Tip Soft Shaft: What Does it Mean for Your Swing?

Posted by on Jul 17, 2013 in Shaft Fitting | 46 comments

What is meant by a “tip soft” shaft?  A shaft can be designed with any variation in its stiffness over its whole length.  So a tip soft shaft is one that is designed to be more flexible in the tip area of the shaft.  Likewise there can be any number of variations in how stiff the tip section of a shaft is designed.  The reason this is done is to help golfers with different swing characteristics find the right shaft that matches best to how they swing.

Most typically, golfers who unhinge the wrist cock early in the downswing are better fit with tip soft shafts, while golfers who hold that wrist cock until very late in the downswing are better fit with a tip stiff or tip firm shaft.  Those who unhinge the wrist cock somewhere in between early and late then are typically better fit to shafts that are more what is called a tip medium design.

But these terms “tip soft/tip firm/tip medium” are completely generic in their description and in no way tell you HOW TIP SOFT or HOW TIP FIRM is the shaft exactly.  That’s why we created this Bend Profile Software so that clubmakers can see exactly how much stiffer one shaft is than another, and where on the shaft from butt to center to tip is the shaft more or less stiff.

Let me explain using a graph and data from our Bend Profile Software data base.  In this software we store the FULL LENGTH STIFFNESS measurements of over 2,600 different shaft models and flexes so that clubmakers can empirically compare the stiffness design of one shaft to another to help them make better shaft fitting recommendations for the golfers they fit.

CLICK to Enlarge.

Shaft Profiling
These are two different shafts which are designed to be virtually the same exact stiffness from the butt to the center of the shaft, but then different in stiffness for their tip section. In the graph and data box, the 41 to 11 columns tell you WHERE the stiffness measurements were made on each shaft, in inches up from the tip end. So the 41/36 measurements are considered the BUTT end of the shaft, the 31/26 measurements the CENTER section of the shaft and the 21/16/11 considered the TIP Section of the shaft. In the measurements, the higher the number, the stiffer the shaft is at that point.

So from this you can see that the Gold Tour R shaft is more tip stiff than is the Gold Plus High R because the 21/16/11 measurements of the tip section of the Gold Tour are higher and thus more stiff than the same location measurements of the Gold Plus High shaft.

The best way to be sure you are properly fit for the right shafts that match all your swing characteristics is to find a GOOD Clubmaker/clubfitter in your area and have them use their knowledge and experience to custom fit you.



  1. Thanks for all your articles and info Tom, I have learned so much from your articles. This article aligns with what I have been experiencing when looking for new irons. I fight a early release and a high ball flight and have always been told to play DG s300,KBS C taper, etc to keep the ball flight down. But no matter what iron shaft you put in my hands I hit it high, not ballooning just higher than normal. I have found with the “tip soft” shafts my dispersion seems to be better, which I guess from reading you comments is correct with my early release.

    • James

      No change in equipment with regard to the shaft will ever bring the ball down enough for you to see a distinct visible change. The early release is causing the clubhead to pass the shaft and hands coming into impact which adds loft at the moment of impact. The people who have been advising stiffer shafts or stiffer tip shafts simply do not know what they are talking about because they do not know how to look at the golf swing to evaluate this situation. Not until you work on your release to stop the clubhead from passing in front of the hands at impact will anything change with regard to your shot height. I am sorry to tell you this but it is the truth and I have seen this countless times in my research in fitting so I know it very well. Best wishes to you if you make the commitment to really work on this.


  2. I have a question of how to lower the torque in a shaft to a lower number. I was told that half an inch of cutting the tip relates to a certain lowering of the number of torque. Is this true or false?
    I bought a prgr egg bird driver 2013 with a swingweight of C3.5. Hitting this driver with a shaft length of 47 gave me trouble in fading the ball about 15 yrds. I replaced the shaft with one that has a torque of 4.8/5.1. The fading disappeared. I would like to hold on to the egg bird/fujikura shaft that the driver came with and cutting the tip of the original shaft so I land up with a torque of about 4.8. The problem is that I don’t know the number of torque of the original shaft. Q; is there a correlation between cutting the tip with an inch or half this amount and the lowering of torque with a certain amount/number? Thank you.

    • GERARD

      Please understand when you change shafts in a club and you experience a good result, it is a lot of very careful work to try to determine what caused the change in the performance of the club. For example – in the club with the new shaft, was the length the same as before? Was the swingweight the same as before? Was the shaft weight the same as before? Was the entire, full length stiffness the same or different and if it was different, HOW was it different compared to the full length stiffness of the previous shaft? What was the torque of the previous shaft?

      You cannot simply assume that it was the torque of the new shaft that caused the improvement in the performance of the driver. All of these other things I mentioned in questions can have a significant effect on the performance of the club. If you cut the tip of the old shaft, you will lower the torque but you will also increase the overall stiffness and the tip stiffness at the same time. It is not possible for anyone to predict with any accuracy how much the torque or the stiffness will change when you cut the tip by any specific amount. This is because shafts can be so different from each other in their full length stiffness design, in their diameter progression from butt to tip and in their wall thickness progression from butt to tip. They can also be quite different in terms of what raw materials were used to make the shafts.

      The only way to know for sure is to have both of these shafts and to conduct measurements of everything – weight, full length bend profile stiffness measurements, and torque. I am sorry I cannot help more specifically but there are many variables that have to all be analyzed carefully before an accurate answer can be determined.


  3. Hi Tom,

    If I understand you correctly at a 7 or 8 iron length the kick point
    in the shaft and it’s effect on shot height is not significant?
    So a senior shaft with a low kick point and a stiff shaft with a high kick point would yield very little difference?

    If that is the case is it better to err on the less stiff lower kick point shaft for most golfers?

    Thank you,


    • KEVIN

      A shafts ability to have a VISIBLE effect on shot trajectory and spin is directly proportional to how much the shaft actually can be made to bend during the swing as it goes from “loaded” to “unloaded” coming into impact. Now, how much the shaft actually bend to do this depends entirely on all these things – 1) the higher the clubhead speed and later the release, the more the shaft can flex forward at impact to create a difference in shot height and spin. This of course depends on how stiff the shaft is to begin with in relation to the golfer’s speed and release. So in other words, if you have a golfer with a 90mph iron speed and a late release but he is playing a XXX flex shaft, no, you won’t see hardly any effect of the bending of the shaft on the shot. But if this player is using a standard S with a softer tip, then yes, he will see an increase in height and spin.

      2) The longer the length of the shaft AND the smaller the tip diameter, the more the shaft could bend during the swing and have an effect on the shot shape and spin. This is why golfers notice differences in performance with shafts for drivers and woods more than they do for irons. Wood shafts are longer and smaller in tip diameter so they bend TWICE AS MUCH during the swing in comparison to an iron shaft which is shorter and larger in tip diameter.

      These things talk about the OVERALL BENDING of the shaft during the swing. Flex/Kick point are dead terms these days but they used to mean the distribution of stiffness within the whole shaft. Meaning, whether the shaft is more tip flexible, tip medium firm, tip stiff or very stiff in the tip section within its overall flex. These stiffness variations are usually seen more in wood shafts vs iron shafts, and again, show up far more for higher speed/late release players than medium speed/lower speed/midway release/early release golfers.

      So, add this all up and when you look at changing tip stiffness in a shaft in a 7 or 8 iron length iron, you have all sorts of things stacking up against the golfer when it comes to whether such a shaft change can visibly affect the height and spin of the iron shot. Hence if the player has >85mph speed with a very late release and changes from a very stiff tip shaft to a soft tip shaft, then yes, he probably will see about 10-15 feet difference in the height of the 7 or 8 iron shot. But for other situations such as lower speeds, less late release, subtle tip stiffness changes – no, you won’t typically see a thing in terms of shot height changes.

      So as long as the golfer does not have an overly sensitive feel for the bending of all shafts (rare for this to happen with iron shafts) then it is better to err on the side of less stiff than more stiff IN ANY SHAFT FITTING SITUATION whether we are talking driver, woods or irons.


  4. hello tom i have a lot of trouble finding the type of shaft im looking for the worst part of it im a fitter! i have a low spin rate with my iron and a low ball flight. i was gaming the dynalite gold xp r 300 my ball flight never got so high i got my iron stolen an this shaft is not longer available im wondering if a kbs tour r flex would be a same type of shaft? will it help me get some spin and more peak height or a pxi from project x
    thanks sorry my fault in from montreal

    • Gabriel:

      I am sorry that we do not have any specific bend profile data on the Dynalite Gold XP iron shafts. We have data on the Dynalite Gold and the Dynamic Gold XP but not the Dynalite XP. but since the XP in Dynamic is very similar to the conventional Dynamic Gold, I have to believe the XP version of the Dynalite would still have the same tip section stiffness design as the conventional Dynalite Gold which is a little softer than Dynamic Gold. As such you should be looking within the standard Dynalite Gold for a replacement and not in the KBS Tour shaft.


  5. Tom
    Recently was fit for a set of ping I series, the last two shafts in the running a CFS stiff and PX6.0. Both generated consistent 120mph ball speed and similar launch profile; dispersion slightly tighter w the PX. Based on everything I’ve read above and what else I’ve read about CFS it seems this shouldn’t be the case as the two sound like they have very different characteristics…the PX mainly being stiffer in the tip section. I’m a moderate tempo 89-92mph 7i swing with what I would consider a relatively standard wrist release. How could these two measure up so similar in performance? I’m confused really as they seem very different. Thanks very much!

    • Jared:

      I hate to tell you this, but the reason you don’t see much difference in these shafts is because when it comes to iron shafts, there really is very little difference in terms of outright visible shot performance differences between shafts of the same flex. Shoot, with many golfers, they could use a full flex softer iron shaft and never notice any real difference. The reason is because in terms of how much iron shafts do actually bend during the swing, it is not very much – half of how much shafts in woods bend during the swing. So with a hugely reduced amount of actual bending in the iron shafts, there just is so little difference in real performance. Only players with very high speeds and very late releases who also have a very refined sense of feel, and who are also very repeatably consistent with their swings will typically see much in the way of actual shot shape, ball flight differences between iron shafts of the same flex measurement.

      Now with shafts for woods, it is different because shafts for woods do bend on average twice as much during the swing as will iron shafts of the same letter flex measurement. Lots of players can notice differences in wood shafts. But not so much with the irons.


  6. Assuming all other things being equal, what ball flight characteristics would you expect if the tip section is too soft for a golfer’s swing?


    • RON:

      If the golfer has a later to very late unhinging of the wrist cock angle on the downswing, the most common characteristic of the tip section being too soft for the golfer would be a little higher ball flight combined with the golfer perhaps getting a slight sense that the shaft somehow feels a little bit more flexible than he is used to.


  7. Re: TaylorMade RAC CGB Graphite RAC CGB ‘Soft Tip’ Regular Shaft


    Great, informative, article! Thank you!

    I have used & enjoy a set of TaylorMade RAC CGB Regular Shaft – the ‘Original’ version when the CGB’s first were released by TaylorMade. Over time, several of the hosels & shafts have been damaged. I like the feel & flight from the OEM shafts, but cannot find these shafts available from TaylorMade.


    1. Is the TaylorMade RAC CGB Graphite RAC CGB ‘Soft Tip’ Regular Shaft still available through any of your sources? [It is not through the ‘Official’ TaylorMade repair facility which we’ve sent the clubs to in So. Cal.]

    2. If not, what is the equivalent – or most closely matched – replacement shaft for this Club which you could recommend?

    3. Can you recommend a facility to accomplish this?

    Thanks very much. Greatly appreciated.


    • JOE
      The shafts that are made for use by the OEM companies in their stock clubs are proprietary shafts to the companies and as such are not typically available to anyone outside of the company’s own repair facilities. Plus it sounds like TM no longer makes these shafts since their own repair places have them. So the only precise way to be able to find an alternative shaft that would be the same or similar would be as follows.

      A VERY WELL TRAINED AND EXPERIENCED clubmaker would have to remove the shaft from the longest club you have left in this set so he could perform a full bend point analysis of the shaft. With that information if he had our Bend Profile Software program, he could look through the data base to see what available shafts would be the closest match to what you have in weight and in full bend profile stiffness design. Problem is, this is a quite advanced form of club analysis that not very many clubmakers are yet into doing. So if you were to go hunting on your own for a clubmaker to possibly do this, it most likely would be a bit of work to call each one to ask if they can do precisely what I outlined in my comment above. Also, the success of this depends on what clubs you have left that are intact from which the shaft could be removed to be tested. If you are talking about a set of irons, it would be best if you had the 3 iron with which to do this because any of the other shafts in the iron set that are shorter would have been tip trimmed and thus make it much more difficult to determine what the raw uncut shaft was really like in all its measurements.


  8. Hi Tom,
    Following on from the above if I wanted to shaft the PCF Micro Tour wedges with grafite. What would be a good starting point shaft to consider?

    • PETER:

      BEcause wedges are so short in length and because the shafts installed in wedges are so typically installed with the most tip trim, it’s not going to be very likely that you would experience a feeling of the shaft in a wedge kicking more and giving you that higher flight you seek. Besides, the loft being so much higher on wedges than other irons, that on its own accounts for the higher flight anyway. So if you have decided to use the GREEN shaft in the irons, then use it in the wedges as well with its normal tip trim for wedges.


  9. Thanks Tom
    I think we can set up the White and the green to compare the two.

  10. Hi Tom

    I am currently working through a fitting process for a set of 771 CSI’s and rather than experimenting with a wide range of shafts I would rather narrow the process down to begin with.
    I have a swing speed of 71-74 mph with a 6 iron.
    I am of a fairly average strength with a smoothish transition.
    I have an early to mid release.
    I am leaning towards a graphite shaft in a set of irons 6-gap wedge.
    I would like a lively shaft with a fairly high ball flight.
    Given these details where would you recommend me begging the search for the correct shaft.
    I currently play a 14 degree 919 F/D with a regular S2S White shaft which I think is a great set up but I would be even happier if this flew a little higher.

    • Peter
      Given what you say about wanting a shaft that feels like it kicks a little more for your 71-74mph speed and smooth transition and early to mid release, I would say that the S2S Green may be a suitable candidate because it is a little more tip flexible than the S2S White shaft design. For your speed and transition and desire for the iron shaft to perform this way, I would tend to say the Green A flex over the R since iron shafts never bend as much as do wood shafts during the swing.


  11. Hi, was just wondering whether the parallel tip c-taper was in the database yet? Thanks

    • Alex:

      Yes for sure, the parallel tip version of the R, S and X flexes in the C Taper iron shaft are in the bend profile software data base. If you need any help with this, you can contact David March in our office at david@wishongolf.com. David handles everything concerning updates and downloads on that software program for us.

  12. Tom,
    I am looking for a .355 graphite shaft option to the Nippon Modus 130s. Do you happen to have data or graphite shaft suggestions comparable to Modus 130 bend profile?

    • Peter
      I am sorry but we do not have the bend profile measurement data for the Modus 130 shafts. We’re working on other ways as we can to acquire the various shaft models that are missing from the current data base to be able to include them and thus try to keep this data base as complete as is possible. BUt for right now that doesn’t help you and I am sorry we can’t provide that info you seek.

  13. tom I am 66 and a decent golfer usually in high 80,s.My 5 iron swingspeed is 65-70.Ido have a early release.I enjoy my nike covert driver with a A flex.I also like my cobra amp cell hybrids,but my amp cell lack distance with reg.dynalite 90 shafts,but I feel Im not getting enough distance.I really have no problems with hitting it straig ht or high.As a matter of fact I think I hit the 9-aw too high.Im thinking of doing one your irons and going with graphite shafts,but Im afraid I might hit them too high.Could youplease suggest a head shaft from your 2014 catalog or your new one,which I have not received yet[just changed address]that would suite me wanting to increase distance without ballooning my flight.thanks mike

    • MIKE:
      From what you say about your early release and very high ball flight, especially with higher loft clubheads, I am going to bet the farm that the reason you do hit the ball very high is because your early release causes you to allow the clubhead to pass the hands before the clubhead gets to impact – thus adding a good bit more dynamic loft to the clubhead when it meets the ball. If you can have someone shoot a video of your swing as the camera faces you, play the vid in slo mo as the club is coming to the ball and I believe you will see this matter of the head arriving to the ball ahead of your hands. Proper impact position is to either have the hands directly in line with the head (driver/woods) or to have the hands in front of the clubhead and ball (irons).

      We see this a lot with golfers who hit the ball very high. So much so that whenever we hear of any golfer talking about hitting the ball very high, 99 times out of 100 this is the reason. As such, it is a swing issue and not one that any clubhead design or shaft design can remedy. Thus to get the ball down visibly, you are going to have to work on your impact position to get the hands more in front of the clubhead at the moment of impact. Do that and I would bet everything that your ball flight will come down significantly.

      Hope this helps,


  14. Hi Tom,
    I am finishing my PhD where we looked at wrist release for pros using two shafts of different flexural rigidty (EI). One shaft was shown to be stiffer at the tip, and it was reported (as you state) that wrist release was delayed for the stiffer tip shaft.

    My question is, why are golfers who delay wrist release better suited to stiffer tip shafts? Is it due obtaining faster clubhead speed? More optimal launch parameters?


    • CHRIS

      Much of that is in the matter of a more optimal ball flight shape. The later the release, the more the shaft can arrive at impact in a curved forward position over its whole length. This happens because when we unhinge the wrist cock angle (release) at that point the arms begin to slow down while the club begins to accelerate to its maximum velocity. Since the arms are slowing down while the club is accelerating to a higher velocity, the mass of the head at the end of the shaft begins to push the shaft forward against the resistance of the arms/hands slowing down. Hence the later the release, the more the shaft can arrive in more of a bent forward position at impact. And the main thing that happens when the shaft comes to impact curved forward is that the loft on the head is higher, which brings about both a higher launch angle and more backspin from the higher dynamic loft – both which are things that bring about a higher flight with a steeper angle of descent.

      Because shafts are always designed to be much smaller in diameter at the tip than at the butt, no matter what the tip end is always more flexible than the butt end in actual bending amount capability. So when the late release brings the most forward bending right at impact, that action is bending the tip end more than any other part of the shaft. Therefore to keep the ball from flying too high with too much spin for the late release player, a more stiff tip is advised as a way to reduce some of this forward bending, and from it, prevent the launch angle and spin from being too high for the golfer.


  15. It seems at least from this website that you suspicions about the c taper lite is correct Tom:


    I did want to bring up again a question I posted earlier simply because I’m very curious what your response would be:

    I know you have suggested fitting the butt stiffness to swing speed and tip stiffness to release characteristics. Take the PXI shaft for example, if I had a 85-90 mph 6 iron swing speed, smooth-moderate tempo and transition with mid release, what would you say would be a reasonable flex to start off trying? I see that the 5.5 has more of a mid release tip and 6.0 more of late release tip based on your profile numbers for this swing speed. However, it seems the 5.5’s butt section has a swing speed rating significantly less than my 85-90 mph swing speed while the 6.0’s butt section would be more aligned to this speed range. Do you see a preference for one flex vs the other in this situation based on the numbers? I feel the numbers may justify 6.0 perhaps a bit more but I suspect the softer 5.5 butt section may be easier to handle for my wrists which have been injured in the past. Will try to test both for myself but interested in your thoughts.


    • From the data we have so far, the PXi appear to be a fairly butt soft design per each FM level they are offered in – and BTW, talking about the taper tip version in this comment. On paper it could be said the 6.5 would not be too butt stiff for you. Now it is true that the upper tip section can and does throw some influence on the butt stiffness as per se the swing speed rating. Since you say you have some wrist issues, based only on the numbers, I would say PXi 6.0 to get you what you want.


  16. Tom curious if you had any chance to compare say PXI 5.5 to C-taper Lite-S in terms of bend profile data. Seems to me a lot of talk comparing the two on forums lately as they seem similar in terms of weight, step less profile, and even satin finish.

    Thanks again hope all is well with you.

    • STEVE
      We do not yet have the LITE C-Taper in the data base of the software. Hoperfully we’ll get that with all the next batch of new shafts from all the companies soon so we can include it in the next update. In guessing, I can’t believe that KBS would make the Lite version of the C taper with a substantially different bend profile than the normal C taper version. if so, the C taper should be substantially more tip stiff than the PXi.


  17. Tom,

    What brand of graphite iron shafts can you recommend I try that offer low kick point, high trajectory and high ball flight for .355 taper tip? I’m looking to get a really high ball flight. I appreciate your assistance and feedback. I’m looking to install this in my Miura blades and Titleist AP2 irons.


    • Bryon:
      We do not have a lot of bend profile data measurements on other companies’ 0.355 taper tip graphite shafts since so much of the graphite iron design by all companies is done more for 0.370″ parallel tip construction. Of the very, very few in our data base, the Project X PXi graphite shafts are SLIGHTLY more tip flexible (same thing as a low bend point in terminology these days, since kick/bend point have become a dead, meaningless terms in shaft design) but I would not say that it is tip flexible enough for you to see a REALLY high flight. About the only way you can ensure that flight is if you dropped the WHOLE FLEX of the shaft down by at least one full flex level so the WHOLE shaft is bending more to potentially kick the ball higher. Since you are looking for this in your Miuras and AP’s, you may want to see if Mr. Miura will answer your question or if Mr Uhlein at Titleist will answer your question.


  18. Tom

    Can I use a frequency machine and various weights to obtain the 4 different flex point CPM’s?

    Is there an outline on the exact procedure to use?



    • MIKE

      I assume you are asking about the methodology we use to take the bend profile measurements for our TWGT Shaft Bend Profile software. This is done strictly with an Auditor brand load cell/strain gauge frequency analyzer that has had its circuit board altered to allow the unit to read frequency up to 1000 cpm. Frequency analyzers which require the shaft to move up and down between two sensors cannot be used to do all the freq measurements over the length of the shaft. the reason is because the sensors on machines like this cannot pick up the very fast oscillation rate with very low amplitude of the measurements 11″, 16″ and 21″ up from the tip of the shaft.

      So with the Auditor machine (which is available from golfmechanix.com) the measurements are done at 11″, 16″, 21″, 26″, 31″, 36″ and 41″ UP FROM THE TIP. The weight is a 454g weight with a length of 40mm and a penetration depth of 40mm. For iron and hybrid shafts, the measurements are done from 36″ down to 11″ up from the tip because iron and hybrid shafts are shorter in raw length than are wood shafts.

      If you need any other information, don’t hesitate to ask.


  19. Thanks so much for taking time to answer my question Tom, really appreciate it!

    Again, I’m very interested in your method of shaft fitting.

    Wondering if you have tested the ping CFS shaft in stiff flex. I’m playing this shaft right now and would love to compare it to some of the numbers you shared with me.

    Hope you are not working too hard.



    • Steve

      Would very much love to help, but as it stands now, none of the OEM golf companies will send us their stock shafts to measure for addition to the bend profile software, nor will they allow their respective shaft vendors to send us these shafts for measurement. So the limited OEM stock shaft data we have in the BP software data base is taken from such OEM stock shafts that we have gotten from clubmakers who pull them out of a club they are re shafting for a golfer. While we’d like to have all these stock shafts, it is unlikely we ever will have more than a limited handful in the software data base because of these restrictions.

      Now if you want to pull the CFS shaft from your club and send it to us, we’d be happy to do a profile on it to let you know. But that’s the end of our ability to help you in this specific area.


    • Thanks again for your reply Tom and also thanks for your generous offer to measure the CFS. If I ever pull one will certainly think about sending it to you.

      Wondering if you could tell me the shaft profile numbers you have for the regular Project X 5.5 and 6.0 .355 shafts?

      I’m debating some Project X PXi 5.5s right now, have your numbers on the PXi from some posts on GolfWRX but I have only hit the regular Project X so wanted to compare the two.

      My swing speed is about 85mph with 6 iron and have a moderate tempo and transition with a mid release. I’m leaning towards PXi 5.5 instead of 6.0 because would like a bit more butt softness for the sake of my wrists.

    • Steve:

      Project X is a very tip stiff shaft design, much more even than other popular good player iron shafts such as the Dynamic Gold or KBS Tour. Project X is typically fit more to golfers with a VERY LATE release who also are much more aggressive in their downswing move at the ball, OR, for golfers who have over time developed a preference for a very stiff feel at impact and through the ball.

      However, the stiffness feel of the tip section of the PX can be “muted” by using an FM level in the shaft that would be LOWER than what your clubhead speed might otherwise indicate. On paper, an 86mph 5 iron clubhead speed would normally be matched to a Project X 6.0 to 6.5. So if you do use the 5.5 this would offer a softer overall flex feel versus your 86mph clubhead speed, which in turn can make the tip section play and feel less stiff than if you had chosen the 6.5 as the match to your 86mph speed. I am not totally sure why you want to consider Project X since this is such a tip stiff design, and given that you say you have a moderate transition/tempo with mid release.

      Now on the other hand the PXi shaft is a totally different model from the PX – it is not nearly as stiff overall per the same FM freq level nor is it as tip stiff as the PX. The PXi would be a little better choice for a moderate transition/tempo with mid release and in this shaft if you did want more butt stiffness for your wrists, the 5.5 would be softer in relation to an 86mph iron swing speed. But do stay away from the Project X as it is too stiff for your swing characteristics.


    • Thanks Tom! I actually was not considering the project X at all. I have hit it in the past and subjectively the feel was very “boardy” and harsh and not for me, certainly with my wrist issues. So it makes sense to me that your objective measurements seems to support my subjective feel: that it’s a fairly tip and butt stiff shaft relative to other shafts on the market. I have hit the PXi which felt much smoother which I liked.

      Thus, I was really only considering the PXi which I do have your profile numbers from the GolfWRX forum and relative to other shaft profile numbers I have seen (Dynamic Gold, KBS tour, etc) appears to be a bit softer overall. However I noticed that the profile numbers for Project X 6.0 is 222/256/309/393/539/878 and for PXi is 216/258/308/391/536/895. This appears to be almost identical except perhaps at the butt so it seems strange that 2 shafts with such similar objective profile numbers at least at the 6.0 flex have such different subjective feels which is fairly universally shared by anyone who has hit both. Wondering if you have any input on this?

      Also, I know you have suggested fitting the butt stiffness to swing speed and tip stiffness to release in some posts. For the PXi: I believe I would be between the 6.0 to 6.5 in terms of butt stiffness based on 85mph swing speed but I would be between the 5.5 and 6.0 based in terms of tip stiffness based on mid release at this swing speed. Currently, I am leaning towards the 5.5 PXi because I think the SOFTER butt section in the 5.5 maybe better for my wrists despite the fact that I think I can handle the stiffer 6.0 tip section. Does this application of your logic make sense or am I misinterpreting some of your posts?

      Ultimately I will certainly make ban effort to try to 2 shafts in the same head outside if possible as I’m sure you will tell me that may be the final deciding factor.

      Thanks again and I really enjoy hearing all your feedback. Hopefully I haven’t taken too much of your time.

  20. Thanks so much for the reply Tom!

    I actually meant to ask in regards to soft/medium/stiff 16/11 bend profiles for IRON SHAFTS in the swing speed ratings in the 75-85mph and 80-90mph range (for a 6 iron).

    As far as WOOD SHAFTS go, I’m also interested in the soft/medium/stiff 16/11 bend profiles for swing speed ratings in the 95-105mph and 100-110mph range (for a driver).

    I really enjoy reading your blog and your posts on GolfWRX. Nice to have some OBJECTIVE ways to judge shafts as opposed to a million posts on how SUBJECTIVELY a shaft felt to a random tester.


    • Steve:

      Very sorry for the delay in responding to this. It’s that time of the year for deadlines in a bunch of things I am in charge of here.

      Within iron shafts, the differences in the range of tip soft, tip medium, tip stiff among shafts that have an iron swing speed rating of 75-85 vs 80-90 are very similar so these numbers will apply to both those closely spaced shaft swing speed ratings in iron shafts.

      Tip soft – 16″ = 500 to 530; 11″ = 800 to 840
      Tip Medium – 16″ = 531 to 565; 11″ – 841 to 880
      Tip Firm – 16″ = 567 to 600; 11″ = 881 and up to 980

      For the wood shafts for the 95-105 and 100-110. . . .

      Tip soft – 16″ = 475 to 495; 11″ = 770 to 800
      Tip Medium – 16″ = 496 to 525; 11″ = 801 to 830
      Tip Stiff – 16″ = 526 to 560; 11″ = 831 and up to 900

      Hope this helps, and thanks for your patience with me,


  21. Tom, I was wondering what 16/11 measurements would be considered soft/medium/stiff for a shaft with a 75-85mph or 80-90mph speed rating? Thanks so much!

    • Steven:
      For shafts for woods that have a swing speed rating of either 75-85 or 80-90mph, the 16/11 bend profile measurement ranges that would indicate whether the shafts would be tip soft, tip medium or tip stiff would be as follows:

      TIp Soft – 16 = 440-459; 11 = 730-759
      Tip Medium – 16 = 460-479; 11 = 760-789
      Tip Stiff – 16 = 480-500; 11 = 790-820

      Thanks very much for your question because it is a VERY Good question that you ask which proves you understand this relationship between clubhead speed and bend profile is a progressive relationship. Very good of you to understand this.


  22. That means frequenz matching with typical 5 inch Butt clamping is without every sinn….because the frequency (only with 5 inch Butt clamping) do not represent the Tip area.

    • Herr Hase:

      We are very much aware of the fact that the butt frequency is only one part of the whole stiffness design of a shaft. We’ve been involved in testing the full length stiffness of shafts for a very long time, since 1996. In 2006 we created a software program we call the TWGT Shaft Bend Profile software which has now more than 2,600 different shafts in the data base to allow clubmakers to compare the full length stiffness measurements to the tip of all these shafts in a graph and data measurement format. If you are interested in learning more about this program and how we measure full length stiffness for comparison in shafts, send me an email to contact@wishongolf.com and I will be glad to send back information with illustrations to show you what this software is and what it can do.


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