S2S Shaft Trimming Chart

TWGT S2S Shaft Trimming Charts

The following charts show the standard trimming and installation instructions for all of the TWGT S2S Shaft Fitting System shafts. These charts simply indicate the normal trimming and installation procedures for each shaft and may be altered by the clubmaker for custom shaft fitting and installation purposes for each golfer.

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Shaft Trimming for Woods





Shaft Trimming for Iron, Hybrid and Wedge Shafts



TWGT 730CL Assembly & Ruby Lite Shaft Trimming



  1. Just found in my garage a couple of boxes of spanking brand new sets of irons club heads I never got around to using…Dynacraft Vari-Steel (1-SW), and Dynacraft Dyna-Torque Semi-Thru-Bore (2-SW). Packing slip says I bought from Dynacraft June 1993. I’ve saved enough money to buy shafts now and want to glue clubs up so I can use them.

    Can’t find trimming instructions that came with the order. The Dyna-Torque “bore thru” shorter hosel hole is about 3/8″ deeper than regular Vari-Steel hosel. Should I just trim 3/8″ less off tip of shafts for Dyna_Torque club heads than Vari-Steels using same shafts to get shafts performing about same? Please let me know how I should best tip trim the Dyna-Torques. Thank you!


      How about that, finding those sets untouched after all these years. I do remember the Vari Steel irons quite clearly but I am not nearly as coherent on the Dyna Torque iron design. It’s what comes after 31 yrs of designing heads and about 350 different design models during that time !! At any rate, the tip trim instructions for ANY iron model are always based on the distance from the bottom of the shafting bore, or rather where the shaft tip stops in the hosel, to the ground or flat surface upon which the head sits. A standard for bottom of bore to ground dimension to relate to normal tip trims for iron shafts is 1.5″. So if you can measure how far it is from where the shaft tip stops inside the hosel to the top of a table that you place the head on, that gives you the starting point. If it is 1.5″, then you trip trim as per normal for what the shaft maker says for standard tip trim for their shaft model. If it is less than 1.5″, then you SUBTRACT the difference from the BBTG to 1.5″ and take that off the normal tip trim for each iron number. If the BBTG is more than 1.5″, then you ADD that difference from 1.5″ to the tip trim for each iron number.

      Hope this helps,

  2. Hi,
    I have a 959 driver that is the BEST and will never change! I want to know how similar the 919THI is? What are the design differences?
    The shaft in my driver is a Graphite design Reg shaft and has 16 gr tour lock weights in my grips and for me it made a huge improvement for me. The driver was built originally D 2. What does adding 16 gr to the butt do to the swing weight?

    • GUY
      The 959 was one of the driver heads I designed in the past to INTENTIONALLY be over the USGA limit for the COR of the face. I designed this for golfers who strictly played for fun and never to be used in any official competition. We did state this very clearly in the catalog and on our website presentations for this model. We do take the rules seriously but we also see that there are golfers who only wish to play for fun and not in any competition. So that was why I had designed the 959. However, in time, we began to get more than a few very negative emails that accused me of “harboring cheating in the game” by creating and offering such over the limit driver heads for sale. So when the hate emails got steady, I just pulled the plug on the model so the negatives would stop.

      The use of a counterweight in the grip end of any club will drop the swingweight at a rate of 1 swingweight point reduction for each 4 grams put into the very grip end of the club. But the more important effect of a cwt on performance tends to come from the effect on the club’s balance point being shifted more up away from the head and closer to the grip COMBINED WITH what the cwt does to increase the total weight of the club at the same time. It’s not really the single fact that the swingweight was lowered that accounts for the performance. It’s the combination of bal pt change + total weight increase and how that better fits your strength + your swing tempo + your swing rhythm.


  3. I am 6ft 3 inches tall with average strength / medium swing speed and am looking at a second hand set of Sterling single length irons 36.5 inches Reg flex S2S blue shafts. Do you think these could suit me?

    • DON

      More than your height, your measurement of the distance from the wrist to the floor of your left hand (upper hand on the grip) is more of the indicator for when we would fit someone with a single length that would be greater than 36.5″. In general if the W to F measurement is 36″ or more, it would be better to move the golfer into a single length of 37″. If that W to F is over 38″, then it gets to the point the single length should be approaching 37.5″ for the golfer to be comfortable setting up over the ball with the irons. If you measure your own W to F, be very careful to do it this way so you get a proper, accurate measurement upon which iron length decisions can be made:

      Wear flat sole shoes like tennis shoes and stand on a hard surface floor like tile/concrete. Stand comfortably erect, shoulders perfectly level, arms hanging relaxed at the sides. Do not let your chin drop into your chest. Measurement is then from the major wrist crease at the base of the palm of the hand that is your upper hand on the grip. Usually best to have a 2nd person do the measurement so you can maintain this proper position.

      The Blue iron shaft is a VERY light weight shaft at only 55 grams. It is typically for golfers who are weaker physically and who would not do well with a heavier total weight for the irons. Golfers with a very smooth, rhythmic tempo who are a “swinger” and not a “hitter” in terms of swing tempo do better with the BLue 55 iron shaft. So at 6’3 if you are reasonably strong, if you have a somewhat aggressive move at the ball, then you probably would not want to be playing the Blue shaft in the irons.

      Hope this helps, and thanks for your interest,

  4. Hi Tom, if I cut my driver shaft at the butt to make it play 43.5 inches, how will the flex be affected. It’s a taylormade m2 driver with a graphite design ad di 6 x shaft. The driver currently is 45 inches. Thanks,

    • MEL:
      If you cut from 45 to 43.5″ AND IF YOU RESTORE THE SWINGWEIGHT TO WHAT IT WAS BEFORE THE CUT, then the effect on the shaft will be minimal to hardly noticeable. This is because the increase in stiffness that comes from cutting it shorter is then offset by the presence of more headweight to elicit a bending influence on the shaft during the swing. If you cannot or do not restore the swingweight after the cut, then the shaft will play a little stiffer but the main thing you would notice if you skipped the swingweight re adjustment would not be the shaft stiffness, but it would be a complete lack of head weight feel during the swing that most likely would cause you real problems with your tempo and timing and ability to hit the ball on center. So the bottom line is even if you have to slap 18 grams of lead tape all over the head to restore the swingweight, you better do it or else this change in length will be a disaster.

    • Hello Tom.im looking at building a driver at 43.5..Can I use a three wood shaft because it plays that length when installed in driver..How will the flex and swing weight perform.and can I put a 5 wood shaft in my three wood to play at 42.5..

    • COLIN

      In a set of woods made with the same shaft model and flex, the shaft in the driver is installed with 0 tip trim, the shaft in the 3w is installed with 1″ tip trim and the shaft in the 5 wood is installed with 2″ cut from the tip before installation. Then for all woods, after installation the shaft is cut from the grip end to achieve the desired playing length for each wood. Whenever you cut the tip of the shaft, you are increasing its stiffness. The reason shafts are tip trimmed for the 3w and 5w and not for the driver is because the 3w head is usually 10 grams heavier than the driver and the 5w head is 20 grams heavier than the driver. The 3w and 5w heads have to be heavier so that at their shorter lengths, they can end up at the same swingweight as the driver and as each other. More headweight puts more of a bending force on a shaft. So the additional tip trim done on the shafts for a 3w and 5w is done to offset this increased bending effect from the heavier headweight so in the end, all shafts feel like they are at the same stiffness.

      If you put the 3w shaft into the driver and put the 5w shaft into the 3w, two things will happen that are not necessarily good for performance. One, you will have made the driver and 3w a half a flex stiffer than they were supposed to be for a standard installation of that shaft. If you have felt in the past that your driver and 3w with their original shafts felt and swung too flexible for your swing and sense of feel, then having them both be stiffer might not be a bad thing. But if you have felt that your driver and 3w with their original shafts did not feel too flexible, then putting the 3w shaft in the driver and 5w shaft in the 3w would make both clubs play too stiff for you and your swing.

      Two, your 3w and 5w shafts have already been cut from the grip end to establish the playing length for both of these woods. The 3w is usually a lot shorter in playing length than the driver. The 5w is usually an inch shorter than the playing length of the 3w. Now it is possible in putting the 3w shaft into the driver that it could end up being not that much shorter than what the driver should be or was because most all driver heads have a greater distance from the bottom of the shaft bore to the ground than to most all 3w heads. but no question that if you put the 5w shaft into the 3w, it will end up shorter than what the 3w was before.

      Now maybe your idea of doing all this is to end up with a shorter playing driver and 3w for control improvement. If so, then the way to go about having a shorter driver and 3w is to just leave the shafts in them and cut them both shorter in length from the grip end of the shaft. Then because the shortening of length will have lowered the swingweight by 3 swt points for each half inch cut shorter, if you add weight back to the heads to restore the swingweight to what it was before the cuts, that head weight increase to get back to the original swingweight will make the shafts play to the right stiffness after they are cut shorter.

      Hope this helps,

    • Thanks Tom..I have my driver playing at 43.5 now and my 3 wood and hybrid perfect length.The reason I went to this length was to hit the middle of club all the time.and the switch has been a great help for my game.now I’m still having the odd drive that hits the toe or heel..So I experimented with lead tape in different locations on shaft.tried on driver and woods.when I put 50grams of lead tape just below bottom of grip on the shaft it felt great and everything about my swing improved.I can’t leave this tape on because it’s off-putting on the shaft.Is there any other way I can get club to play like this without tape on shaft. colin

    • COLIN
      There are specially made counterweights that are designed to lock into the grip end of the shaft. Here is a link to show you what I mean – https://www.golfworks.com/tour-lock-pro-weights/p/TL0001/?gclid=CI7Qz9jIl9ICFcW1wAodSw0IYw . This type of counterweight also has a special cutter tool available that fits into an electric hand drill to enable you to cut a proper size hole through the end of the grip so you can drop the weight into the end of the shaft and lock it in place. Or you can remove the grips, install the weight, and re install the grips over the top of the weight if you do not wish to cut a hole through the end of the grip.

      What is unknown is whether putting a 50g counter weight in the very end of the grip results in the same performance as having 50 grams of lead tape just below the end of the grip. There would be about 10-11″ difference between where the end of the counter weight lives in the end of the shaft vs the middle of the lead tape below the grip. Therefore I would recommend you do ONE club only with the 50g counterweight to see if that gives you the same results you have now, before you go do all the clubs.


  5. I’m building a 21 degree 3 hybrid with an s2s shaft at 38.5 inches to go with a set of sterling single length irons at 37 inches. I’m trying to get a normal distance gap between the sterling 23 degree 5 iron and the 21 degree hybrid. How much of the shaft would you tip trim if building at the 38.5 inch length and adding 18 grams to the head.

    • Kourt
      The normal most widely seen length people make the 21* hybrid in our line is 39″. So for it being -1/2″ shorter, that really won’t cause the shaft to be much stiffer. A tiny bit that only a really experienced feel sensitive player could notice. So I would tip trim the S2S hybrid shaft the same amount as for normal length. Then just be sure to do a good job of fitting/choosing the right swingweight for the golfer based on his tempo/transition force and sense of feel for the headweight vs his swing tempo/timing.

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