Sterling Irons® Single Length Set

Sterling-Irons-setSterling Irons® Single Length Set

A Unique Set Design to be Built to One Length for all Clubs to Deliver a Perfect Match of all Elements of Swing Feel for shot consistency.


  • If you are interested in the Sterling Irons® single length clubs please use the Find a Clubfitter form to find and contact a clubfitter near you, or visit
  • Single length construction ensures all possible elements of swing feel are identical for each club in the set – same MOI, same total weight, same headweight, same balance point – to offer the chance for improved shot consistency
  • Identical length and lie allow the golfer to use the same stance, same posture, same swing plane forimproved shot consistency
  • Optional high COR #5 hybrid with high COR #4, 5, 6, and 7 irons offer proper distance for the low loft clubs at the shorter single length. Other single length sets may lose distance with the low loft clubs
  • Conventional cast carbon steel in the #8 to gap wedge with 5* loft increments blend with the high COR design of the low loft clubheads to off er proper distance gaps and proper
    distance with the high loft clubs. Other single length sets may generate too much distance with the high loft clubs
  • Available in a #5 hybrid or #5 iron to match the player’s desire and ability, with #6 to 9, PW and Gap Wedge and Sand Wedge
  • Sterling Irons® Single Length clubs can be built to 36.5”, 36.75 or 37” length for each club as fit by the Clubmaker for the golfer’s comfort and preference. Contrasts with most other single length sets being created for a 37.5” length – which can generate too much distance with the high loft irons
  • Intended to be custom fit with any Wishon Golf S2S iron shaft model and flex to meet the swing speed, transition/tempo and release point of the golfer.
  • Sterling Irons® hybrid uses standard iron shaft (.370)
  • The #4 iron should only be used by golfers with a #5 iron clubhead speed of 85mph or higher to be able to make the club generate the proper trajectory and height to be able to carry the ball further than the #5 iron
  • Available in RH (#5 Hybrid, 4-9, PW, GW, SW) & LH (5-SW); New Blade Wedges (LW, SW) available in RH only

For complete information on the technical benefits of single length set construction, we offer this complete Q&A about single length iron set technology.

Tom talks about the Sterling Irons® Single Length Set

Ratings and Reviews

VN:F [1.9.22_1171]
Rating: 3.8/5 (786 votes cast)

Sterling Irons® Single Length Set, 3.8 out of 5 based on 786 ratings


  1. Tom:

    Slightly different question, but I don’t know where else to turn.

    I play the Sterlings (4I – SW currently) at 36.5″, steel stiff shaft, and at a D2 static swing weight. When I first put the Sterlings in play, I found myself holding the club at the very end–to the point where the butt was in my palm. I realized this when I destroyed a couple of high-quality gloves! Anyway, I realized this was due to the short length–it was a subconscious and unnecessary adjustment. Fixing that helped, but I’ve come to realize I get a better strike–and the same distance–by choking down 1/2″. The shorter shaft helps the quality of the strike while the counterweight factor of choking down seems to smooth my swing. So here’s the two parter:

    First, have I changed the effective swing weight (not the static)? I think I might have changed things to “feel” more like D0 or D1. Also, have I altered the lie angle much? I don’t seem to be having problems, but I wonder if I’ve made the club effectively more upright by a degree or so.

    Second, I’m asking because I might get this set re-shafted. Should I consider changing the set up to 36″ (which seems almost silly!), swing weight at D0, and altering the dynamic lie angle to fit? Or should I just continue with the current set up and leave well enough alone when/if I either re-shaft or get a new set?

    Or should I shut off my brain and just go play golf?

    • RICH

      I can tell you from several to many experiences like this that you are overthinking this to try to break down shortening up on the grip to re building golf clubs to different specs. The real reason you are hitting the ball more consistently solid is because you now have the club under greater hand control via the 1/2″ you are gripping down. The wear on your gloves from the cap of the grip tells you the club is not fully secure during the backswing and start of the downswing. It’s moving around and you are not detecting it but the grip down change is definitely allowing you to keep the club better on plane between the end of the backswing and beginning of the downswing. So as you said, appreciate that it is not a change in the club specs at the gripped down position but is rather simply having a better hold on the grip to keep the club from shifting around during the swing. . . and just go play !


  2. A Message To Tom

    Hello Tom, I’m messaging you because I’ve been on the fence like others on making the jump to Single Length Sterlings, I’ve grown to know your products through a long time client of mine (Mike Baker) who introduced me to your 979ss irons that I’ve played since 2013, irons have been great, I’ve tried others over the years and keep going back to the 979ss, purchased a full set of clubs for my girlfriend a few years back and have been really happy with results, I’ve done a lot of research on single length irons and out of all the questions I may have I suppose my main question would be when it comes to single length irons, what would you say about them would make me not want to step out and try them out?

    • You should definitely not try single length if you believe that golf is supposed to be as difficult as possible.

      But seriously, in my experience, people who are new to golf take to single length like fish to water, while experienced golfers with a deep investment in learning a conventional set sometimes give single length a brief try then give up as soon as they have a bad round. In one such case the irons in question were Cobras played by expert golfers, where the “short irons” are a bit too “game improvement” for my taste, but I have seen it happen with Sterlings too. Golfers are quick to revert to their comfort zone.
      Personally, I have that deep investment, but nevertheless came to love single length almost instantly. It took awhile for the wedges to settle in and for me to completely eliminate the feeling that “I am holding a 5 iron, I need to setup and swing differently”. Once I got over that hump, the thought of needing different setups and swings for different irons became abhorrent. I played with a conventional set a few months ago when I was away on a trip, and it drove me crazy. I was skulling the wedges and chunking the long irons.

      If the Mike Baker in question lives in the Houston area, tell him Mitch Bradly said hi, and ask him about Honu Putters.

    • CHRIS

      Many thanks for stopping by to ask a few questions about single length irons. Always happy to help with pros and cons so you can make your own decision for what you feel is best for you and your game.

      First off, any player who has even a shred of hesitation in which he is a little worried or apprehensive about making such a change probably shouldn’t take the leap. Or the player should invest in at least a 6 iron and PW to hit for a while to see how they compare in distance to what he is used to and whether any other differences to his regular length 6/PW pop up that may stick in the craw. Second, unless you have a 7 iron clubhead speed of 85mph or higher you probably will have to accept the fact that your set of single length irons would include one less iron than your set of conventional length irons. The reason is because of the lower clubhead speed you will have with the lowest loft iron in your conventional set. Let me explain. Let’s say you have a conventional set that is from the 4 iron down to the wedges. That 4 iron will probably be around 38.5″ long and the 5 iron ar 38″. If you went with a Sterling iron set at an 8 iron length of 36.5 or even a 7 iron length of 37, you’d swing all the single length irons about 4 to 6mph slower than you swing the 4 iron and 5 iron.

      Also, considering the 979 irons, the 4 iron is probably around 23* loft since that was the spec and the 5 iron is 26*. The Sterling 5 iron is 23* with a high COR face which is one big way that I made up for some of the possible distance loss that could come from the single length set being shorter by 1 to 1.5″ than a normal 5 iron. And the Sterling 4 iron is then 19* also with a high COR face. That’s a good news, bad news situation depending on your clubhead speed. If you do have a 7 iron speed of 85 or higher, no problem whatsoever because that much speed can hit a 19* loft iron of 36.5″ length far enough to make it carry the same or a actually longer than a 38.5″ #4 iron with 23* loft. If the 7 iron clubhead speed is under 80mph, that won’t generate enough ball speed to allow the 4 iron with its 19* loft to be hit high enough to stay in the air to carry a full normal distance.

      So choosing what will be the lowest loft iron in a single length set is super important and is all about clubhead speed. If you have a 75-80mph clubhead speed you can probably hit the 979-4 iron high enough to get a full club more carry distance over the 979-5 iron because the 4 iron is 38.5″ and it has 23* loft. But with a 75-80mph speed, you won’t be able to hit the Sterling 4 iron high enough to get it to stay in the air to carry a full club longer than the Sterling 5 iron. And that’s why I say for most golfers, when they go with a single length set at an 8 or 7 iron length, they will have one less iron and one more hybrid to cover that. If you’re totally ok with having another hybrid in the bag, then the single length will work fine. But if there is something about not having a 4 iron in the set that bothers you, then it will stick with you and probably get in the way of working well with the single length set.

      That’s about it. Personally I see the single length irons as being a little better for the player who is 12hdcp and higher than the player who is single digits. The reason is because the single digit player is already pretty consistent with the irons so there might not be all that much of an improvement that he would notice from going to single length in shot consistency. Next, the single digit is typically very used to specific shot distances and distance gaps between irons. If ANYTHING changes in that even by a few yards, the player is not likely to take kindly to that and will then form a negative opinion about single length. Whereas with the low double digit and higher handicap player, he does miss iron shots more often and he is inconsistent enough that carry distances and gaps vary by 5-6-7 yards from shot to shot. Thus for this type of player single length can step in to show a more visible and worthwhile change in shot consistency.

      Hope this helps, and thanks again for your interest,

  3. Tom:

    I’ve posted quite a few times over the past 2-and-a-half years that I’ve played the Sterlings. Some feedback and a question.

    I’ll never go back to variable-length irons. I had a very new set of Ping irons when I got the Sterlings and I have never hit them since. (They performed well as trade-ins for my wife’s clubs!)

    I’m currently playing 4-iron through lob wedge. When I first put them in the bag, I stopped at the GW. I struggled with the GW until I realized it had a lower bounce that my Pings–in fact, all the irons were that way. This caused me to pay attention to my angle of attack, returning me to a more aggressive downswing and great results through the set. Thanks, gap wedge!

    I then put the redesigned SW and LW in the bag. I went back and forth for awhile on these. I liked the SW right away, but struggled with the LW. Loved it from the fairway, but it was hard to get used to around the greens. But I finally settled in and now I’m fine with them. I’ve gotten used to the flatter swing and they perform well. And on the other end, I’m still seeing a good gap between the 4-iron and 5-iron.

    But here’s my question. I’m turning 60 this year (gasp!) and I’m wondering about any benefits to going with graphite shafts. I’m thinking in terms of lighter weights and less vibration. But I’m concerned about making them work in the Sterlings. I don’t want to go longer–I like the 36.5″ set up. Besides, going longer means I’ll need to bend the irons flatter to accommodate the length. But I’m also worried about swing weight. I have them set up for D2–which over the years has proven to be right for me. (I’ve tried everything from D5 to C9–those with Boccieri counter-weighted grips.) D2 is my number. But what effect will the lighter graphite shafts have? (My steel shafts are 105g.) Will they be effective at 36.5″? Will I have to add weight to the heads to get the swing weight right?


    • Why guess? Buy one and see if you like it. With Sterlings, if you like one you will like them all. Get the one that you use the most, i.e the one with the most wear. Then if you don’t like it, you can swap the head onto your old shaft and rejuvenate that club.

    • RICH

      Thanks so much for taking the time to stop back in and share your thoughts and experiences with the Sterling Irons. I’ve always read your posts with interest because you have offered some real insights to the experience of changing from incremental to single length which are valuable to us as feedback as well as to other golfers who might be searching for more info about single length irons.

      There is no question a change to light weight graphite from heavier weight steel in ANY set of irons is going to require a change in head weight to get the irons to a point where you feel the presence of the heads enough during the swing to have the same type of proper timing and rhythm to make your swing tempo work toward proper shot consistency. Pretty much 99.9% of the time when you go to lighter graphite you have to add weight to the heads to find that best head weight feel for your swing tempo and timing.

      You did not say if you had to put in the hosel weight bore to get to whatever swingweight you have now. If there are weights installed into the weight bores, they will need to be removed as a part of the process in re shafting the irons with graphite so you essentially start the graphite shaft build from scratch to make it end up what you need it to be for your best tempo and timing. Typically the brass weights can be drilled out/destroyed as long as you have a good drill press and a fixture to clamp the heads by their hosels for the drill press to do its thing. If any of the heads have tungsten weights in the hosel, hopefully they were installed with the slotted head end up!! In that case you’d torch heat the base of the hosel to loosen the epoxy holding the weight in the weight bore. After about 30-40 secs of direct flame heat you take a sharp pointed object to dig out the epoxy that is on top of the weight and probably in the slot on the top of the weight as well so the screwdriver can get in there to do its thing. You insert the flat head screwdriver and gradually apply force to see if the weight begins to turn. If not, use more heat. Eventually you’ll get the weight loose and then you slam the top of the hosel on a wood bench top or wood block and the weight comes out. Can take a few back and forths of heating, twisting, banging but you should be able to get it out.

      Once you have the heads clean, the best way to test for what you need with the graphite shaft weighting is to take one head, probably the 6-7 iron, and shaft it up with the shaft of choice and install the grip. No weight in the hosel yet cuz this is a test iron. Use lead tape on the head a little at a time to hit shots, reflect on the head feel and your tempo, add weight, hit shots, reflect on the feel, etc until you get to that point you feel you like the weight feel of the head and you’re not too quick with your tempo. Once you find that you measure the swingweight and then duplicate that with weights in the weight bore as you build the irons for good.

      Hope this helps, and thanks again so much for your interest and your support !

    • I’ve been playing the sterlings for 2 years. Ran into some of the same things you mentioned. Still dont love the GW because the sharp leading edge and not much bounce so I use it only on full swings not around the greens which is a bummer. Also the LW i think could use more bounce too but I like the new sw and lw shape alot. I never understood why irons get less bounce as the loft decreases maybe Tom could shed some light on that?

      But I’m a higher swing speed player (*92 mph 8 iron, 122 driver) and I actually play the S2S black graphite shaft tipped an extra inch. I grew up playing a 90 gram iron shaft and the S2S is the closest in weight in the wishon line. I took a gamble and turned out I absolutely love the graphite! The vibration dampening is awesome and they honestly feel more solid at impact than a lot of steel shafts ive played. Id definitely give them a try! Mine swingweight at d2 and I play them at 37 so you’ll probably need to add a little weight if you want them 36.5″ Maybe but one graphite shaft and test it in your 8 iron before switching everything.

  4. Hi Tom, not sure how often you check this, but I was wondering what the BBTG of these clubheads is?

    • AARON
      BBTG is something you only have to check once because it can only vary by +/-1/25 inch (+/-1mm). It is 1.5″ which is what I try to do for BBTG on every iron I ever design. That way if anyone wants to use the same shafts in any of my iron designs, the shafts end up exactly the same in each iron model.


    • Thank you for your reply Tom!

  5. Tom
    I added a large 100g JumboMax grip to a driver. Spin increase from 2-2.5k to 3-3.5k. Does it make sense that spin would increase from that alone. Would adding weight to head offset heavier weight in grip. Thx

    • PAT:
      No, the grip just on its own would not have anything to do with the spin results. Most likely this came from the effect that heavy of a grip has on the balance point and the total weight of the club and then how your swing reacts to that big change. With the most likely thing being that somehow the bal pt movement and or total weight increase are causing you to release the club slightly early which is causing the head to come into impact with a little bit higher dynamic loft than before. Adding weight to the head will lower the bal pt back down but it will continue to increase the total weight even higher which may not be all that good. Also adding weight to the head will cause the shaft to bend more on the downswing which could actually have a chance of resulting in even more spin from an even higher dynamic loft at impact.


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *