S2S White Wood & Iron Shafts

S2S White Graphite Shafts for Woods and Irons

The S2S Fitting System Design for the Widest Range of Golfers with Average Swing Characteristics


  • S2S White is Wishon Golf’s most popular shaft for golfers with average swing characteristics: ideal for golfers with smooth to average tempo and average strength

  • S2S White retains its popular bend profile design for average golfers but is now designed with a slightly stiffer lower tip section to offer more control through impact for tighter dispersion


  • S2S Shaft Trim Charts



Ratings and Reviews

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Rating: 4.2/5 (53 votes cast)


S2S White Wood & Iron Shafts, 4.2 out of 5 based on 53 ratings


  1. Tom thanks you for your reply. I have these discussions with people that own golf shops and consumers that think because they are spending 200 to 300 dollars for this premium shaft that they are getting the “perfect” shaft. I am so happy that u=you addressed this. I think the golf IQ needs this info and I can’t think of anyone better than you to explain it.

    • ROGER

      Well, it is actually very simple, but the power of marketing is so strong that no matter what, people are always going to believe that if it costs more, it has to be better. There are 4 things only that determine how any shaft will play for any golfer – shaft weight, the bend profile stiffness design over the whole length of the shaft from butt to tip, the torsional stiffness AKA the “torque”, and the weight distribution of the shaft which is other wise called the balance point. That’s it. Nothing else they talk about in a shaft has any other separate effect on performance. Just these 4 things. With our bend profile software, it is easily possible to select any of the high dollar shafts and then find an exact duplicate from other companies that costs a fraction and show the measurement numbers of the high dollar and lower cost shafts side by side to prove this. But no matter what, I have seen many times that I can show a golfer this information and he still will believe the expensive one is better. Probably because he does not want to be made to feel like a complete fool for having spent $300 on a shaft.


  2. I’m beginning to think that Mr. Wishon’s shafts are among the most underappreciated products he designs. With today’s adjustable drivers and adapters it’s so easy to experiment with shafts, but not very affordable for those with modest means. The S2S shafts (with their modest price), are an exception.

    I ordered an S2S white shaft to try in a Cobra Fly Z driver, and it has been far and away the best shaft I’ve experimented with and is the one I will use from here on out.

  3. Tom some of the quote “premium shaft makers” talk about how their shafts are better for the adjustable or rotating driver heads. Can you speak to whether the placement of the shaft in the adjustable drivers has anything to do with the performance of the finished product? They will say that their shafts are not affected by the spine of the shaft and that their product is better for adjustable driver heads because the “spine affect” doesn’t bother their shafts. This seems like spin( no pun intended) but maybe you can clarify this subject. Thanks

    • ROGER
      It will probably never cease to amaze me how some companies can make up stories to verify a quality matter with their product. They can do this because 99.9% of the people they talk to/communicate with do not have a shred of technical experience to challenge them with factual information. The ONLY way that any shaft company could make a shaft so that no matter what the rotation position in the head it would never demonstrate any form of bending asymmetry is if they spent 2 or 3x as much money in the production of the shafts to painstakingly try to eliminate bending asymmetry so the shafts always had the same exact bending property no matter how you installed the shaft in the sleeve or head.

      And even that is purely theoretical. In practice no company has ever made shafts that do not have some variation in asymmetry of the bending of the shafts. You do have companies that will check every shaft in production to find a stable plane of bending or the most stable plane of bending. We do that on our S2S graphite shafts and it can be seen by the red and white lines drawn on the butt end of every one of our shafts to guide the logo position and installation.

      But once you take any shaft today and start to rotate it in the head, whether by use in a adjustable hosel sleeve or what, you do change the orientation of the different bending planes of the shaft.

      Now, all that being said, much of this matter of shaft asymmetry today is overblown and insignificant to performance. The better shaft companies today know that shafts will suffer from degrees of bending asymmetry so they do like we do and check bending planes of all shafts before painting to find a stable plane that they mark and set up their finishing so when a person installs the shaft with the logo up or logo down, the stable plane is at the target. And 98 out of 100 times today with the better shaft companies, if you did rotate the shaft to some other position, it would be highly unlikely that the slight asymmetrical bending plane that might be revealed could ever cause bad shots. It’s remotely possible, but unlikely because most of the good shaft makers do know this and do take steps in production to keep these asymmetry variations at a minimum.


    • Hi Tom,

      I know (from this thread) that the red and white lines indicate the stability plane, but I don’t know which line is which, and haven’t been able to find the info after quite a bit of searching.

      My guess would be that the white line is on the stable plane and the red is orthogonal, but I’m just guessing.

      Could you please clue me in on the correct installation of the shaft relative to those marks? If you have already addressed the question, a pointer to the answer would suffice.


    • Mitch
      It’s easy to remember what’s what with the red and white lines on the butt of our graphite shafts. The WHITE line is the most stable plane of bending. The read line is 90* away from that to tell the painting department where to place the shaft name/logo pad printing artwork. What you want is the white line plane either pointing toward or away from the target, does not matter which, so the artwork is straight up or straight down, as per which side you want to show on the top of the shaft when the club is built.

    • Thanks!

      Before I was aware of the lines, I always built with artwork down, so it appears that it got it right by accident. Thanks for the attention to detail that is so evident in all your products.

  4. Tom, I’ve been experimenting with shaft flex for my 929HS 5 wood. Right now I have the white S-flex tip trimmed 1″; length is 41″. That combo is close to what I want in feel. It may be a tad soft (maybe). I was wondering if I was to try the white R-Flex shaft and trim it between R and S if that may be better. What would the tip trim need to be for the R flex shaft to be between R and S for the 41″ length? My driver SP average is 92-95. I noticed in one of your posts that you went to R flex trimmed between R and S for a 7wd. Could you please explain what would determine whether to use S flex trimmed less or R flex trimmed more? I really appreciate and thank you for you time.

    • ORAN

      Technically, to be halfway in between the R and S with the White graphite wood shaft, you would first tip 1.25″ from the R. Then since you seem to like the lesser 1″ tip trim for your 5 wood (2″ is normal) for its 41″ length, you could then do 1.25″ + 1″ for a total of 2.25″ to get halfway between R and S for the 5 wood. Whether you go S and less trim or R and more trim only is determined by the length of the parallel tip section on the shaft. That’s 3.5″on all our wood shafts, and you have to have 30mm for bore depth insertion (1 3/16″). So a tip of 2.25″ gets close to using up all the parallel tip section. if you go much more than that, the hosel bore would have to be reamed a little bit to allow the shaft to penetrate all the way to the bottom of the bore.


  5. Tom after a few years out of the club making business, my interest has heated up and I’ve again become a customer. I was lured into the idea of the longer driver, and after a few years of erratic driving came back to my roots. I’ve read all your books and find your science compelling.

    Using your White heavy, which I can’t believe is only $24, while most OEM shafts of decent quality are $150+ I re-shated my driver back to 44.25 inches, and yesterday hit the ball more consistently, father, and with more control than I have in three years.

    What a great shaft for the price a real bargain. I could move the ball left, and right at will and swing as hard as I want all with predictable results. Great product at a great price.

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