Sterling Irons® Single Length Set

Sterling-Irons-setSterling Irons® Single Length Set

A Unique Set Design to be Built to One Length for all Clubs to Deliver a Perfect Match of all Elements of Swing Feel for shot consistency.

Features:

  • If you are interested in the Sterling Irons® single length clubs please use the Find a Clubfitter form to find and contact a clubfitter near you, or visit http://www.sterlingirons.com.
  • Single length construction ensures all possible elements of swing feel are identical for each club in the set – same MOI, same total weight, same headweight, same balance point – to offer the chance for improved shot consistency
  • Identical length and lie allow the golfer to use the same stance, same posture, same swing plane forimproved shot consistency
  • Optional high COR #5 hybrid with high COR #4, 5, 6, and 7 irons offer proper distance for the low loft clubs at the shorter single length. Other single length sets may lose distance with the low loft clubs
  • Conventional cast carbon steel in the #8 to gap wedge with 5* loft increments blend with the high COR design of the low loft clubheads to off er proper distance gaps and proper
    distance with the high loft clubs. Other single length sets may generate too much distance with the high loft clubs
  • Available in a #5 hybrid or #5 iron to match the player’s desire and ability, with #6 to 9, PW and Gap Wedge and Sand Wedge
  • Sterling Irons® Single Length clubs can be built to 36.5”, 36.75 or 37” length for each club as fit by the Clubmaker for the golfer’s comfort and preference. Contrasts with most other single length sets being created for a 37.5” length – which can generate too much distance with the high loft irons
  • Intended to be custom fit with any Wishon Golf S2S iron shaft model and flex to meet the swing speed, transition/tempo and release point of the golfer.
  • Sterling Irons® hybrid uses standard iron shaft (.370)
  • The #4 iron should only be used by golfers with a #5 iron clubhead speed of 85mph or higher to be able to make the club generate the proper trajectory and height to be able to carry the ball further than the #5 iron
  • Available in RH (#5 Hybrid, 4-9, PW, GW, SW) & LH (5-SW); New Blade Wedges (LW, SW) available in RH only

For complete information on the technical benefits of single length set construction, we offer this complete Q&A about single length iron set technology.


Tom talks about the Sterling Irons® Single Length Set

Ratings and Reviews

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Rating: 3.8/5 (760 votes cast)

Sterling Irons® Single Length Set, 3.8 out of 5 based on 760 ratings

889 Comments

  1. Hey Tom. I’m up in Canada and would love to try your one length irons. Can I purchase or demp some? I am a lefty, do you make them in lefty? Would love a set one day 4-SW. What are my options? Thank you very much.

    • DALLAS

      We do offer the Sterling Irons in left hand, in the #5 iron through SW. There is no #5 hybrid or #4 iron or Lob wedge in the left hand version I am sorry to tell you. That’s simply because those heads are the least in demand in the Sterling set and no left hand model has ever generated more than 8% of the order demand as its right hand version. So the numbers for us to do the tooling dies and minimum inventory production of the #4, #5 hyb and LW are unfortunately just not there to allow that to happen.

      But don’t think of the set makeup of a single length set the same way you do with a conventional lengths set. Many people who can hit a 4 iron high enough in a conventional length to make the club carry a club longer than the 5 iron cannot do that with a single length set. The reason is because the length of the 4 iron in the single length set is a lot shorter than it is in a conventional lengths iron set. Normal conventional length of a 4 iron is 38.5″. In the Sterling set the standard length of the irons is 36.5″. That 2″ difference drops the clubhead speed by around 4 to 7 mph, depending on the golfer’s swing characteristics. So to try to hit a 4 iron with 4-7mph less clubhead speed means the golfer needs to have a clubhead speed to begin with of at least 85mph with his present 7 or 8 iron. Without that much speed it is not wise to try to use a 4 iron in the single length set and instead the golfer should opt for a hybrid of 20* loft at a length of between 38-38.5″ in its place. In the end, the majority of golfers with a 7 iron clubhead speed under 85mph will have one less iron in their single length set than they do in their conventional irons set, because of this fact that the low number irons are shorter in the single length set for control and consistency. Hope this helps and thanks so much for your interest,

      TOM

    • I’m in Canada and had my leftie set made by Dan at Dan’s Custom Golf in Hampton Ontario. Love them… Can’t see me changing irons for a loooong time.

    • Jeffrey
      That’s great to hear but even better to hear that you chose to work with Dan for your fitting needs. He is truly one of the best in the field and I am very pleased that he chooses to work with some of my designs in his fitting work for golfers. Good for you, and the very best to you in this great game,

      TOM

    • Thanks so much Tom. All of that makes sense yes. I suppose I could get a 4 hybrid in place of a 4 iron. Now I have a question you may or may not want to answer, as it deals with one of your competitors. I was looking into the Pinhawks as a single length club option. Their price point is much cheaper, but what would I be getting for that price? IS the technology up to par. As far as I can tell all the clubheads weight the same at approx 272g, and that’s it. Some guy in Edmonton has the heads and I am actually going to go check them out this week.
      I would love your honest opinion on them. I will also mention that on their website they do actually mention your clubs as an alternative and recommend if you do not buy from them then purchase from Sterling as you guys are one the leading edge of one length. Thank you again for the interaction.

      Dallas

    • Dallas

      Sure thing I don’t mind commenting on the differences between the Pinhawks and the Sterling irons. The reason the price is so different first of all is because the Pinhawks are one piece investment cast stainless steel iron heads with a common polish and tumble finish. That’s the lowest cost type of iron head in the golf industry today. The Sterling #4, 5, 6, 7 irons are a 2 piece investment cast carbon steel head with a high strength steel high COR face plate welded to the body, after which the heads are nickel chromium plated. The Sterling #8 to LW heads are a one piece inv cast carbon steel head with NICr plating to finish the heads. Those head construction types are the most expensive in the golf industry for an iron.

      Performance wise I can list the differences. 1) The Pinhawks used to be made to a single length of 37.5″ which is a 6 iron length. I do not know if they changed that recently or in the past couple of years since I designed and intro’d the Sterling irons. A 6 iron length makes it a little more difficult to adapt to the 9, PW, SW in the set because the 6 iron length makes them about 2″ longer than conventional wedge lengths. It would be easier to hit the high number irons and wedges farther than you need because of this much longer length. 2) I did the Sterling irons based on an 8 iron length because most people hit an 8 iron more consistently than they do a 6 iron, and because an 8 iron length makes the wedges only an inch longer than what they are in a conventional set. So that allows the wedges to be easier to adapt to and less likely to hit the shot farther than you wish to.

      3) The only possible downside of an 8 iron length is that it means the very low loft irons are harder to hit high to fly and carry unless you have a higher clubhead speed. I did offset some of this by designing the Sterling #4, 5, 6, 7 irons with a high COR face to add more ball speed to help get the shot height and carry distance up. But if you do not have a clubhead speed with your current 7 iron of 85mph or higher, we would not recommend you try to use the #4 iron in the set. And if your 7 iron clubhead speed is under 75mph, do not include a 5 iron in your set. With the Pinhawk #4 iron at a 6 iron length, you probably could hit that iron ok if your 7 iron speed is 80mph or higher. And with the Pinhawk 5 iron you probably would be able to hit it high enough to be happy with it at a 6 iron length if your current 7 iron speed is over 70mph. But again, 6 iron length is more difficult to be consistent with than an 8 iron length and 6 iron length makes the wedges harder to get used to for accuracy control and distance control.

      Also the Pinhawk heads are not made with a weight bore inside the head so it is more difficult to achieve a wider range of swingweight for whatever shaft weight and grip size and length you might need. All the Sterling heads have a weight bore to allow weight to be added during assembly so that it is possible to achieve a wider range of swingweights for different custom shaft weight and grip weight and length requirements. In addition bending the Sterling irons for custom loft and lie fitting needs is easier because the heads are carbon steel. Pinhawks are harder to bend for custom loft and lie because they are cast stainless steel.

      That pretty much covers the differences in the two models so I hope this helps,
      TOM

    • Dallas,
      Here is my personal experience on the Pinhawks vs the Sterlings since I have owned them both.
      The Pinhawks are cheaper but can only be played at 37- 37 1/2 inches but not any shorter because they get too light.They also don’t have a very good feel to them.
      The Sterlings are more expensive but what I did was I ordered the 6 iron loft two degrees strong at 25 degrees and my 7 iron 1 degree strong at 30 degrees so it saved me a few bucks from needing a 5 iron.
      Now all my irons are exactly 5 degrees apart in loft.
      (lofts are at 25,30,35,40,45,50,55)Only needed 7 clubs instead of 8.
      I found that the sterling were much easier to hit at 36 1/2 than the Pinhawks were at 37-37 1/2 and the Sterlings feel great.The 6 and 7 iron have a high COR which gives it a pinging sound and just feel like it gives the shorter length club more zip.The 8-SW are all forged which give them a very soft and muted feel.
      In my opinion the Sterlings are the best clubs ever made and I think the old adage “you get what you pay for” isn’t always true but it surely is true with the Sterlings.

    • Thank you Tom. Perfect analysis. I’m going to try and see the Pinhawks, but honestly i am leaning towards the Sterlings. I just need to find someone in Canada who sells them at Canadian currency. I could order through your website, but that is US currency I am assuming?

      And Ed, thank you for the comparison of the two. I always figured that the Sterlings would just feel better. I play a lot so I may as well invest in something that is the best. Thanks again

    • DALLAS

      Just so there is no confusion, Wishon Golf clubheads, shafts and grips are sold by Diamond Golf International to custom clubmakers worldwide for them to use in their custom fitting work for the golfers they serve in their respective areas. We do not sell fully finished clubs as we are a wholesale supplier of my designs to the custom clubmaker community. Golfers obtain custom fit Wishon designs by contacting a certified custom clubmaker with whom they can meet and work to be custom fit for the model and clubs they wish to play. To see if there is a clubfitter in reasonable proximity to where you live, you can go to our home page and click on the FIND A CLUBFITTER link found at the top of the page. There you can input your location and the clubmakers who are closest to you will be displayed. I hope this helps but if I am wrongly directing you please let me know so I can help further. Thanks so much for your interest, really.

      TOM

    • Tom, first off thank you as always for your continued support of my work. You can be sure that when customers come to me looking for quality and playability – the Wishon heads are a go to product.

      Dallas, not sure where in Canada you are but if you are southern ON, then I would love to meet with you, do a fitting, and get you started on a set of Sterling SL clubs – the best IMO. Yes a single club can be built if that is your goal – to test.

    • DAN

      The thanks are all to you for your long time commitment to doing nothing but the highest level of work for your golfers. Ever since I had the chance to meet you many years ago at a clubmaker convention when you were first getting into your TLT fitting system I have known that you are a definite step above the level of the vast majority of clubmakers in the field. For that you should be commended and I have nothing but the highest respect for the work you do in this great field.
      TOM

    • Again, thank you so much for your time and effort responding to me. It is really appreciated. I have figured out Diamond Golf International distributes the club heads and such. I looked for someone in Edmonton who deals with starlings and have not found anyone.

      Dan I did come across your website in my searches and was going to contact you here soon. Unfortunately I am all the way in Edmonton. I was going to ask if you ever fitted someone not in person? I was curious if that was possible? It might be? I know my swing pretty well and stuff. I did find someone here who deals with Hireko golf and the Pinhawks Single Length. He is making me a couple of lefty demo clubs. So i can see if I like them or not? I’m looking forward to hitting them, in the simulator of course (-26 today). I did ask him if he could or knew of someone who could get some sterling iron heads. He mentioned how it may be a possibility.

      Just more in my journey of finding some new clubs to help my game. I will say I am learning so much about clubs and shafts and grips and club making. Watching so many youtube videos by Mr Wishon, Tom you explain things so well and its a treat listening to golf club intricacies. Have a great evening guys.

    • DALLAS

      One of our customers that does do a pretty darn good job of fitting the Sterling Irons on line is at http://www.sterlingirons.com. I am aware that they have done a very good job assessing the golfer’s swing and playing characteristics to offer a good recommendation for the length, lie, shaft model, shaft flex and trim, swingweight, set makeup and grip size for the Sterling Irons. I am also aware that Edmonton is pretty much devoid for good, experienced clubfitters and I am sorry it is that way because that’s a big city with enough golfers to support a decent clubfitter I should think. So you might think about checking out sterlingirons.com to see if you feel good about working with them.

      Thanks again,
      TOM

    • “The 8-SW are all forged which give them a very soft and muted feel.”

      is Ed right when he says this?

    • MIKE

      ALL of the Sterling iron head bodies are investment cast from 8620 carbon steel. Not forged. So the hardness of the carbon steel in the Sterling heads is the same as the carbon steel used in a forging but the method of manufacture is casting not forging. The #4, 5, 6, 7 are 2-piece construction with the cast 8620 body with the high COR thin HS300 high strength steel faces. The #8-LW are one piece cast 8620. For an iron with as deep of a cavity as the Sterling #8 to LW, first, that deep of a cavity back cannot be forged and two, there really would be no perceptable difference in the performance or feel of the #8-LW heads if they were forged vs cast because of the deep cavity back and the lofts being over 35*. So called forged feel can only be perceived when the ball is compressed more against the face. Once loft gets over 35* the impact is so much more of a sliding, glancing blow and not an inward compression of the ball.

      Hope this helps and thanks for your interest,
      TOM

      TOM

    • Tom
      Yes Edmonton is surprisingly void of this service. There is the box store Golf Tec, but these box stores I don’t know if they actually care. Haha. Maybe I should get into club fitting and making. I did just purchase the Modern Guide to Golf Clubmaking by Jeff Summitt for curiosity purposes. Lots of information in that.
      Ok i wont bother you anymore unless I have a pressing question i would like you to answer. Thank you.

    • Dallas
      I had a little smile when you said you bought the Modern Guide to Clubmaking. I was president of Dynacraft Golf Products from 86 to 93 and wrote the original Modern Guide to Clubmaking in 87, with the 2nd edition done in 90. (https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Guide-Golf-Clubmaking/dp/0961941332) Dynacraft owned the copyrights on all the books I wrote for them so when I left the company in 93 to go to Golfsmith, they just re printed the book with Jeff Summit’s name as the author when they kept selling it. Then Hireko bought Dynacraft and Jeff was about the only one of my former employees who went along with the buy out to work for Hireko. I am sure he’s re written parts or most of it by now since the years have gone by but it was a chuckle for me to read that your search for info took you pretty much back in my direction again !! HA ! Good luck and have fun and when you do have questions you know where to find me!

      TOM

    • Haha Tom, that is amazing that you wrote that book. Glad I could bring a smile to your face, even if it was inadvertent. Wonderful information in there. I am trying to get someone to send me just the Sterling iron heads. I am confident in my swing knowledge to fit the correct shaft and grip, maybe even lie angle. I’ve contacted a few guys who deal with the Sterlings, and I’m waiting to hear back from them. I hope this is a possibility. I did get a couple of Pinhawk demos made up and they appear to be a bit big and clunky for me.

  2. Hey there TOM, how are you? I hope all is well with you and your new year is off to a great start!

    I wanted to ask you your opinion with an idea that popped into my head a couple weeks back. Recently I had purchased a 775HS #2 and I am REALLY looking forward to testing that once we’re able to get back out the course here.

    The idea I had was what about using a Sterling 4I, with loft bent to 17 degrees (or even 16 degrees if needed) and adding 1″ to my current 37.5″ 4I-LW Sterling setup. I was this could be an alternative to my driving iron? I use 37.5″ set due to my 10-finger grip.

    If I could get setup the HI-COR Sterling 4I at 38.5″, 2-2.5″ less than that of the hybrid (or typical Driving Iron) length, I thought I could hopefully get the best of both worlds (comparable distance but potentially better consistency/accuracy/shot control due to the shorter length)?

    I can’t see making this any longer than 38.5″ as even with my thicker jumbo grip option anything longer would make it really tough to keep under a D3.

    Also, I do tend to prefer the look of an iron (vs a hybrid) at address, so that would be another benefit as well. Am I just wishing this to be a valid option for me?

    As always, thanks SO MUCH for your help and support TOM!

    Jake 🙂

    • JAKE

      Thanks so much for your kind words of greeting – thanks very much ! The problem with trying to build a Sterling #4 iron to any length longer than 37″ will be the swingweight. All of the Sterling iron heads are designed to weigh 274g with the usual +/-3g tolerance. A typical 4 iron at 38.5″ length would have a spec headweight of 246g again with the usual +/-3g tolerance. There is no possible way the 4 iron could be built into a club of a length anywhere close to 38.5″ and still be reasonably swingable. The best bet for a club to have above the Sterling 5 iron for golfers with an iron clubhead speed under 85mph would be a hybrid of 21 to 22* made to a length not shorter than 38″ tp not longer than 39″ so the distance gap to the Sterling 5 iron can be suitable. Or if you prefer irons to use a different normal weight #4 iron head so you could build it 38.5″. And then you would test hit it against the 5 iron to determine what loft that conventional 4 iron needs to be to achieve a proper distance gap up from the 5 iron.

      TOM

    • Hey there TOM… THANK YOU for your reply and your feedback… it is GREATLY appreciated! 🙂

      I guess I was hoping (or maybe praying) that it would work out for me. A thought of too good to be true did pass through my mind, lol. Because of the extra (40g+) weight in the clubhead, I did worry about swingweight too.

      I was hoping a much lighter shaft (+ extra grip weightz) could help manipulate the SW a bit. I use an older 114g graphite shaft (Matrix Ozik Program 130 S+ Flex) for my 4I-LW Sterlings (just over D1 using with a weight plug and 105-107g grip setup). For my proposed 17 degree 4I Driving Iron setup, I was thinking about using a 95g Program 95 or even a 80-85g Program F15 shaft. With some crude calculations I was thinking/hoping I could get: 38.5″ D1 (40″ 95g shaft); or a 39″ D2.5 (40″ 80g shaft) *both using a 277g head/ferrule/epoxy average setup, and 107g grip, and tipped to S+ as well.

      But, even if these possible setups get me to those swingweights, are you thinking that the overall weight of the club will just become an issue for me and should not be tried?

      I’m not sure why I keep (mentally) pushing for this Driving Iron setup with the Sterling 4I. I finally got a hold of an awesome 775HS #2 as well as a great looking 590DIH #2 setup. I just REALLY, REALLY, REALLY LOVE the feel (and ting sound) of my HI-COR Sterlings and was hoping to make this work as well.

      I may just be a little too stubborn (backed with a bit too much OCD) to wake me up 🙁

      Thanks again TOM,

      Jake 🙂

    • JAKE

      Let me try to help by explaining the relationships between swingweight and head weight, shaft weight and length. Then you’ll have a better idea why this is not going to be possible. The Sterling Iron single length head weights are all 274g. The 775-2 hybrid is 232g. To make that 2 hybrid at the same length as the Sterling Irons you’d need to add 42g to the head. That just can’t be done. 2 grams of head weight is 1 swingweight point so if you made the 2 hybrid the same length as the sterling irons with the same shaft, the swingweight would be some 21 points lighter – like D0 vs A9. You would not feel the head if you did that.

      In changing shafts in a club, you typically drop 1 swingweight point for each 8 grams of shaft weight you drop. For each inch you make a club longer the swingweight increases by 6 points. So even if you used a 40 gram iron shaft in the Sterling #4 iron head when trying to make the iron longer at say 38″, you would not get close to what you want. The move up from 36.5 to 38″ would push the swingweight up 9 points. To offset that you would need a shaft that weighed some 72 grams less and that is not going to happen.

      There is just no way you can make the Sterling 4 iron that long nor any way you can make the 775-2 hybrid that short, given their existing spec headweights. Sorry about that but you’d need separate heads custom made to specific different weights and that can’t happen either. (Unless you want to pay $5000 for the new production die and commit to a minumum order of 200 heads to satisfy the production foundry’s requirements !!!)
      TOM

    • Thanks SO MUCH for your detailed explanation TOM. I do admit I did have to read it (3) times to get everything to penetrate my thick skull, haha.

      With everything you’ve said, I guess I’ll update my 2019 bag setup with the 3W/4W 950HC and 775HS #2 to go along with my 919thi Driver and 4W-SW Sterlings.

      I am bummed that the 4I couldn’t work as a Driving Iron alternative… I guess I just never thought you could EVER give me bad news TOM, lol.

      Thanks again for all your valued support!

      Jake 🙂

    • JAKE

      Thanks for your understanding. I guess I think of it as truthful information before I accept that it could be bad information !!

      TOM ;>)

  3. Hi Tom,
    I have 13deg 919THI 43″” and Sterlings 4i-GW 37″” long.
    From what i can see from your catalogue, to bridge the gap between 13 and 19 degree’s there is – 16.5 950-4 HC FW, 16.5 929-4 HS FW, 16.5 356-4 PF FW and 16 730-1 CL. What would you suggest would be the best fit between and what length should it be?
    thanks rob.

    • ROB:

      Keep in mind that loft is not the only thing you need to be considering to find a club or clubs that fit into the gap between your Sterling #4 iron at 37″ and the 919-13 driver. You most likely could use a 18* to 19* loft fairway wood and make it 40 to 41″ and it would generate enough distance over the #4 iron because its length would be considerably longer which would be generating more clubhead speed to give you enough distance gap up from the #4 iron ar 37″. Then if you did that you could think about the other wood being 16* at 1″ longer than whatever you make this 18-19* wood to be.

      TOM

  4. Hey Tom, I´m looking for an honest opinion about a possible fitting from your brand.

    I´m following this site for quite some time now (I also posted a question about the Sterlings some time ago) and since then I´m really impressed with your thorough answers here. Possibly the best customer service I´ve seen for a long time.

    I´m thinking about a complete fitting (Driver, 3 Wood, 3-9 Iron, PW, GW, SW, LW) with Mike McFadden here in Germany sometime next year. You spoke in the highest terms about him and I heard good things from several other sources, too.

    Problem is… I´m a lefty. I know about and understand your 8% threshold for left handed clubs, so no Sterling 4-iron, LW and so on. Which of course is completely reasonable and understandable, especially for a smaller brand.

    The question is: With limited options in left handed clubs from your brand: Should I still get fitted with your clubs from Mike McFadden or would it be more reasonable to move to another fitter (with the more mainstream brands with more left handed options)?

    A complete fitting is not a small investment for me and if I´m going to do it it should be the best possible solution and decision for the next 5 years plus.

    I´d really like to reward your customer service here and I also heard nothing but good things about you. From pretty much everyone on the internet, especially those who know a thing or two about golf and golf clubs. But of course it also has to be the best decision for me and my future golf “career”.

    I´m also not so sure how a combination of left handed Sterling 5-GW with a different (and different length) 4 and 3 iron attached to the longer and a different SW and LW attached to the shorter end would look like and if it even makes sense.

    Possibly important additional info:
    I´m not a hybrid fan. The only woods will be the Driver and the 3 Wood. But it´s important that my longest iron will still go at least 220 yards (200 meters and above, like my 4 iron does now), so that I don´t have to use the Driver and 3 Wood very often. 200 yards wouldn´t be enough with a new 3 or 4 iron. I´d be forced to hit 3 Wood or Driver too often.

    Age 35, playing since 2013
    Hcp: 5,2
    Solid classic “swing fundamentals”, looks quite good, no monumental changes planned
    Goal: Get down to Hcp 1-3 in the next years
    Driver Speed: 103-110 mph
    Normal body proportions, nothing weird
    Current Irons: 2013 Taylormade Rocketbladez, 3-SW, unfitted
    LW: 60 degree Cleveland from 2014, unfitted
    Driver: Taylormade RBZ Stage 2 from 2015 or so, unfitted
    Everything in steel, stiff and standard length

    Keep inspiring!
    Peter

    • PETER

      Thanks so much for taking your time to develop an interest in what we try to do within the world of golf clubs. I appreciate that very much and am so pleased that our actions and work has impressed you. That’s a nice feeling for us to have and thank you for that.

      Seriously, I would rather you be fit by Mike in whatever brand and model works the best for you that may not be any of my designs than to have you go to a lesser fitter for any models of clubs. I’ll be the first to tell you that the fit is more important than the brand. Sure, I know my models are good, but so are a lot of other companies’ offerings. TO pass on having Mike fit you would be a mistake because fitters of his level, knowledge and experience are quite rare in the game today.

      I am sure like most clubmakers Mike can fit you into whatever brand and model of clubs that you are attracted to that are available in left hand. The best thing I can tell you is to call Mike and talk to him about this. Be right upfront about it. Tell him that you realize my left hand options are limited and ask him if he would fit you in a set of some other brand and model so you can get exactly what you want in the model but still have it fit by someone as good as him.

      Hope this helps,
      TOM

  5. An update on the SW and LW:

    I’ve played Sterlings for 2 years now and have never looked back. I’m thrilled with the single-length concept, and yes, that includes longer high-lofted irons and wedges. But I struggled with the SW and LW. Not for full- and partial-length swings, and not even when gripping down for certain shots. But I still struggle with lobs and pitches.

    The length of these clubs makes them lie pretty flat. That means one needs to stand a bit farther from the ball than one normally would for a traditional sand shot or lob. Gripping down a bit helps and doesn’t change the lie too much. However, doing that AND opening the clubface really brings the toe into play. Again, standing farther back helps, but feels odd.

    I went back to my traditional SW and LW for a while, but I’d really prefer to play the Sterlings. (I posted earlier in the year about this issue.) I like taking full swings with these clubs because they feel exactly the same as the rest of the set (naturally), but I’m concerned about this trade-off when I need to open the clubface. Any thoughts?

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