i get fit for these in the UK?



    • Scott
      First off, my sincere apology for the big delay in responding. The notification feature for posts and comments was not working so we haven’t seen the posts being made here for us to respond. That’s a big Ooops. Sorry about that.

      The Sterling irons will get to the UK. We do have some little logistical things to clear up before that happens, but it will happen by summer. You can find a clubfitter to work with for the Sterling irons in two ways – 1) you can go to our website at and in the middle of the home page, click on the FIND A CLUBFITTER search tool. Put in your town and country and see if a certified fitter comes up. We do have quite a few in England so you may find one there. Scotland and Ireland, not so much. 2) you can call Diamond Golf International, our stocking distributor in the UK. You can tell them where you live and they can search to see if they can give you the info for a good fitter close to you – Diamond are at 01903 726 999.

      Thanks much

  83. Tom, I have always wondered whether this would be a good fit for me. I hit a 7 and 8 iron well, so having all my irons be of the same length, lie angle, etc. is very appealing to me. I think your design solves many of the problems of past single length clubs; head weight, lie angles, etc.

    I am very much looking forward to trying these. Do you have any club makers in the Chicago area? Thanks

    • SCOTT
      First of all, please accept my apology for the long delay in responding to your question and post, The auto notification feature of the blog that is supposed to tell me/us that posts are waiting for response was “broken” or messed up such that none of us knew that posts were here and waiting. VERY sorry for the Oops on that.

      I would recommend that you could contact either one of these two men to help you in your area:

      Neal Carlson

      Kadin Mahmet

      Thanks very much and very sorry about the delay in the response,

  84. Hello tom, just talked to Paul coon in Redmond Oregon to start the process to get the sterling SL clubs. I’m so very excited because I’mBLIND. I BELIEVE THSES CLUBS CAN IMPROVE MY GAME. MY PARTNER BELIEVES SO too, since I have one ball position and one swing

    My best scor at centennial golf course in Medford Oregon is a 99. I will keep you posted.

    It hard only being able to see the ball at address but I think this is my key fir a big improvement

    Keep you posted

    • Britton
      First of all, please accept my apology for the long delay in responding to your question and post, The auto notification feature of the blog that is supposed to tell me/us that posts are waiting for response was “broken” or messed up such that none of us knew that posts were here and waiting. VERY sorry for the Oops on that.

      Wow, how great would that be to know that the new single length irons could possibly help you play a little better and keep enjoying this great game a little more than before ! I have always, always felt good about my work in custom fitting when a good clubmaker is able to help people get a little more help in being able to play a little better. If you do this, please do keep us posted about how it goes for you !

      Thanks much for your interest and the VERY best to you in this great game,

  85. Tom first let me thank you for 7 years ago introducing me to what is now a very close friend in Bob Dodds, hall of fame club maker! We’ve grown very close and he manages my clubs like I am a tour guy! He’s the best I’ve ever worked with. He’ told me about these new irons, knowing I am an equipment junkie, and thought we should consider a set. One quick question. In testing the long irons how much of a difference in distance loss have you seen, if any? I know in reading your site you said shaft length was 20-25% ( or close to that) of distance in a longer iron. You state the new COR heads make up the difference. How much? How close? I once took a 5 wood shaft and put it in a driver. It was amazing how often me and my buddies actually hit it longer! So I am assuming you can swing faster (not harder) with shorter club, with more confidence. Curious. Thank you.

    • KEVIN
      First of all, please accept my apology for the long delay in responding to your question and post, The auto notification feature of the blog that is supposed to tell me/us that posts are waiting for response was “broken” or messed up such that none of us knew that posts were here and waiting. VERY sorry for the Oops on that.

      For sure, with Bob you have not just one of the best, but one of the few contenders out there for THE best. Plus he’s a heckuva nice guy. I’m sorry he’s “retired” because I so enjoyed my interaction with him when he was Tech Director for the Professional Clubmakers’ Society. But I do hear from him once in a while and it’s always good to talk to him.

      Possible distance loss (and shot height loss) in the low loft irons in a single length depends on a few things. 1) First and foremost, golfer clubhead speed. Lower speed always means less chance of getting a low loft up high enough to fly and stay in the air to carry because low lofts require more ball speed and spin to do that. But that’s true with conventional length irons too. Whether it is a problem in a single length set depends on point #2.

      2) What is the single length and how short is it compared to the length of the low loft irons in the golfer’s conventional set. It’s a fact that the shorter the length of a club, the lower the clubhead speed will be compared to the longer lengths. But not all golfers have the same clubhead speed drop as length gets shorter. As you know, we’re working with either a 7 or 8 iron length in the Sterling single length set. So when we were doing testing, we were watching how much of a speed drop did golfers have from their normal 5 iron to the 7 or 8 iron length. For some it was 2-3mph, for others it was 6-7mph. The earlier the release the less the clubhead speed drop with a shorter length, the later the release the more the clubhead speed drop with a shorter length. Big clubhead speed drops could indicate more chance of a problem with low loft single length irons to hit them as far or as high. But then too, a lot of players with a late release tend to have higher clubhead speeds than players with an early to midway release. So here again we are back to this matter of “what’s the clubhead speed – is it high enough to get enough ball speed and spin to get the ball up to fly with the low loft irons?”

      3) Here’s a HUGE one – what is the head design, what is the face design, what are the lofts of the low loft head designs in the single length set. If the single length low loft irons are conventional inv cast stainless cavity backs with more conventional lofts and low COR face design, then the golfer is going to have to have a pretty high clubhead speed to prevent losing distance with these low loft irons in the single length set. But if the low loft heads are designed with a high COR face, low CG and a little lower loft, then it’s possible there might not be any distance loss.

      Because there are variables in this, and because most of them have to do with the golfer’s swing speed and swing characteristics, this is precisely why any golfer interested in a single length set should take a little time to test hit some of the single length irons in the set he is looking at before he pulls out the wallet to buy. This is also why I chose in the end to make the set be #5 to SW and not with a 4 or 3.

      Once I knew I wanted to go with a 7 or 8 iron length, I knew that we were facing a challenge with the low loft irons. And that’s why I did the 5, 6, 7 with a high COR face design which can make up for the drop in clubhead speed by offering a higher smash factor to get the ball speed up for the clubhead speed. but even with this design, for golfers who are slower and slower with their speed, they should not use the #5 iron, some even should not use the #6. And they should be then using more normal length hybrids or high loft woods above that 6 or 7 iron.

      But this is no different than set makeup fitting for a conventional set of irons of incremental lengths. For every golfer there is an iron loft that no matter what, they should not be using in their irons because it is too low for their speed or their ball striking ability. When we teach set makup fitting, we teach the fitter to look for, find out what is the golfer’s lowest loft iron he can hit with reasonable consistency. Once found it is hybrids or woods above that point. And this is why more and more golfers are starting their conventional irons with a 6 iron, some even with a 7 iron, because they can’t hit IRONS of the #3, 4, 5 and sometimes even 6 as well as they should to even own them.

      It’s no different for single length set makeup fitting. If the golfer can’t hit the single length 5 high enough up in the air to get proper distance, then don’t use it. Find out what his distance is with the single length #6, add 10-15 yds to that, and look for the hybrid or high loft wood that hits the ball that far for him. That becomes the first club above the single length iron set. Then for the next club you add 10-15 yds to that last club and do it all over again.

      Just because the set is a single length that does NOT mean every golfer should be using every iron that is offered in the single length set. the set makeup fitting has to be done the same way you do it with any other iron set – find the lowest loft iron the golfer can hit well, and do hybrids or woods above that point.

      Hope this helps,

  86. Very clever idea. Before I drive to see a fitter, do you think these might be a good idea for me. I am 61 years old, have been playing golf for 45 years. Handicap has ranged from 3-10, currently 10. Driver speed I 90 mph. I did play with a single plane swing (with Natural Golf clubs) for 2 years, handicap did not change– 6. It was a very fun experiment and I am not afraid of breaking convention, as my buddies will attest.

    Does your higher COR on the longer irons totally make up for loss of club head speed, or should I expect to lose some distance with those clubs? My 7 iron travels 148-153 if that is any help. I am pretty good at hitting the sweet spot. I also carry 4 wedges, understanding scoring distances/control.

    Thanks in advance for your advice Tom.

    • JEFF:
      First of all, please accept my apology for the long delay in responding to your question and post, The auto notification feature of the blog that is supposed to tell me/us that posts are waiting for response was “broken” or messed up such that none of us knew that posts were here and waiting. VERY sorry for the Oops on that.

      First of all, please understand that you do NOT have to play with a single plane swing technique to use or benefit from single length irons. And if you use a single length set, you do NOT need to use a single length swing with such a set. TONS of people who use single plane swing technique play with incremental length irons. And 99.9% of the people who have played or play with single length sets do not use a single plane swing technique.

      Single length can work with any swing technique because all it does is, 1) makes every iron have the same exact swing feel – that works fine with any swing technique; 2) it makes it easier to hit the low loft irons on center more often – again that is something that has nothing to do with what swing technique a player has.

      Testing showed us that the majority of golfers did achieve the same distance with the lower loft irons in the Sterling as they did with the same number irons in their conventional length set. Only those with much slower swing speeds, such as a player who would hit his 7 iron around 130-135 would not get up to max distance with the 5 iron. And as clubhead speed increased for the golfer there was a tendency to hit the ball longer with the Sterling irons.

      I have no idea what loft your 7 iron has with which you hit the ball 148-153 – lofts are all over the place in iron sets these days so there is no standard. But assuming it is about an average 7 iron loft of say, 33-34*, you’d hit the Sterling 5 iron the same distance you hit your current 5 iron,and then you would very gradually see the Sterling hit the ball a little longer than your current irons from the 6 to gap wedge.

      Hope this helps,

  87. Hi Tom,
    I’ve been so happy with my club fitter, Greg Courtnay, getting me into one of your drivers last year that I will be seeing him about fitting me for your irons. Very interested in your new SL’s. I may have missed this, but will they be coming out with left handed being available? Thanks, Paul

  88. Hi Tom,
    Once again you are ahead of the rest of the golf industry in designs. Will Wishon offer the shafts for a single set pre-cut and ready to assemble?

    • RICK:
      We certainly can pre trim any shafts ordered to go with any specific head models, if requested. But really, the shafts for the single length set are all trimmed as per an 8 iron trim if you choose the 8 iron length – or trimmed all as a 7 iron shaft for every club if you choose the 7 iron length for the single length. So we can do this but it’s so simple to do this yourself – there is nothing different or special about the shaft trim just because this is a single length design. It’s like you are making a set of all 8 irons or all 7 irons, but the difference is the lofts on the heads are all different. That’s all.

  89. Hi Tom, I am very interested in the same length clubs because I used to be a pretty good golfer in my early teens and 20’s and 30’s but after 2 back surgeries my game has went all to pieces. I have a problem hitting 8 Iron through SW but 7 through 4 I can hit the ball pretty consistent . I am 45 now and still have a pretty good club head speed, my driver speed is 104 to 108 and maybe if my clubs were the same length it would help me. what are your thoughts ? and where could I go to be fit for these same length clubs? I live in Cherokee, NC.

    • Thanks very much for your interest, Anthony! The main benefits of a single length concept are to 1) offer an improvement in overall swing repeatability and shot consistency because all the irons are exactly the same for every element that contributes to the swing feel of a golf club – same length, shaft weight, total weight, swingweight, balance point, flex; 2) offer a higher number of on center solid shots with the lower loft irons in the set because these now would be shorter in length than what they are in the golfer’s current incremental length set. Longer length coupled with lower loft makes a club more difficult to hit on center consistently. Shorten that length down to what we’re doing as the single length in the set and you improve the chance to hit more shots on center with the lower loft irons.

      I’m sorry we do not have someone right in your immediate area, but if you can deal with driving around 60 miles to Oak Ridge, TN, there you would be able to meet and work with Tony Wright of Game Improvement Golf. I have known Tony personally for many years from clubfitting seminars that I have taught over the years and at which he has always been an apt student/attendee in his own commitment to keep learning more and more about fitting and equipment performance to help golfers. I really would recommend you consider making the drive to see him. His phone # is 865-384-3753, email is and you can check him out on his website at

      Hope this helps and thanks very much again for your interest,

  90. Really looking forward to giving these a try! I have always considered my 8 iron to be the club that gives me the most confidence and am really excited to see how that confidence could be translated through the rest of my iron set. I am planning to contact Indian Hills Golf in Okemos, MI to make sure this is something they will be offering once available. I’ve worked with Sam Anderson and J.C. Peterson for simple lie adjustments and re-gripping through the years and understand they specialize in custom club builds with your brand.

    • Thanks so much for your interest Tyler ! We too are anxious for the season to get here !!


  91. Tom:

    Ordered my Demo Set today. Looking forward to fitting customers to help improve their enjoyment of the great game of Golf.

  92. Congratulations Tom on another Wishon FIRST. The clubmaking industry must keep up with the younger generation. Tom, looking forward to perhaps working with you on refining my single length hybrid sets.

    • RICK

      Thanks so much for your kind words, but I have to set the record straight and say that we did not invent single length irons at all – that credit goes to a Canadian by the name of Eric Cook, way back in 1986 when he did this for his company, IsoVibe Canada. And others have done this since then. I guess what we’re doing that is a little more of a first is this concept of using high COR face heads for the low loft heads so that the shorter 36.5″ length won;t lose distance for these clubs compared to what the golfer was used to for these low loft irons in his conventional length set.

      Thanks so much and we look forward to continuing to have the chance to serve your clubmaking and clubfitting needs in 2016 !!

  93. Again, can’t wait to try these myself! As a professional, it will definitely be breaking the traditional makeup of my bag since I’m going from CB blades. I hope that at some point, you’ll offer other (lower lofted) hybrids in the SL technology as well. I can see this being BIG for the vast majority of the people I fit. I’ve done videos on the negatives of other SL clubs and will do one of yours after they come out because you have solved the issues that surrounded SL clubs in the past.

    I know that you are suggesting that we use S2S shafts. Is there something other than the obvious reason for fitters to consider or would using proper ACCRA shafts, for example, be suitable as well.

    Certainly don’t want to wish my days away but I’m looking forward to February flying by and March to arrive. Pre-order going in on Monday. Thanks!

    • DOC:
      If the SL concept begins to take off and gather some following, then it could be possible to think about designing other versions of the head model so as to perhaps appeal more to different golfer segments such as the traditionalist, forging aficianado player. But we’ll have to see. This is a very radical departure from the norm and golf has always been a very traditional game and market that has tended to sometimes draw the line about going too far outside the envelope. The concept can use any iron shaft that fits the player well, it is not married in anyway to anyone brand or model of shaft. Although if I do say so, my shafts are as good or better than anyone’s, and offered for a very good price, and with every type of design to fit the widest range of players from 55g to 115g in graphite as well as 100g and 115g steel models too.


  94. EXCITING. Can’t wait till they are available. Will Jim Battin in Powell, Ohio become a fitter for you? Keep me posted as I look forward to starting the 2016 season with them.

    • RICK:
      Thanks very much for your interest. We have no record of a Jim Battin in our data base of clubmakers. He does not have an account with us and we find no reference to him having come to us to ask about opening an account. So I do not know him. Doesn’t mean he isn’t good as there are some clubmakers who just have chosen not to contact us or work with us for whatever reason. But I will say if you can deal with a 70 mile drive to Waverly, Ohio, there you could work with a clubmaker named Jim McCleery. I’ve personally known Jim for at least 25 yrs in this side of the industry from numerous technical schools and seminars I have taught, at which he has been in attendance. We stay in contact and still have tech discussions about topics as well. I would put Jim in the top 10 of clubfitters in the whole country. So if the 70 miles is not a hardship, I’d recommend you see Jim for ANY equipment needs you have, single length iron set or driver, woods, hybrids – everything. he’s really good, and if the industry had 500 like Jim, custom clubmaking would rule the golf world. His contact # is 740-941-4653.

      Thanks VERY much for your interest.


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